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Vibration at idle and while in park.

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Old Oct 10, 2001 | 01:20 PM
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manuel's Avatar
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From: Houston,TX,USA
Vibration at idle and while in park.

I already searched for this in the Thirdgen.org.

Recently my Firebird has been idling rough when it's warm. The RPM seems lower than usual,by a little bit. When i start the car it seems normal...then i put in reverse and it car starts shaking....I put it in drive and I slowly start moving and without pressing the gas...it shakes.

I have checked the timing and it's fine.

I already replaced the Throttle body gasket. Idle control valve,map,TPS, and engine coolent sensor.

could it be the engine mounts?the car virates when in idle only,but if i give it some gas it stops...then the RPM goes back to normal and starts vibrating.
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Old Oct 10, 2001 | 02:11 PM
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Please anyone?
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Old Oct 10, 2001 | 04:28 PM
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Man,What do i have to do to get some attention?
Please, I need your advise.
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Old Oct 10, 2001 | 05:06 PM
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well how many miles on on your car my car has 116000 and does the same thing, it turned out it was my transmission slowing the Engine down (Which only has about 50 miles on the engine) but there was somethin wrong with the tranny and it had to be replaced it felt like the whole car shook.
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Old Oct 10, 2001 | 05:32 PM
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Well,it has been a year,well...no exactly a year. 10/13/01 . since i had my Firbird. I had the tranny rebuild with a shift kit the right way from pro transsmission mech.with alot of history with the 700R4.

I have put 1200 miles on the car since the rebuild. I currently have 129K mile on the motor.It has a 305TBi with a TH-700R4,BTW.
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Old Oct 11, 2001 | 06:29 AM
  #6  
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From: Atlanta, GA, US of A
Car: 94 Z28
Engine: LT1 w/ headers, catback, CAI, tune
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23s
Check your plug wires. When I had my crappy Accel 300+ "race wires" I would develop a problem similar to what you describe as a wire cracked/burned. If you've got a cracked or just slightly burned wire it could easily cause a rough idle.

------------------
Ray87Z
-Vortec headed 350.
86 IROC w/ a cammed 305 TPI.
Formerly Ray86IROC.
www.inter-scape.com/Ray
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Old Oct 13, 2001 | 06:59 AM
  #7  
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It could be a bad injector, runs fine if you are one the gas but when at a stoplight it starts bucking ??
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Old Oct 13, 2001 | 11:07 AM
  #8  
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From: Ft Worth, TX USA
Car: 2016 Ram 1500
Engine: 3.0L Diesel
Transmission: 8sp
hey I have the same problem and I was going to change my "accel 300+ crap wires" I dont know how summit talked me into them after getting my 300+ ignition.
I have heard some bad things elsewhere and mine have some burns in them.
I think Ill go with taylors


------------------
88 WS6 T/A 305 TPI--
K&N,Air foil,hypertech chip, thermostat+fanswitch
free mods, dynomax catback, urethane motor+trans mounts, PST front end poly stuff, Earl's hyperflex brake lines
SSM SFCs, Bilsteins
very trick homemade ramair, Accel 300+ ignition system. Ported plenum, intake and heads with 1.94I valves.
Planning: Heddman 1-5/8 longtubes, NOS 150 plate, replace the "peanut"! and Eibach Sportlines.
check it out at:
http://www.geocities.com/transam617
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Old Oct 13, 2001 | 11:36 AM
  #9  
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by manuel:
Man,What do i have to do to get some attention?
Please, I need your advise.
</font>
Patience, apprentice. Not all of us can have access to the boards 24/7. I'm glad you finally added the data on the vehicle, since that makes the diagnosis easier (and faster) as well. A TPI engine would have a different set of possibilities.

I would check all ignition components as Ray and 88 have suggested. You might also want to check compresion if the ignition system doesn't reveal anything. A vacuum leak can also cause a lean mixture and missing at low RPMs, so inspect the lines and vacuum valves too.

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Later,
Vader
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