I am haveing trouble with my vacuum advance HEI timing . The car runs fine but I know it can be better . The motor is an 87 GM crate 350 4 bolt main , 8 inch balancer , carb edelbrock 1405 and the non cc distributor . The dis I bought from a member hear cheep , and I had to replace the advance waight's . I bought the Mr gasket kit with the advance curve spings . The car seem's to be running rich blue smoke from tail pipe's not oil smells gase . I am currenty running the black springs (soft ) and my plug gap is at .35 . Now is the part where you can make fun of me I have no timeing tape or pointer on it . Also need a time light PM me if you have one you want to get rid of . I bought tape and a pointer but have not installed . Need some tip's on that , like witch way to read the number's if I am looking at the balancer from the drive side . Do I put the TDC mark thats on the tape on the line on the balancer . Is there hole's in the block for the pointer the bolt's they sent me look small (summit ajustable ) pointer . I have never had any mark's on my small block motor's just set the dictributor at TDC and gone, I am getting deeper in to timeing now and need some help .

 

Wierd, but you need to find #1 at TDC, then set set tape and a pointer accordingly. Searching will yeild all you need to do.

 

Ok that I can do . What do I do from there about the car's running status . Open the plug gap change to a stiffer spring ?. This pointer I have may not work . The rotor is pointing at # 1 at TDC . What can I do without the timeing tape . I am sure the car is at TDC . Running rich

 

i would advise you to check out this tech article if you havent done so already.

 

You can buy a timing light at Sears for $30.

 

I have read that tech article and has help some . If anyone has any direction I should go that will save me some trial and erra time cool . I feel and this is the only place that has help'et . Like once I get the tape and pointer on what way do I go advance or retard change spring . Will not be able to work on intill next sunday & need some advice so I can improve then . Will up date next week Thank's for the help . Time light deal stand's .

 

Forget about srpings, wieghts, etc at this time...just get a reading to TD at #1, then adjust base timing (rptating the dizzy with vacuum advance disconnected and plugged at source) to about 8* BTDC or so....timing mark on the balancer, or tape, should move ot the left viewing down on it, as you advance timing and to the right as you retard it (from relative position)

Then, if she's running well enough to continue, you can look at total timing and curve (weights and springs)

 

As suggested align the timing indicators, set the base timing, then you can play with weights, springs. Start with a .035" spark gap on cheap plugs, and once your satisfied with the timing, Drive it for a while, then put in a fresh set. Read up on spark plugs before you changing the gap, and or heat range before you spend good money on expensive plugs.
There are other websites, this is just one. There's also a page on gapping.
About spark plugs

Pointer should mount to the perimeter of the timing chain cover by removing a couple of cover bolts,and the pointer should be at about the 11 o'clock position.
Once the #1 compression TDC position is found you can adjust the pointer over the balancer timing mark (line, groove whatever you want to call it.)

 

Thank you very much this is a good start .

 

I do however have to use the new waight's the stock ones are toast . I can use the stock springs though . I will have to look in to some cheep header plug's (flow tech junk) not worth the hassel to try and get reg one's in and out . Any recomended heat range to start with stock GM 350 with carb intake and header's .

 

Carb, intake, and headers on a a stock engine don't require a change in heat range.
Yea, it's a pain to change them. I use inexpensive plugs, change them 3 times a year, but I get better performance.

 

Man rgarcia63 that spark plug articel has so much info . I will have to read about forty times to understand it better . But it is just what I needed . Thank You for that . In my loop of fiend's I am the only one with this addiction to car's . So it is a littel tough to learn for me with no one showing me some basic stuff . I never give up though , me and my Roc have a 10 year relation ship and the love is still there . After motor's, tranny's , rear's ect . Thank agian Giancarlo . Oh ya on that picther it look's like the marker is at 1 o'clock not 11 is that a typeo ?

 

Yes, it's 1 o'clock, I'm dyslexic.
I've had my '88 IROC-Z since '98 so not quite 10 years.
I have never let anyone drive my car (that's why I don't have any friends) except for the safety inspection & emissions Tech, and before he test the brakes I set the Petronixs rev limiter to 1500rpm, they don't like it, I tell them it's the brakes your testing not it's ability to burn rubber.