87 ta 305TPI / auto about 200,000 on the engine.
it has the digital dash, the oil pressure will sit a notch above 30 when its been just turned on, after she warms up, when im stopped at a light, itll sink down to 0 or almost zero, and i'll hear that good old BEEP. when i accelerate itll go up and past 30. i HAVE changed BOTH sensors/sending units (the one behind the distributor and the one by the oil filter)

stalling: sometimes when turning or breaking a little harder then normal, she'll stall. i think even one time i threw her in nuetral while i was moving and she stalled, could have been a coincidence.

now the check engine light does come on, but isn't it usually on when the key is turned and the engine isn't on? if it's actually throwing a code, will it stay on when i turn the engine back on? or stay in the computer so i can check it when i can pull over?

i need help, this is my daily driver

 

Wow! I can't believe nobody stepped up to the plate on this one. You can use a paper clip to pull the codes by connecting it to the A/B terminals on your ALDL port under the dash and retrieve your codes. It sounds like you have a weak oil pump on your hands. Does the motor ever knock?

 

i have codes 43 and 36, engine doesn't knock

 

Code 36 is for the M.A.F. sensor burn-off circuit. You might have a bad connection in the wiring there, or a bum burn-off relay. The M.A.F. sensor could be bad too. Since you're not getting a code 34, I'd say to check the burn-off relay. Follow the links:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...+relay+testing

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...+relay+testing

I don't have T.P.I., but I believe the relay is on the passenger side in front of the strut tower and the battery mounted. I could be wrong, so it wouldn't hurt to check that out. Where's that electrical expert Vader when I need him,lol.

Code 43 has to do with the Electronic Spark Control (E.S.C.) system. Or you can call it a knock sensor for short,lol. Once again, you could have a wiring issue here, or you might need to replace it. There is also an E.S.C. module that could be bad. Keep in mind that there could be two Knock sensors, one on each side of the block. I've heard of some cars like that. Some even have them mounted in the back of the cylinder head, but I think that was older models. Mine just has one on the passenger side. The way this system works is the Knock sensor sends a voltage signal of 8-10 volts when there is no spark knock being detected. When spark knock is detected, or abnormal vibration, the E.S.C. module turns off the circuit to the E.C.M. The E.C.M. then retards the Distributor until the spark knock or vibration goes away. If the knock sensor fails or loses its gound at the E.S.C. module, the E.C.M. continues to receive a high signal and therefore it will continue to control the E.S.T. function of the Distributor. This will cause the engine to knock like crazy because the Distributor will never be retarded. Since you aren't hearing any knock, I'd say that you probably lost your E.S.C. signal to the E.C.M., which causes the timing to be retarded constantly and killing your performance. The E.S.C. module is usually located on the firewall next to the brake booster. I don't know if you have headers, but I've heard they could create a problem with the knock sensor. Here's another link for you to check out:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...module+testing

This might also aid you in your testing proecdures. If Vader happens to glance at this post, then he'll probably be able to help you out a lot more than I can. Like I said earlier, he seems like an electrical expert. I've been working on the electrical shortcoming in myself lately, but I'm nowhere near as good at it as he is. We all have to know our limitations,lol.

 

thanks for that info, more than i could tell just by looking at what the codes mean, i'm probably going to need it in the upcoming week. after the codes popped up (one code was when i was stalling alot and another was when i was adjusting the idle speed and she started deseiling) but the check engine light isn't on anymore, do you think these things were just acting up or could still be malfunctioning?

 

Code 43 could have been tripped when you were dieseling, since that is usually cause by advanced timing that makes the car run warm and more suseptible to spark knock. I would still recommend checking both out just to be on the safe side. Especially the M.A.F. burn-off relay.