So after i installed the new intake the car miss fires and dies when i brake at a stop light when it goes to 500 rpm. Now i know its a vac leak and its from the dis. cause there is a oil ring around the dist.. So what am i doing wrong here

 

Unless you have some sort of really unusual distributor, there may not be a problem there. Most of them aren't designed to retain vacuum. Many mechanical/vacuum advance distributors do have a vacuum advance (and sometimes retard) serrvo attached to the side, but a leak from that shoudl not cause enough of a problem to stall an otherwise properly running engine.

Moreover, the distributor mounts to the intake, and the intake should seal the upper potion of the crankcase. The crankcase should be under a slight vacuum from the PCV system, so that any oil leakage around the distributor should be minimal. If there is a problem with the PCV system, that may cause the symptoms you are describing.

 

Just to cover the all the grounds, you did set the timing after you put it all back together, right? You do have all the plug wires and all that going to what they should go to, right?

Make sure you put it together correctly before assuming you did something wrong.

 

Well this is the third time i redid the intake because of this problem. The engine is a 92 tbi 305. Now i got this intake off a 89 firebird tbi. Also when i forgot to put a gasket on dist. once and made the car ran very rough. But now the gasket in place but still the oil ring and the car mis fires a little and dies at stop lights. So i think the vacuum leak is from the dist. So maybe if i put rtv around the dist. with gasket it might seal it better? what do u think.

 

You may have damaged the distributor running it without the gasket, causing it to bottom out. Just a thought.

 

no i didn't damage it cause the car ran way before i forgot the gasket. The cars good but it just misfires at 500 to 750 rpm. So i know its a vacuum leak, cause the ring of oil. After 750 rpm the car runs great, so the dist. is not broken. Meh

 

even if the base of the dist leaked like a **** its only crank pressure/vac which i dont think would give you problems like that. Even my dist leaks just enough to leave a thin layer of oil on the intake and i have no problems.

If you think about it, If the small leak at the dist caused that problem then the breathers on the valve covers would kill the engine totally...

Try messing with timing? posibly fuel pump/pressure?

Engine specs?

 

well i clean the injectors, last year i replace the fuel filter, and a couple of months ago i replace the fuel pump, so its not fuel, unelse i need to put up fuel pressure up? timing yea, i need to do that, but u think that could be the prob?I don't have a timing light so i can't really adv. or ret. it that must but ill try it. The engine is a 92 305 tbi engine with about 150,000 miles, but it runs strong.

 

if you took the distributor out and have no way of actually timing it then that is your problem.. you need to time it.. you can turn that thing hardly any and it can change up to 4 degrees on the timing mark.. and if you have no real reference for where to start that thing is never going to run right until you get it timed right.

 

well, i timed it off the timing marks, one and half triangles, so thats like 2-3 adv? I think.

 

Set your RS timing with EST disconnected to have the strobe of the light and line on the HB in the deep "V" on the tab...that's "0" *'s" and factory spec...when you twist the dizzy and the line on the HB moves to the left of the deep "V" on the tab, you're advancing it.

 

Each ont of those full triangles is 4 degrees
(from 0 -2-4-6-8-10-12) each peak and valley is 2 degrees

 

I agree with Angel, that holds true for testing for a bad Dizzy.
I disable the ECM control, amd hold the rpm steady at about 2000, if the mark jumps around, it's very likely that the dizzy has been damaged.

 

at 2000 RPM... huh.. i might have to try that with mine.. just to see what it does.. constantly sounds like i have a dead cyl in mine.. but i might just be hearing things.. changed everything except the dizzy, and it will not go away... hmm.. is it posible for the dizzy to not fire on one cyl? (this is a 1980 non cc dizzy)

 

I would think that would be visible in the cap at the brass tip for that cylinder. Try doing a dead cylinder test, remove one wire at a time until the engine shows no change in rpm, that's the cylinder with the problem.

 

hmm. no not really. huh.. will have to look at it again.. this one has been a dog to get everything just right... between the holley carb, and ripping out all the CC stuff.. not to mention my exuast likeing the a-frame (it is actually touching it firm enough to where i can not get anything between it.. but rattles like a **** when you accellerate)