Valve adjustments... car not firing
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 450
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From: Lincoln Nebraska
Car: 1990 Camaro "RS"
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23 LSD
Valve adjustments... car not firing
Ok well today I tried starting the car up. Sam(redsled), Brian (schoolofburn) and I went through and double checked everything. We went to start it and nothing was going on. Changed the timing a bit ( think we advanced), cranked it and it was backfiring like mad, but not actually firing up and sustaining itself.
Checking the valves over, noticed that some were waaaay too tight. Backed off almost all of them a good 1/2 turn to full turn, some more. Tried again, engine sounded healthier trying to crank but still wouldnt fire. Checked valves again. It went from being loose to tight again. We did this several times, adjusting the valves. Some would be too tight, others had the rockers almost falling off. Did this about 7-8 times, but just couldnt reach a happy medium. Called it a night not too long ago.
Could someone diagnose a problem from what I just explained? Or is there a better way to go about this? Any help woudl be appreciated.
Checking the valves over, noticed that some were waaaay too tight. Backed off almost all of them a good 1/2 turn to full turn, some more. Tried again, engine sounded healthier trying to crank but still wouldnt fire. Checked valves again. It went from being loose to tight again. We did this several times, adjusting the valves. Some would be too tight, others had the rockers almost falling off. Did this about 7-8 times, but just couldnt reach a happy medium. Called it a night not too long ago.
Could someone diagnose a problem from what I just explained? Or is there a better way to go about this? Any help woudl be appreciated.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Center Valley PA
Car: 1894 Camaro Berlinetta 305 auto
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: TH 700 R4
valves
how did you ajust/check the valves? did you ajust a certian number of them with pistons one at TDC and then the others with piston six at TDC or did you back them all off untill there was some lash and then run the engine and then tighten untill the clacking was gone?
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,301
Likes: 0
From: Severn, MD.
Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
Hyd. roller or flat tappet? What did you set the lash at? Either way, remember EOIC when going through them. As the exhaust valve is opening set the exhaust (Thats the EO part) and as the intake is closing set the exhaust (the IC) part. This makes sure that whichever valve your adjusting is on the base circle, not on the ramp.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 4
From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
The following will do both the Valve adjustment, and timing together.
Timing:
Once the #1 cylinder piston is at TDC of the compression stroke confirm that the Dizzy rotor is aligned with the Dizzy #1 spark plug wire Tower. If it isn't rotate the engine until it is aligned then, remove the Dizzy and continue with initial adjustment. The preceding keeps the oil pump shaft aligned with the Dizzy #1 spark wire tower, and the #1 cylinder TDC while the engine is turned. Drop the dizzy in when the engine is again at it's #1 cylinder compression stroke TDC.
INITIAL ADJUSTMENT:
First, rotate crankshaft until mark on damper aligns with Zero mark on the timing tab, and No.1 cylinder piston is at TDC of it's compression stroke, determined by placing fingers on the valves for No.1 cylinder as timing mark on damper nears the zero mark on front cover. If valves do not move the engine is in the #1 compression stroke (now do the FYI.) If valves move, the engine is in it's #6 compression stroke and should be rotated an additional turn.
Second, with valves in #1 cylinder compression stroke adjust exhaust valves 1, 3, 4 and 8, and intake valves 1, 2, 5 and 7.
Back out adjusting nut until lash is felt at pushrod, then turn adjusting nut inward until all lash is removed. When all lash has been removed, turn adjusting nut an additional turn. Zero lash can be determined by rotating pushrod while turning and adjusting nut.
Third, rotate crankshaft one revolution, until pointer Zero mark and damper mark are aligned, adjust exhaust valves 2, 5, 6 and 7 and intake valves 3, 4, 6 and 8.
Finally, Install valve covers, then start engine and check idle speed and ignition timing.
READJUSTMENT: (If needed)
After engine has been warmed up to operating temperature, remove valve cover one at a time.
With engine running at idle speed, back off valve rocker arm nut until rocker arm starts to clatter.
Turn rocker arm nut down slowly until the clatter just stops. This is the zero lash position.
Turn nut down 1/4 additional turn and pause until engine runs smoothly. Repeat additional 1/4 turns, pausing each time, until nut has been turned down one full turn.
Timing:
Once the #1 cylinder piston is at TDC of the compression stroke confirm that the Dizzy rotor is aligned with the Dizzy #1 spark plug wire Tower. If it isn't rotate the engine until it is aligned then, remove the Dizzy and continue with initial adjustment. The preceding keeps the oil pump shaft aligned with the Dizzy #1 spark wire tower, and the #1 cylinder TDC while the engine is turned. Drop the dizzy in when the engine is again at it's #1 cylinder compression stroke TDC.
INITIAL ADJUSTMENT:
First, rotate crankshaft until mark on damper aligns with Zero mark on the timing tab, and No.1 cylinder piston is at TDC of it's compression stroke, determined by placing fingers on the valves for No.1 cylinder as timing mark on damper nears the zero mark on front cover. If valves do not move the engine is in the #1 compression stroke (now do the FYI.) If valves move, the engine is in it's #6 compression stroke and should be rotated an additional turn.
Second, with valves in #1 cylinder compression stroke adjust exhaust valves 1, 3, 4 and 8, and intake valves 1, 2, 5 and 7.
Back out adjusting nut until lash is felt at pushrod, then turn adjusting nut inward until all lash is removed. When all lash has been removed, turn adjusting nut an additional turn. Zero lash can be determined by rotating pushrod while turning and adjusting nut.
Third, rotate crankshaft one revolution, until pointer Zero mark and damper mark are aligned, adjust exhaust valves 2, 5, 6 and 7 and intake valves 3, 4, 6 and 8.
Finally, Install valve covers, then start engine and check idle speed and ignition timing.
READJUSTMENT: (If needed)
After engine has been warmed up to operating temperature, remove valve cover one at a time.
With engine running at idle speed, back off valve rocker arm nut until rocker arm starts to clatter.
Turn rocker arm nut down slowly until the clatter just stops. This is the zero lash position.
Turn nut down 1/4 additional turn and pause until engine runs smoothly. Repeat additional 1/4 turns, pausing each time, until nut has been turned down one full turn.
if you changed the timing and it wouldn't start after the change why would you think all of a sudden the valves got out of adjustment? it would seem more logicial to me that you changed the timing too much, or is there a big part of the story you're not telling?
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: texas
Car: 1986 trans am
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: th700r4
i had the same problem. my car would turn over backfire alot but not start. i adjusted the timing and and valve lash as stated above and it fired right up with no problems.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,231
Likes: 1
From: Manassas, VA
Car: 89 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305 - Demon 525
Transmission: 700R4
Here is a link that has alot of info in it for anyone to read. I came across it while searching for other issues, it may help someone out there.
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/
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