Sitting here, Planning all the stuff i need to get done to Get my motor back On track on sceduel, I realized that I havent given much though to Changing the springs.

I have the new springs, I have the Tool. I figured i would pick up the seals at that parts store tomarrow, but Ive never Done it before And am Not entirely clear on the process.


I suppose my biggest concern is Keeping the valve from falling into the cylinder. ive heard using compressed Air works, But I dont have the Fitting to Do so, and Its not likely Im going to get one before tomarrow.

What about filling the cil with Rope, and Turning it to TDC suck that the piston stops.
Would that work ?

Oh, lastly What is the best way to prime the lifters ?

Thanks.




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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

 

Get the air adapter. It's cheap and it really works well. Rope isn't a guarantee that the valve will stay all the way up. and if theres a pocket in the rope 'spiral' enough for the valve to fall in there your screwed! Sure chasing the firing order around will help, but it's soooo much quicker with the air.

You should also check your installed height. Sometimes the shims are there for a reason (factory milled to deep), sometimes just to stiffen up a shot spring. A cheap way is to cut a bolt to size and make sure it's the right length (1.7" or whatever installed height you want) and install the retainer/keepers without the spring and pull up with your fingers and see if the stud fits tight/loose and shim it. This method doesn't tell you how tight or loose, but by trial and error i got mine this way. Then again people I know never checked anything and their cars run fine.

Make sure to use spring seats on aluminum heads (If they are alum.)

To do the lifters, put them in a jar of fresh oil and with a pushrod press the plunger a couple times.

Roll your pushrods on flat surface (glass) to see if they wobble.

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'88 Camaro RS 2.8L
'88 Formula 350 (Too many mods to list...)

[This message has been edited by JoelOl75 (edited March 28, 2001).]

 

I did my valves without compressed air and without any ropes or strings attached. It's easy. Slow, but easy. Just bring the piston to TDC on the cylinder you are working on, then do both valves on that one. With the piston fully up, the valve is only sitting about 1/2 inch from the top of the piston. Remove the locks, and the valve may slide down a bit but not far at all. Piece of cake.

I don't have an air compressor, and even if I did I'm not certain that I could get a fitting onto the spark plug hole for #7 and #8 cylinders due to the Edelbrock TES headers on my car. So for me the manual method worked just fine.

Just make absolutely CERTAIN that you have each piston at TDC before you take off the locks for the valves on that one. That's what makes this job slow. Check, double check, then do the valves. Sure beats doing an unplanned head removal.

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89 IROC with lots o' stuff

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Used compressed air, went through without a Hitch




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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

 

I also did the same method as D_Amlee and had no problems.

 

when I took my valve springs and locks off, there were these small rings around my valves that kept them from going through the guide, I had to take them off first. They were really weak and crumbled into dust when I tried to expand them though.

Anyone else have these?

 

Sounds like they used to be O-rings. I replaced mine as part of the valve seal job.

 

Not that it matters, but I did it using nylon rope and it went smooth and easy, not a hitch. The biggest problem I had was that of a cheap spring compression tool, I ended up using a couple of box end wrenches, the rocker studs and a large nut and washer for most of the springs.

The tool I own is great when the heads are off of the car, but there isn't much room to work with them installed.

 

i throw the o rings in the trash, with my valve lift they would touch my seals.

compressed air makes the job easy. i use my compression tester hose. it has a regular coupling on it so i can hook a hose to it, then thread into the head. crappy little sears spring compressor actually works great also.

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85 IROC 350 11:1keith blacks,.555lift erson roller cam,1.5 crane roller rockers,edelbrock intake,holley 4150 750dbl pumper, nitrous oxide,full length heddman headers,true dual exhaust, 11"stall converter, 700R4, 3.73 locker

 

I read your note on using a compression tester hose to connect the air compressor to the spark plug port. I also have the Sears compression tester. I considered using the hose to the compression tester until I thought about it. There is a check valve on the side that plugs into the spark plug port. This check valve only allows air to flow up the hose towards the gauge. It prevents the air from escaping back into the cylinder during cycles of the crankshaft. If you use this hose for your application, the check valve not allow air from the air compressor to travel down the hose into the cylinder. The air compressor will still pressurize the hose. The air will just not pressurize the cylinder. I just ordered a connector hose from NAPA for $10.




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Jamie