Just wondering what the majority is using in their cars. I have a 92 RS 305 TBI, should I use synthetic oil only?

 

You might want to search the archives as this has come up several times in the past and you'll get the same answers. It appears that most prefer to go with either Mobil 1 or Amsoil.

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"Rice burners are like tampons...Every pu$$y has to have one"
'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
3" Hooker CatBack w/Aero Chamber muffler
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat, just switched to 180* b/c of winter coming and going to college in the mts.
3:73 Posi
Rebuilt 700R4
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite

 

ok, i will stats this again, my father has been a mechanic for 30 years and his take on this is......use what ever is the cheapest BRAND NAME oil. We buy havoline, pennsoil, G.S. Valvoline ect. what ever is on sale at wal-mart. We change the oil with an oil filter ever 3000 miles religiosly. The engines stay clean and we have never had to replace any worn out internal eninge parts. It is more important to use a good brand name oil and filter and change it every 3000 miles then to use Syn.

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1987 Black 305 TPI 5spd IROC, seems to be fully loaded, but can't find RPO codes.

AIM: IROC 5spd
http://www.geocities.com/chevy5spdiroc/87Roc.htm

 

ditto camaro, thats what i also do and have no problems, its also not a good idea to put synthic in a mid/high milage engine as it can cause leaks and sometimes mess up the engine. really its a waste of money unless its a drag engine.

 

I've run Synthetic in my cars since break-in and they've lasted a long time.Can't say for sure that the synthetic oil is the reason, but after 225,000 miles, the 305 was still running very well in my RS,(when I replaced it with a 350),didn't burn more than a pint in 3000 miles,no smoke,etc.
Also run synthetic ATF in T5,and synthetic gear oil in rear.
Richmond says to run synthetic with their gears,and all the ASE Techs I know swear by it as well.
I'm using Redline 20W50 in my engine,D4 ATF in my transmission and 80W140 in the rear.
It's expensive, but how long do you want your car to last? I drive hard most of the time and I'm convinced that the synthetic oils are at least partially responsible for how well my cars hold up to the abuse.
-Rich-

 

Baloney. Camaro had 123k when switched, after valve stem seal replacement (intake only) at 125k, has been using a quart every 2500 miles with 144k on it now (should have done exhaust seals while I was at it). No external leaks anywhere.

I've never worn out an engine that had synthetic in the crankcase. I've been driving for 30 years, been using AMSOIL for the last 18.

If you think a $2-5k engine is better off with $1.50/qt oil, and all you need is to get through the warranty period, then go ahead and do the "cheapest name brand" thing. Otherwise, Mobil 1, AMSOIL, Redline (not necessarily in that order).

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 CC system w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback, restalled TC, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).