Hello, I am posting in the hopes that someone might have any more good ideas to try and fix this problem before saying that the engine is bad...
As the title suggests, she has pressure when she is at cold idle and when driving, or revving the engine. Then after she warms up 0 pressure at idle. Yes, this is confirmed with a second gauge.
We replaced the oil sending unit. We replaced the oil pump and strainer. No foreign debris etc.. in the oil pan. Any ideas what in the world to check now? The car still runs normal.
Also the car in my opinion runs hot. The fan doesnt seem to kick on until its about 3/4 up, which i think its about 230-235 degrees. But the fan never fails to engage right there, so the thermostat seems to be working, just oddly high. But anyway, the oil pressure is my concern! Please give any suggestions!

 

This is in general form since you didn't post any information on the car, or engine.

Second gage, or manual gage?

After it warms up, remove the fuel pump relay, start the engiine, it will take a few seconds long to start. if it does start, the oil pressure is at least 6 psi, that's how much pressure it takes to close the oil pressure switch to power the fuel pump as a backup to the fuel pump relay.

If you have a single fan, it's the high temperature fan switch in between the #6 & #8 cylinders on the head that's turning on the fan. The ECM should turn on the fan below 220°.

 

Why not pop off a valvecover to see if you are getting oil?

 

Sorry, this is a 94 camaro 3.4l.

Gage was from the store, went where the oil sensor was, i guess you can call that manual?

So, if the engine starts after i disconnect the fuel pump relay, and it has atleast 6 psi, what does that tell me? I should just assume that its got enough pressure and is ok if it can start after its already warmed up?

I'll look into the fan more and see if i can look at the valvecover sometime when i get home and try to take off the fuel pump relay, thanks!

 

manual psi gauge is like the pressure gauges used for air, fuel, or compression.

It's tells you that the 0psi reading your getting is incorrect because with 0psi, and the fuel pump relay removed the engine will not start, and idle.
A manual gauge will show how much psi you actually have cold, and warm.

 

What weight oil are you running?

 

well I was using 5w-30 before it happened, and after we replaced the pump we tried 10w-30. Doesnt seem to have made a difference, but I will probably go back to 5w-30 after the next oil change. Maybe even try synthetic?

 

Those 60 degree 6-cyl motors are notorious for that. The S truck people will tell you all about it.

It needs a crank and bearings. No amount of fooling around with the oil system will make any difference. Changing the oil will make no difference. Don't waste your money putting thicker or thinner or synthetic oil in it, it won't fix it. The lack of oil pressure isn't the "problem", it's just the symptom of the real problem, which is, excessive bearing clearance due to being worn out. The motor dosen't have long to go before it blows up.

 

well, thanks for your honestly atleast. Any idea how much I could be looking at? Is it worth it or maybe I should just consider getting a new engine?

 

I would not get a "new" engine. A 6-cyl isn't worth that kind of $$$.

You can probably get a suitable motor at the junkyard; any of the RWD GM 60 degree 6-cyl motors should work. One of these cars, a truck, whatever. You could possibly get a whole motor, and take off whatever is different from your existing one, and swap your stuff over.

Another possibility is to just get that crank turned and put in new bearings along with it; or replace it with a "crank kit" such as from Standard Crankshaft. If the rest of the motor is good, like no smoke and no leaks and no odd noises and no built-up crusty gunk all in it, that's probably the best cheapest way to go. I'd guess you could get it back going for less than $250 that way if you do it yoruself.

 

Thanks for the info. I think im going to just do what you said, and replace the bearings. The reason I am so shocked that this is a problem is how well the engine runs and all. No smoke or gunk or leaks.
I took a look at standard crankshafts website, any idea how much that kit would run? Just wondering if anyone might no before I call and order anything. Thanks so much for the info, hopefully will have the time to fix her in the not too distant future!

 

Iunno, used to be about $200-$250 or so. About the same as what it costs to get one turned and buy a set of bearings. Call or e-mail them and ask.