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Engine dies at the stop light

Old Nov 8, 2001 | 06:30 AM
  #1  
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From: Barbados
Engine dies at the stop light

I bought a 87 GTA crash car which I had repaired body wise and am discovering mechanical problems now. After the car is driven for a while (warmed up) the engine just shuts off when I come to a complete stop for more than 3-5 seconds.I have also noticed some vacumm lines not connected.These are two right behind the right headlight. When I connect them the engine idles rough and eventually cuts out. there is another vacumm line not connected running from a y connecter attached to the cruise control unit and I dont see where it is suppose to connect. I appologise if I seem to be ignorant but I am not a Qualified mechanic and here in Barbados Know one is Qualified or has any experience whith these cars.
Thank you.
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Old Nov 8, 2001 | 07:34 AM
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Sorry about the typo errors.
I forgot to mention, when I start the car the oil pressure gauge (digital dash) lights up (test) but after that it goes off the scale. Ocasionally it will read momentarily on the extreme high side. I wonder if this may also have something to do with the engine shuting down as well.
To clarify on the mechanics, Barbados sell only Japanees and european cars and very few american cars. To find a mechanic who knows what to do is rare. They usually guess most of the time. I hope using this forum will help me point the local mechanics in the right direction.
Thanks
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Old Nov 8, 2001 | 12:56 PM
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Car: 99 Formula
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Those vacuum lines are most likely to your evaporator canister for gas return line. I would check to make sure your TC lockup is working properly.

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Old Nov 8, 2001 | 01:11 PM
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From: chambersburg,pa,usa
I had the same problems with my 92 Z.

Of course vacuum lines that are not hooked

up would more than likely to cause you loss

of power rather than engine cut off.

Sounds like you might wanna check some

sensors. And maybe a tune up wouldnt hurt.

Important sensors would be your throttle

postion sensor if you have TPI.

And knock sensor other than that,

I wouldnt know..
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Old Nov 8, 2001 | 02:53 PM
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I would start off by plugging the vacuum lines, if they are the small hard plastic type. Anything bigger could be important.

Your oil pressure guage should start out high and gradually fall off to 10-30 at idle. As you rev the engine it should climb, if this is not the case you probably need to change the sending unit(that brass type thing sticking up on the back of the block).

How does the car idle? Does the check engine light come on? Disconnected vacuum lines could very well cause the engine to die, and most likely idle badly. When was the last tune up?
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Old Nov 8, 2001 | 06:01 PM
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Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
A faulty converter lock up solenoid is a common problem on all GM overdrive trans
and does just what you discribe. Because it's a rebuilt crash car, you'll have to check the vapour return lines back to the tank and at the canister and figure out what got monkeyed with. a haynes or motors
manual may help.

[This message has been edited by F-BIRD'88 (edited November 08, 2001).]
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Old Nov 8, 2001 | 08:59 PM
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From: Barbados
Thanks for the quick response. I had the car tuned up as follows :-
Change the plugs,air,fuel,oil filter.
Also I think someone adjust the throttle stop screw on the right side of the plenum.
the Vacumm tubes to the canister are rubber and when I connect them the car idles bad and cuts out. I will follow the Canister diagnosis first since the car was damaged on the front right side and I noticed the canister is bolted on with a different screw. I will also check the oil pressuese sensor too. Thanks again and I will update you guys later.
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