Well if anyone has been following me and my problematic code 15, i was working on my car today and noticed a couple of frayed wires in this plastic box looking thing by the brake booster. I took pics of it with my digital camera, but dont know how to post them becuase they are .bmp files. However i can send them to someone and maybe they can post them. Anyways, i unhooked the four wire connector out of the little plastic box, then looked inside and i saw a bunch of black goo all in the connectors. this cannot be good. i also have a pic of my gauge to show you guys how screwed it is. email me and i'll send you the pics. im thinking of taking my car to the dealer and having him fix my wiring problems and clear this code 15 for me. thanks

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1987 LG4 Camaro z28
Modifications- Flowmaster 80 series, KN airfilter, high flow cat, 180* stat, edelbrock performer intake manifold, msd blaster coil, ascd big block hood, panasonic cd player, rockford everything else.

 

anyone? how do i post transfer pics from .bmp to .jpg?

 

i just sent u an email to tru69cugar@hotmail.com. respond back with the pics and ill post them for you.

 

If it's the box just to the right (facing) the booster, I believe it's your EST module, if it's one of the other 3 to the far right, they're relays for MAF, MAF Burnoff and fuel pump (in no particular order).

 

Re: Your code 15, does it set on start up? Or intermittantly?

 

my stupid code 15 always comes on after about five minutes of driving the car. it seems that alot of people on this board have had problems with a code 15. it isnt easy to fix.....

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1987 LG4 Camaro z28
Modifications- Flowmaster 80 series, KN airfilter, high flow cat, 180* stat, edelbrock performer intake manifold, msd blaster coil, ascd big block hood, panasonic cd player, rockford everything else.

 

heres z28's picture:

 

that almost looks like your fan relay box...
spray a crap load of carb cleaner, or electronics cleaner, scrub it with a wire brush, and go from there.

it can't hurt, and it's worth a shot

 

I see 3 parts... the large one on the left with the Weatherpak connector is the ESC module; the small one in the middle is the fan relay; the one on the right with the vacuum line is the MAP sensor.

I don't see any frayed wires in the pic, but it's kind of hard to see any really fine details....

Code 15 means that the computer failed to see the engine reach some reasonable temp (130° I think) within 10 minutes of running. This is usually caused by a defective coolant temp sensor, or its wiring. It's on the water outlet; it has 2 wires, 1 yellow, 1 black. Typically you start the car up, drive a few miles, the light comes on; you can turn the key off and right back on, the light will go out for another 10 minutes and cone back on.

The original CTS may have an extremely stupid connenctor (probably does if you're getting this fault); a new one comes with a new wiring pigtail which updates that to a much superior design.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

thanks for all the help, now i think ive gotta find a new pigtail for the cts. ive already bought a new cts, but no pigtail was included with it. where should i find a new one? auto parts store? dealer item? im not too sure i should get one from a wrecking yard. and if i do get a new one, should i crimp the wires together? or is soldering always the technique to go with? im not too good with the whole shrink wrap technique yet, plus my soldering skills leave much to be desired, what do you guys think? oh yeah, by the way, the harness that im trying to show everyone in the pic is the one to the far left, nearest the brake booster. theres a brown/tan striped wire thats totally frayed and some of the strands of wires no longer connect to anything, and the light tan/white wire with the same problem as well. thats the esc relay you say.....could that be why i get a hesitation every once in a while off of the line?

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1987 LG4 Camaro z28
Modifications- Flowmaster 80 series, KN airfilter, high flow cat, 180* stat, edelbrock performer intake manifold, msd blaster coil, ascd big block hood, panasonic cd player, rockford everything else.

 

ESC is not a relay, it's the Electronic Spark Control. It has to do with determining ignition timing. If it's fornicated, your advance will be wrong (probably non-existent) which will make the car generally sluggish all the time, use too much gas, and run hotter than it should especially on the highway.

You could probably get that connector with a foot or so of its wire off of a junk car and cut your dead one off and splice the other one on. Lots of cars have those.