Cam is 453/472. I know screw in's are better but if we do go with a bigger cam or extreme revving, the L98heads are coming off and a good set of AFR's are going on, so Its not worth paying now. Would pinning the studs be good for now and last with this cam? Thanks.

 

If none are pulling up now, the lift isn't too much more than a stock L98 cam, and wouldn't be neccessary. Of course if they are off and you have time, go ahead. I wouldn't be concerned about pulling the heads to pin them or trying to attempt it in the car, just for the cam lift you're looking at. Just use a stock Comp-type replacement spring...i/e nothing like crazy-too much pressure, and you'll be fine.

 

Heads are in the basement so its easy. I called machine shop and they wanted 150 bucks to mill and tap and put in their studs assuming I pull my own out. Well after a few post's and some broken bosses I see from pulling them out I said ehh I dont want to risk it. I plan on pinning anyways for a little insurance and plan on using Comp 983-16 Ovate springs. 1.2500 Diameter

 

Pinning the studs are, to me at least, one of those things that if you have the provisions and the ability to, go ahead and do so.

 

Pinning the studs will work fine for ya. The outer surface of the stud is case hardened. Kills the drill bits. Run the drill at a moderate speed, use a little WD40 and sharpen the drill bits often. I use a cylindrical shaped grinding stone on my die grinder to sharpen drill bits.
The hand technique need to reastablish a cutting edge on the drill bit is a bit of an art.
The cast iron bosses and inner steel of the studs drills much easier. Got to have patience when drilling throu the stud surface thou. Useing excessive drill pressure will just get you busted drill bits. Exessive drill rpm will just burn up the bits. By the time you've done both heads you'll be an expert at hand sharpening drill bits.

This is why shops don;t want to pin studs for ya. They make more $$$ more quickly by maching for and selling you screwin studs and guideplates. All it takes is time and a few drill bits. i work with about 5.
If you own a "Drill Doctor" you're all set.

you want to measure the diameter of the roll pins and select a drill bit the is a few thousands smaller so the roll pin compresses slightly as you tap it in the drilled hole throught the stud boss.

 

Only thing I'd mention, is although WD 40 isn't a lubricant, it's not good as a cutting oil. I'd pick up a 2 or 3 ounce bottle of pure soluable oil, a few squirts mixed with water is good for cutting oil..don't confuse my use of "oil" as a lube, but as a cutting aid. Main thing with cutting anything hard, is to keep the bit cool. Soluable oil mixed with water, makes the water "stick" to the surface and keeps the bit cool. Water itself would work fine, but boils off too quickly.

I only use WD40 on Aluminum, to keep things from galling and plugging up when turning or drilling Al.