I just replaced my P/ up assy in my MSD Pro-Billet Dist along with the ign mod and new blaster coil. I doulble checked to make sure my sp wires were run correctly and they were. How ever after I replaced these parts now immediately afterwards when I crank it up it has a smooth idle for a few seconds and then it starts gettin rough. I decided to let it get warmed up and see what it was going to happen and nothing really changed. I did notice my f/press was fluctuating between 30-40+ psi. When I would rev the motor it would pop like the wires were crossed, also the idle is like that of the old 292 solid lift camshafts of the day. I have an LT1 cam w/ 1.6rr's in mine and my timming has been set at 12-13 degrees for, well as log as I can remember. Any help would be MOST appreciative,tia.

 

How old are your sp wires? Do you have the 5 & 7 separated to prevent inductive misfire? As for the fuel pressure flucuation it could be a fuel pump, regulator or power & ground to the fuel pump. If you can't find the problem try putting the old igniton back in and see if it changes anything.

 

Thanks, I had to replace the p/up assy b/c the wires on the old one decided to come out with the ign mod. The ign mod is new and it was runnin fine before. Although it stumbled once and thats what got to lookin at the ign mod, b/c the last time it did that I replaced the ign mod and it went away. I looked last night all of my vac lines are on and snug. I talked to MSD tech yesterday and he told me to adj the p/up assy to .025 gap between it and the reluctor. I did that last night and the skip went away after a fewminutes the surging came back. BUT, not as bad. The rpm's jump now only 4-500 rpm's and the f/press fluctuates 4-6 psi. So, I am clueless now, unless I have a bad ign mod.

 

Thats exactly the same thing that happened to me when I put in the MSD blaster coil. After spending soo much money on things I thought were wrong I still havent figured out why are the RPMS fluctuating like that.
Some narrowed it down to the fuel pump, some to the oil sender unit. I just adjusted the air idle screw (on my TBI) to let more air and fuel in, and it somewhat fixed it. I have a bit of hesitation left now compared to what I had before after I installed the MSD blaster coil.

So if someone can chime in, I would appreciate it.

 

Your vac lines might be good and tight but the leak could be in what they are connected to. If you clamp off each line one at a time and your surge goes away you have found a vac leak. Brake boosters, carbon canisters and HVAC have been known to leak.

 

Thanks, well tonight on the ongoing saga,lol. I unplugged the O2 sensor and there was no change. Soooooo, I looked at the D.Cap and the wires and even the vac hoses again and saw nothing, So, tommorrow I am gettin a New D.cap and rotor, and sp wires. Then I am gonna fix me up some soapy water and spray it every where for possible vac leaks. The only other thing I can think of is the EGR. I have seriously thought about remov8in the EGR alltogether and then I think there is a way to turn off this function in the ECM but I am not sure, so if anyone knows for sure please chime in, tia. This is sendin me into deeeeppppp depression, but it aint won yet!! SO any help would be MOST appreciated, Thanks.

 

If you disconnect the EGR it will keep it from opening, but it is going to throw a code and turn your SES light on. The only way around this is a new chip. A custom chip would be the best, but hypertechs thermomaster chip keeps the light off. I have one in my car and with the Holley Stealth Ram there is no way to run an EGR and it keeps the light off. I am not that happy with the chip, too much advance. I will get a custom chip when I am done with the mods.

 

Yeah that is what I have been told I have a friend who is gonna take care of that Monday.

So hear is the latest and greatest update, I RnR'd hte D.Cap and rtr btn and cranked it at first for about 3-4 minutes it was fine and then it learned (I guess), and wentbak in to the same routine EXCEPT now its runnin real rich, and remeber I have the timming at 12-13 degrees and the f/press at 46 psi so tommorrow I am gonna RnR the sp wires( just b/c the old one look like !@#$%), and then I ma gonn start sprayin all hte vac lines and intake and see what happens. I may also try my old faithful ign coil first since I knownits good juuuust to make sure the MSD coil is not bad as well(in which it shouldnt I just got it, but anything is possible).

 

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Well she is FIXED!!! You are NOT gonna believe this!! I replaced almost everything chasin this thing down,lol. I finally got the skip gone and thought that b/s of the loud hiss noise from the tb I had a vac leak so I started lookin and I found some bolts loose on the upper plenum, so I RnR'd the upper gaskets. Well it STILL did the same thing. I used strater fluid to chase down any other vac leaks. I found NONE!! So, I decided to drive it to see what it would do, well it wouldnt harly get out of the drive way. So, I figured that I have a timming problem now. So, I decided to call MSD back(since I have there MSD 8366 Pro Billet Dist) and talk to one of htere techs and I described EXACTLY what I had done and he said w/o even hestating you have your wires crossed on the o/up *** to the ign mod!! I saod ok I will give it a try he saiod that should fix your problem and guees what? I DID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YAHOOOO!!! Now while I had the upper plenum off I decided to cap off the EGR valve so I need to get some tuning done and a chip but after that I am goood to go!!! SO rry it was soooooo long but I thought ya'll might wanna know in case some one else ran into this same problem.