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Impossible to trighten 12 pt header bolts?!?!?!

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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 01:08 PM
  #1  
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Impossible to trighten 12 pt header bolts?!?!?!

Recently got new ceramic coated headers. Decided that I didn't want to look at rusty header bolts anymore, and didn't want to spend 1/2 hour tightening the last bolt on the passenger side. Figured I'd get some stainless 12 pt ones from ARP. They were much easier to tighten than regular 6 pt heads, except for the fourth one on each side. I can't get a closed end wrench or a socket on them because the primary turns to close to the bolt head. How the hell do you tighten it down then? I can't use an open end wrench from teh side because its a 12 pt.

Surely I'm not the only one with 5 12 pt bolts, and one 6 pt on each header???
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 01:39 PM
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
You could grind down a 12 point box end wrench to make a 12 point open end wrench.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 02:55 PM
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Or grind down a 3/8ths socket so it has a really thin wall where it hits the headers.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 03:25 PM
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Capscrews are the only way to go. I will never use bolts again on headers...
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 03:32 PM
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
You mean some kind of socket head.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 03:37 PM
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Car: 82 Z28
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Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Sorry yes, socket head cap screws.

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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 03:51 PM
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From: Worcester, MA
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That's what I'm using.
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 06:35 AM
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From: lake orion mich
Car: 1984 ta slightly modified
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto 350 w/reverse valve body
Axle/Gears: 410 ratio
I have had the same problem no mater what style bolt is in that location. I took a flat screw driver between the head of bolt and tube and CAREFULLY wiggled it down through there until a wrench would fit, And yes I have a few ground down wrenches also.
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 08:33 AM
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I regularly use a combination of bolts and "cap screws" (allen-head bolts) on my various header installs. Sometimes it's easier to get a socket on, sometimes it's easier to get a wrench on, sometimes it's easier to shove an allen wrench in the end of it. All depends on the circumstances for any given bolt location.
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 11:16 AM
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From: Lower Salford, PA
Car: 1987 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.3L Victor EFI
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"/4.11 Trac-Lok
I start by putting all the bolts only a couple of turns & move the header foward or back to gain access to the most difficult bolt heads. Some of the tubes would block direct access with an allen wrench, so I use 12 point bolts & a 3/8" combo wrench.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 08:35 PM
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From: Florida
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Yet another 350 TPI
Transmission: Borg Warner 6 spd
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Thanks for all the input. Didn't think I'd get this many replies.

Yeah, I thought about grinding down a boxed end wrench, but am not even sure if its worth the effort.

I have tons of socket cap screws laying around, never thought of using them.

Question: Right now I have the 12 pt ARP stainless screws. Am I wrong to assume that just because they are made by ARP that they are any stronger than regular stainless steel?
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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 12:32 AM
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
They might be stronger, but what difference does it make?
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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 09:07 AM
  #13  
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From: Lower Salford, PA
Car: 1987 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.3L Victor EFI
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"/4.11 Trac-Lok
Originally posted by Apeiron
They might be stronger, but what difference does it make?
Yeah, especially if they are going into an aluminum head. The main advantage is it's harder to round of the head of the bolt.
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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 05:15 PM
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From: Florida
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Yet another 350 TPI
Transmission: Borg Warner 6 spd
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Mainly because I've broken off , and rounded off my share of factory header bolts before, and it should be easier to round off corners, etc... if they are made of a softer material. Stainless steel isn't exactly the strongest thing out there.

They sure are nice to look at though....
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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 05:28 PM
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
I rounded the heads of my hedman bolts. They were that porous metal that just feels cheap. Rusted in a few days as well. I got 3/8" thread 3/4" length stainless steel allen head bolts for $1.25 a piece, so at $15 and no shipping fees its definitely the best deal in my book. I'm actually working on a way to cut my allen wrench down about 1/2" on the shorter side so it clears the bend in the primaries. Then we're talking 5 minute header installs.
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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 05:39 PM
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From: Florida
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Yet another 350 TPI
Transmission: Borg Warner 6 spd
Axle/Gears: 3.73
firebirdjosh, did you get the email I sent earlier this afternoon?
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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 05:50 PM
  #17  
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Nope, I don't see it, want to try PMing me?
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Old Oct 22, 2005 | 04:27 PM
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS
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Axle/Gears: 3.73
Thats odd. Anyway, I just sent you a PM...
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