it's an '84 lg4 305, 4bbl, w/ no emissions controls or a computer (if that really matters). ALL suggestions are welcome: after-market parts, do-it-yourself stuff, whatever!

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1984 Firebird S/E
305 V8 (LG4), 5speed
Holley 650 cfm 4bbl
Edelbrock headers
Flowmaster 80 series
No cat
3.73 rear
P275 60 rear tires
P245?50? front tires

 

Heres what I would do...Dont take the list in a certain order or anything...Just a list...

1. K&N air cleaner assembly. Ditch the single-snorkle thing. It sucks flow-wise.

2. 3in. catback - depends on what you want. Flowmaster and Hooker seem to be prime choices around here.

3. 3 inch. cat-converter - Check out Catco and Random Tech.

4. headers - Hooker Super Comp. Shorties are great, but make sure you get them Jet-Hot coated.

5. New camshaft. I believe you have a hydraulic roller cam, so check out the CompCam264H camshaft.

6. Edelbrock Performer intake manifold - $120 for almost 20 hp.

6. If you are really wanting to go the next step, get a new set of heads.

This is what I planning on doing to my 87 LG4.

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1987 Camaro Sport Coupe 305 V8 LG4-rebuilt-All Stock.

Future Mods: Flowmaster American Thunder 3 in. Cat-back, Catco High Flow Catalytic Converter, Hooker Super Comp Shorty Headers Jet Hot coated, K&N Air Cleaner, CompCam 264H, White Paint, IROC wheels, Alpine CDM-7871 CD player, Polk Audio speakers, Grant GT Rally Steering wheel,New Fuel Pump, Ground Effects, B&M Megashifter

 

are the hooker headers better than my edelbrock headers? i don't know anything about the edelbrocks because they were already on the car & i never bothered to check it out. also, where can i get the cam you mentioned and how much hp will it add?

 

1.) sell it ASAP, 2.) buy a better car to put your money in, trying to make this car fast you will be spending a TON of money, makes better sence just to throw your money off a cliff.

 

Everyone's right! It WILL take quite a bit on money when all is said and done to make it fly, BUT BUT BUT........ it will be very rewarding to mod it since almost everything you do to it will make it faster!

I agree that the WHOLE exhaust has to go- EVERYTHING from the manfiolds back is restrictive. And it's all single 2 1/4" pipe so you can't reuse anything- not the cat, or the y-pipe, nothing. If there is anything left in the system that still has 2 1/4" pipe- replace it with 3" stuff. Like- is your y-pipe 3" at it's entrance to where the cat used to be? Is the intermediate pipe into the muffler 3" stuff?

I'll agree with all the intake mods. Replace your secondary rods with a set of richer DRs (stock is usually a super-lean set of CH rods). You won't believe the difference.

What about that distributor? Is it still the stock computer controlled unit? If so, you have a LOT of HP waiting for you when you replace it with a non-computer controlled HEI! As soon as the ECM sees the stock computer controlled carb isn't there it throws a fit, goes into "limp home mode" and gives yur distributor a LOUSY timing curve. Get a cheap Summit HEI distributor, throw it in and set initial timing to 10-12* BTDC and you'll be saying "WOW!" in no time.

Cam is NOT a roller cam- plain 'ol flat tappet variety. And it's super wimpy. You can get a mild hydraulic cam from just about anywhere for around $100 with lifters. Shoot for about 205-210* intake duration (little more on the exhaust is OK), about .450" lift, and a 110* lobe separation angle and you'll have plenty of "punch" in the lower and mid range where you need it most.

The good thing is.... when you get sick of the little 305 and decide to throw in a 350 or 383 you can recycle 90% of this stuff!



[This message has been edited by Damon (edited November 19, 2001).]

 

damon - how much should all this cost? and how much of a horsepower gain should i get from all of your mod's and the mods that metkiss316 listed? as far as an exhaust system is concerned, the car already has aftermarket headers put on by heaven knows who, but i wanted to run a dual 2.5 or 3" exhaust, possibly replacing the existing headers, leaving the cats out completely, and putting on dual flowmaster 40's. i don't know if i can fit that in under there, though. how do other people set their dual exhaust up? thanks to everyone for their advice, and thanks ahead of time to anyone else that posts.

 

just drop a 327 or bigger motor in it


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when the green flag drops the bull$hit stops

Gold 85 Camaro with no motor, pulled the 2.8 to make way for a 350 wich was pulled this summer because a 406 will replace it. The 406 sports a stock bottom end with ARP bolt holding it togeter, flat top hyper pistons. Comp 282 solid cam(.528 lift with 1.6 rockers) Savin up for my Sportsmen 2 heads right now. still Have the perf RPM and 650 DP i used on the 350. Headers and 3inch exhust. Shooten for mid to low 12s next summer

 

I can't speak for Damon but definitely follow his advice. He has helped me a LOT!

Look at my sig and copy the parts. We have very similar cars.

Forget about true dual exhaust and simply hook up a 3 inch pipe from the y-pipe to the muffler, which must have a 3 inch inlet and two 2 1/2 outlets. It is just as good as "true duals" and cost a lot less.

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1986 Camaro Sports Coupe
Flame Red Metallic with Black accents and Red interior
T-tops, variable wiper, power hatch, rear defrost, third brake light
LG4 305 V8, Hooker Shorty headers, 3" pipe into Walker Quiet Flow dual exhaust
Edelbrock Performer intake, "Damonized" Q-Jet 4bbl, K&N filter
Crane vacuum advance kit, Proform 50,000 volt HEI coil and MSD 8.5 mm Super Conductor wires
TH700R4 transmission and Derale cooler
Air conditioning, power windows, power door locks, power brakes, power steering, tilt wheel
Kenwood cassette, Pioneer 6x4 component front speakers
Rockford Fosgate 6x9 Punch rear speakers
Z-28 front and rear sway bars
Aluminum slots and Goodyear 225x60R15 Eagle HP tires
243 horsepower and 326 foot pounds of torque at the flywheel
_ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _
Yea verily, and he smote the smog heathens from his small block Chevy, even from the air pump to the converter ...
Todd 1:1