I think I will get the motor one of these for being good.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...item=597908689

It just so happens that he said he will sell a set outside of ebay for close to 300



No question as such.. if anybody has past experiences with these I would appreciate it. ..but,.. I think they would be much more reliable than a needle bearing waiting to drop in the motor.


[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited November 19, 2001).]

 

now whats the question your asking?

 

We've had a set on a dirt modified car all season. Since about mid March. Probably have
about 40 nights on them at least. They are still working great. Turn 7800rpm 30 laps or so a night. They guy was offering to mix ratios also so 1.5/1.5, 1.5/1.6, 1.6/1.6, 1.6/1.5, was possible.

The head studs under the blue aluminum stands had to be removed and the tops cut off as low as possible, (not a problem with bolts). Then the blue aluminum stands had to be milled slightly deeper but there is plenty of material to do it. This was on Brodix 11x heads and may not be a problem on other heads.

IF the instructions don't say this BE SURE to have all the rocker adjusters loose when you bolt down the bars connecting each pair of rockers. They will NOT take much spring pressure if one bolt is tightened before the other since they are very hard a brittle. In other words, bolt down the bars on each set of rockers, then tighten down the adjusters.

The pushrod geometery can be adjusted some by the height on the stands also. That's a plus for getting it right on!

Hope this helps! I'd love to have a set on my 383 TPI but have spent too much on other mods to get them.

This sounds like an advertisement maybe and I have met the guy when we bought ours, but really it's just our experience with them.



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SMasterson

 

Double post. . . sorry about that... why did it do that?



[This message has been edited by SMasterson (edited November 19, 2001).]

 

Sheesh, triple post. . . now I'm really confused!

[This message has been edited by SMasterson (edited November 19, 2001).]

 

Hmm.. I am running head studs and track1 heads. Sounds like some work will be required to bolt them on (I had hoped to just remove the indivdual rockers and studs). I might have to rethink.

thanks



[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited November 19, 2001).]

 

y would u need those.

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when the green flag drops the bull$hit stops

Gold 85 Camaro with no motor, pulled the 2.8 to make way for a 350 wich was pulled this summer because a 406 will replace it. The 406 sports a stock bottom end with ARP bolt holding it togeter, flat top hyper pistons. Comp 282 solid cam(.528 lift with 1.6 rockers) Savin up for my Sportsmen 2 heads right now. still Have the perf RPM and 650 DP i used on the 350. Headers and 3inch exhust. Shooten for mid to low 12s next summer

 

y would u need those.im not familure with the combo so enlighten me

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when the green flag drops the bull$hit stops

Gold 85 Camaro with no motor, pulled the 2.8 to make way for a 350 wich was pulled this summer because a 406 will replace it. The 406 sports a stock bottom end with ARP bolt holding it togeter, flat top hyper pistons. Comp 282 solid cam(.528 lift with 1.6 rockers) Savin up for my Sportsmen 2 heads right now. still Have the perf RPM and 650 DP i used on the 350. Headers and 3inch exhust. Shooten for mid to low 12s next summer

 

The main reason is to increase reliability and reduce the possibility of breaking an aluminum rocker arm. They also provide lighter valve train weight and more accurate valve timing.

 

They're pretty slick though, but not a direct bolt on with studs. I believe you could remove the studs one at a time to trim them down.



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SMasterson