I am trying to start my car today after doing some major upgrades, and Im having trouble.
This is what I have added:
* WP S/R Torquer 305 heads
* CompCam/Lifters
* Timing set
* SLP runners
* Ported Plenum
* Headers/Catback/Cat

On advice I turned the engine to 10° before #1 and set the distr. pointing at #1.

The car started and ran, but very rough. It misfired and so on. My initial suspicion is towards the timing?
What do you guys think, where should I start?

ANY help would be very much appreciated. I need to get her up and running again, she's been down for 2.5 months.

Thanks a lot,

:/
Ken

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1986 IROC-Z Conv't
- White Gauges, 17x9.5 TT II rims w/275/40x17" F1s, 1.5" Jamex Lowering Springs, BMR stb, Lakewood APR, PST suspension parts, Edelbrock Trailing Arms, KYBs, Edelbrock RPM Cat-Back, Edelbrock JHC Headers, Catco, World Products Heads, CompCam, SLP runners, Ported Plenum, K&N, Airfoil +polished/billet dress-up stuff
ChevyKen's Cars

Administrator @ ChevyWorld.net

 

Couldn't hurt to recheck the timing. Also make sure you have the plug wires in the right order, who knows maybe by mistake you crossed one or two. Check for any vacuum leaks as well.

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"Putting any amount of money into a RICE BURNER is like wiping your a$$ with a turd. "
'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
3" Hooker CatBack w/Aero Chamber muffler
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat, just switched to 180* b/c of winter coming and going to college in the mts.
3:73 Posi
Rebuilt 700R4
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite

 

Couldn't hurt to recheck the timing. Also make sure you have the plug wires in the right order, who knows maybe by mistake you crossed one or two. Check for any vacuum leaks as well.

------------------
"Putting any amount of money into a RICE BURNER is like wiping your a$$ with a turd. "
'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
3" Hooker CatBack w/Aero Chamber muffler
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat, just switched to 180* b/c of winter coming and going to college in the mts.
3:73 Posi
Rebuilt 700R4
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite

 

I don't know so I'm going to ask (don't take any offense), Are you sure you put the dist back in right? You may be better off starting all over. Put the dist at TDC on the 1 cylinder. If you don't know how to do this post back.
bsa

 

Thanks guys, and no offense taken

I was suspicious enough of the timing to take the cap back off (I checked the wires, they were right) and I can pull the distributor if neccessary.
And, just to be sure, I would not mind at all to get some new inputs on how to correctly get the dist. on TDC for #1, just to make sure thats not where I messed up.
I did post a while back about if there is only ONE specific way the distributor goes down, and thus only one physical direction that is always #1.
The reason for this question was that I could not get the distributor down to where the #1 would be towards the front (a little bit towards the drivers side) as my books show. The reponse was that it really doesnt matter as long as I get the correct wire in the correct place. Therefore my #1 is almost straight towards the break booster. Is my problem possibly related to this?

Also, is the idea of setting the timing mark at the balancer at 10° before tdc and then the distributor Right at #1, correct???

I am sorry for all the questions, but I just need to make sure that all this is correct.

Thanks again guys, I really appreciate it!


Ken

 

Ken there are two ways to install the dist. You might have the thing 180 degrees out.

I know as I have done this several times. I was glad to see that after turning it opposite that it ran great.

Hope this helps.

 

Hey Ken,
The way that I get the dist at TDC on #1 is to pull out the dist and pull the #1 spark plug. I then get an assistant to bump the motor over with the starter while I put my finger over the #1 plug hole. As soon as I feel compression (its a pretty strong blast so be careful) I tell my assistant to stop bumping it over. I then get a breaker bar and turn the engine over clockwise using the crank pulley bolt until I the timing mark on the balancer points at 0* on the timing indicator. You should now be at TDC. Put the dist back in witht the rotor pointing at the number 1 terminal on the dist cap. You may have to put the cap on, make a reference mark on the base and then poin the rotor accordingly. To get the rotor pointing at the #1 teminal after its seated in the engine, you may need to turn it about 20* counterclockwise from the #1 terminal befor you drop it in since the rotor will rotate about 20* clockwise once it engages the cam gear. Good luck!
bsa

 

Thanks again for your help guys!
I had the distributor out, but put it back in the same position, cause as DM91RS mentioned, it will fit only 2 ways.
Now, how will it run if 180° off??? Will it run at all? Would it be dangerous at this point to try to switch it 180°?
I also am 99% sure I have at least one bad plug wire, because it runs real rough and is obviously missing one. There is some gas in the exhaust (a little wet) + it seems to backfire in the cat now and then.

Any additional help, especially regarding the 180° possibility, would be very much appreciated.

Thanks guys,

Ken

 

if you have a 305 i might have an answer for you. some of the blocks had the timing in the middle of the timing cover, instead of on the side. when i first started my engine i had the problem of timing, i just could not seem to get it to 6btdc without it stalling out. so i brought it to a mechanic and used a piston stopper to find tdc. he told be it wa about 12 deggress off my timing tab. he told me that on some 305's the timing mark was on the top, instead of the side. i still have to get a new tab, but he set it fairly good hope this helps

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90 RS 305 tbi, 4 3/4" cowl Hood, Edelbrock TES headers, Flowmaster exhaust, Crane roller cam, comp roller rockers, vortec heads/intake, ported tbi, w/new injectors, MSD probillet Distributer/ coil, 1 inch tbi spacer, air foil, 14x4 k&n flat base air cleaner, Rebuilt 700r4 w/ B&M shift kit, B&M Megashifter, 3.23 posi, 2 12 RF's with mtx amp, top of line alpine cd player, soon to have 90-91 gfx, z-28 wing, new paintjob, rims, and all new lowered suspension.

 

killer305,
Yeah, I have a 305 - but I don't think that is the problem, becuase I took off the original timing cover and it had the tab on the side. I also did time the car before with the original cover/tab in place. Not saying that the tab on my edelbrock cover can't be off - but it definitely was not one with the tab straight up
Good catch though - and thanks a lot!!

Any takers on the 180° questions?

Thanks,

Ken

 

If it was 180 out, it wouldnt run but rather it would backfire nicely. You really cant set the timing that way, its just to get the car started so you can check it with a light and set it properly. Set the timing, and get back to us

 

madmax, you mean try setting it the way it is now? Or switch it around 180°?

Thanks,
Ken

 

Ken, you have mail

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1984 Z28 350
Never argue with an idiot, they'll just bring you down to their level and beat you with experience
My Web Page

 

Thanks for your inputs, Les - I emailed you back!


Ken

 

I've seen and engine with the dist 180 off and a few spark plug wires switched sorta run, but it was real ugly. Its unlikely you'll damage anything, espicially with TPI where the intake is dry. FWIW, I've got a 305 (in an s-10 blazer actually) where to get it timed right I had to have the plug wires shifted 2 posts over on the dist from where they're normally put. I have no idea why, but it runs fine. If you've got the wires on in the right order, and you're pretty sure you're not 180 out, then just start turning the cap and when it starts to get better, keep turning it that way until it runs.

 

Ken sometimes my engines would crank and run like sheet being 180 out and as was mentioned sometimes would only backfire and not start only try to start.



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91 RS 5.0 TBI....LT4 cam....Edelbrock headers....3"Dynomax exhaust....5spd.... 3.08.....Ultimate tbi....afpr...ZR 255-50's...Koni's

 

Ken,

Assuming your wireing is correct. Reset your timing to 0 at t.d.c and set the dist to no 1. Make sure your oil pump shaft slot is at 11 - 5. Now tell me about the valve adjustments and cam timing you did during assembly.

Tight Lines
Milt

 

Well guys, I don't know if I dare tell you what the main problem was..*shrug*
I bought these fancy billet alu wire looms, and in some impressive way I'd managed to get #1 and #3 twisted, so it actually was a wiring problem after all, but I couldn't see it - so when I did my cable check with the multimeter today - I found the error.

So, basically it starts easy and runs fairly smooth now, but the timing is still off. I was not able to see the timing mark when testing it with the lamp today. However, it ran nicely enough that I could break-in the cam, which was my main concern. Tomorrow I will try to find out whats up with the timing mark not showing. Any ideas...?

Thanks a lot for all help an inputs,


Ken <~~~feeling d@mn stupid right now

 

Ken, glad to see you got that B@d@*** vert going (Yes I do want you car )
Another way to check TDC is to line up the mark on the blancer with the timing tab. (For future use)

If you want to get that timing set correctly (Performance) Hook up a vac guage to the manifold and advance the timing to until it starts to back down, then back it off 2deg's and your set. Its much better than a light because it gives an accurate reading.
SSC