Is it a good idea to put some grease on bolts when installing headers in case they might need to come off and to keep them from rusting?...Is that a good idea to do for other things such as installing panhard-rods, LCA, ect...I've also heard of putting a silicone material on some bolts for certain applications as well....and advice or opinions about this? Thanks.

 

I'd use a copper anti-seize.

 

Get grade 8 stainless steel bolts. Its cheap insurance against broken/rusted bolts.

 

no such thing as grade 8 stainless bolts, AFAIK. A link to prove me wrong?

 

I'm probably wrong then, I told the guy at the store I needed grade 8 or better stainless steel allen bolts for my headers and he just gave me some stainless steel ones.

 

had to double check this one, as I wasn't quite sure of myself.

Generally that's true, stainless is like grade 4ish. Allen bolts are usually like grade 9 bolts.

however, arp claims to make some stainless bolts 15% stronger then grade 8... I'd guess precipitation hardedning...
Aside from those ARP bolts, usually stainless is weaker, but doesn't rust.

Anyway, header bolts aren't exactly high stress, or dangerous (not like if it breaks you're dead), so their fine.

 

I just use some nickel anti seize, especially in aluminum heads. Never install any bolt dry. Always use some kind of lubricant or sealer.

ARP stuff is stronger b/c of the way they're made.

 

Why bother? They always seem to fall out or come loose by themselves anyway!

 

Not if you re-torque them after they've been heat cycled a few times.

 

Joking!!!!!!

 

And retorque them again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again and again...

The constant heat cycling makes it nearly impossible to keep standard bolts torqued down for me, even with lock washers. Been thinking of getting a set of split-lock bolts. Not quite as strong but maybe theyll stay put.

 

Anyone ever tried the ones with holes in the heads, where a piece of wire runs through the holes, from one bolt to the next? In theory the bolt won't turn because the wire keeps it in place. I just put a set on, like $15 - but haven't run the car yet to tell if they do any good. If I ever get my brakes and tranny working, I'll let ya know the results.

 

safety wire, no need to ever look at them again

 

i have had the stage 8 bolts in mine for 4-5 years now and don't have not had a problem with them or had to retorque them.

 

Obviously I didn't have enough sarcasm dripping from my post. One of the biggest problems with header bolts is that 1 some headers have the holes slotted to allow you to install the bolt against a tube that turns right out of the flange. No surface area to grab onto and 2 the entire weight of the header (especially long tubes) is on the six header bolts and depending on how the exhaust is made if there is tension from the pipes below the headers simply flex and vibrate the bolts loose. Loose header bolts isn't as common on other engine headers because only sbc have the 1 2 1 exhaust port arrangement that causes the bolts to be so difficult to work with. I've installed tons of header sets and I've had good luck with blue (removeable) loctite.

 

Hevent touched the ones on my daily driver in 3 years.

 

Mine love to come loose no matter how tight they are. Another problem may be how poorly these aftermarket exhausts fit. The constant stresses on the headers themselves probably help the bolts to come loose.