Just wanted to know if anybody has used a G-Tech before and what you think about it? Is it worth the $140?? I'd like to get one so I at least have something to judge any modifications i do to see if there is any performance increase. I've heard that they aren't exact, but at least they are consistantly wrong - so you can still judge whether gains or not. So bottom line...should i buy this or not?

 

I've got one. It's worth the money only if you plan on using it often or doing upgrades to me anyways. And make sure you have places that are flat and straight for more than a 1/4 mile. And they have to be safe and free of cops. I find it hard where I live to find these areas. They are quite accurate, I believe +- 3mph for 1/4 mph. Within .1 sec. for the 1/4 time. The first time I used it, I thought what a waste of money, that's only because I ran slower than I expected. But it is useful to see what works and doesn't.

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"Putting any amount of money into a RICE BURNER is like wiping your a$$ with a turd. "
'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
3" Hooker CatBack w/Aero Chamber muffler
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat, just switched to 180* b/c of winter coming and going to college in the mts.
3:73 Posi
Rebuilt 700R4
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite

 

I've got one and unfortunately havent got to use it as much as I'd like to. You have to have a place to run thats totally flat and straight. I've tried to use it on places even with a slight hill and it throws the numbers off.

 

i have one and i tink it is worth the mone to go out and buy one. they may be werong but they are consistant enough to tell if your money being spent on mods is worth it

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89 Rs camaro
305 tbi
3in flowmaster muffler
manderal bent pipe
no cat

ELECTRONICS

viper alarm
pioneer 4-way 6x9's
15' orion sub in a bandpass box
300x1 kenwood amp
180 watt JVC cd-reciever

 

Get one there a great tool to have!!! I took mine to the track once and found it to be 0.12 seconds fast and 5 MPH more everytime.

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89 T-Top GTA 350 5-speed (soon to be 6-speed)
(Jet hot coated)1 3/4 SLP headers,flowmaster force 2,no cat's,SLP cold air,MSD 6al,march pulleys,ported plenum,air foil,B&M ripper shifter,180 stat,alston SFC,spohn LCA relocation brackets,ES LCA and Panhard bushings,free mods.

0-60 5.2s
Track Time
60' 2.049
E.T. 14.14@96.7MPH (2270 FT)
13.76@99.4MPH corrected

 

I've had mine for a while and it sucked a$$ in NY, but now that I go to school in FL, I'm starting to use it again and like it(seems more accurate and consistant now et wise). You need a road that is flat and straight, (hard to find in many places) I tried highways at night in NY(not a very good idea)

Here's my last few runs with G-Tech(mounted to dashboard at .01 Gs)
N/A ~60hp(guess) N20 2 foggers
(20 N20/22 Fuel)
14.50 @101.9 14.04 @108.1
14.28 @103.2 13.94 @108.5

Obviously the mph is way off I'd say -7mph and add at least .2 sec(maybe .3sec)

At orlando speed world
14.62-14.8 @ 95-96.4mph (3 runs same set up)

In NY I got anywhere from mid 13s to mid 14s when at a track I ran 15 flat at 93mph. I say it's good for checking mods and tunning, but don't post a G-tech time as what your car runs.

If you have a place perfectly flat to use it, I say buy it, but nothing with a slight hill will work as stated above.

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14.62@96mph headers, muffler, chip, ghetto stuff, duct tape
89 GTA 305 TPI 5 speed 3.42 gears

 

I got one too, got it for free when I bought some BF Goodrich tires. I've made a few runs with it, got just about what I expected, but like the others say, the mph is off by about +5.
I'm fortunate enough to work on an industrial park road which is about 1-1/2mi long, freshly paved and pretty much flat for just about 1/4 of a mile; relatively dead at night, too! The only trouble i've had with it is getting it to stay leveled/calibrated before I start the run.
It gave my L69 car a 15.62@94mph, with a carb bog on the launch (gotta get that carb under control)

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D.R. Stevens
1984 Trans Am 305HO L69
original engine
Dual snorkel AND hood
louver induction, K&N
CK rods/B hanger
Accel HEI super coil
timing bumped to 8*
700R4 built up with Superior shift kit
3" Pace Setter exhaust
(Heddman Hedders soon)
3.42's out back
other superficial stuff
1991 Firebird 305 L03
Removed silencer ring
bypassed Thermac
K&N filter
otherwise stock

 

I read a comparison in Popular Hot Rodding on the G-Tech. They said that the farthest it was ever off was .2 sec.

The MPH difference was explained as a difference in the way it's calculated at the track compared to the G-Tech. At the track they use your average over the last 66 ft. to compute your MPH. So it's gonna be a little slower than what your actual speed is through the lights.

The G-Tech computes the MPH right at the 1/4 mile mark. Therefore it is gonna be as much as 2 MPH higher than what the track says.

That's all. Other than that, it's a great thing. After all, does the drag strip tell you how many feet, or how fast it takes you to stop? Does it give you lateral acceleration readings? I don't think they do that stuff at the track, do they?

AJ

 

If you're interested I would sell mine to you for $105 including certified shipping. Email me if you're interested.

 

I like mine. The results have helped me see what actual relative changes mods made (w/o having to go to a track). It's fun, too. If you are a gearhead, you'll love it - such a cool little gadget, built on such simple principles (high school physics).

Don't make the mistake I did, tho - stay away from the cops while you're testing!!

 

How exactly do you calibrate them?

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'82 Z28
LG4 305 .030 over, performer intake, holley street avenger 670, xe 256 cam, tes headers, 3 inch single exhaust, spintech muffler, 14 x 3 inch drop base k&n.

 

You have to make sure it is pointing directly forward and then you have to align it perpendicular to gravity (horizontal)... this is so that the accelerometer inside only measures your car's forward acceleration, not any component of the downward acceleration from gravity.

There will a tiny bit of error (gravity) involved in this (your car doesn't stay *perfectly* flat, the front rises a bit when you first pull off the line), but it's still pretty accurate.

If you want to test lateral acceleration (G-force on turns), you point it directly sideways.

If you meant an actual periodic calibration adjustment, I don't know that there's an option for this (although you'd think it would be easy to take a level and get it pointing straight up/down and make sure it reads 1.00 G's...)

[This message has been edited by Joel Geerling (edited November 26, 2001).]

 

First part answered my question thanks.