ok my car has been acting like a little punk recently. it passed the strict smog test today with not a whole lot of problems but as i was taking her up and down the highway i noticed that when i got on it and the tranny downshifted the engine would quit accelerating. once it hit around 3500 rpm the engine sounded like it was choking. it happens alot when i'll gun it from a dead stop, the car will reach about 4000 rpm in first gear and start struggling. all of these problems began once i changed my intake manifold, cap, rotor, coil, plug wires, cts, fuel pump, egr. I have no clue whats wrong with my car, its just being gay. if anyone can help me out id greatly appreciate it.

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1987 LG4 Camaro z28
Mods- 80 series flowmaster, k&n filtercharger, open air element, high flow cat, 180* stat, edelbrock performer intake, msd blaster coil, ascd big block hood, panasonic cd player, rockford everything else.

 

Try changing the fuel filter.

 

Sounds like a spark problem...
Put your old coil, cap & rotor back on and see if it changes.

I really think it's spark, but if that doesn't help, try messing with your carb... that manifold is gunna be alot better than stock, and is going to feed alot more air, you're going to need the fuel to balance it all out.

That should do it, let us know how it goes.

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

 

i also changed the fuel filter at the same time that i changed everything else. right now its one of two things, at least i think. number one i think it could be the new cap rotor or wires, since ive had the problem ever since i changed them. or it could be the est connector, since three of the four wires are exposed and looking really cheesy. i do plan on going to the dealer tomorrow to buy a new est module, who knows but i will try what you've suggested and let you guys know-

 

If you change the module, the wires will still be bad.

Keep in mind that the ability to pass inspection does not guarantee maximum performance. If you're like me, you might even end up being one of those people that pulls their perfectly good motor out and puts in some something lame in order to pass, and then maybe puts the good stuff back in later on. Something to think about...

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Are you getting a check engine light? If you leave the timing wires disconnected (or one of them has gone bad) you will get a check engine light. The trouble code will say "bad electronic spark control module" when, in fact, the wires are simply left disconnected. Ditto leaving the knock sensor disconnected.

 

i havent gotten any trouble codes, and my car upon start up still seems to be leaving a noticably strong fuel vapor. my choke is adjusted correctly, for once. im going to the dealership in a few hours and getting the module, but im sure the new module will come with extra wire that you can just crimp to the old set of wires. my wires are only bad for the first two inches or so that they go into the harness, everything before that is just fine. plus when i took it all apart the other day, there was alot of this black goo in the connection, im guessing that the stuff was dielectric (sp?) grease. ill keep everyone posted on how it comes along. what are the chances that a plug went bad? they are bosch platinums that only have about 5 thousand miles on them, but i have a fresh set of ac delco rapidfire's chillin in the box.

 

well i went to the dealer and the part i need is discontinued, which is a real bummer. i think i have to find one from a donor car.... great.... now im really screwed. anyone have any suggestions now?

 

Anyway the cat could be bad? I have a fresh motor heat up and melt the inside of my High flow cat, so I disconnected it and it rev fine so I threw the cat out and ran straight pipe thru.

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1987 Firebird Formula
305 LG-4
GM Vortec heads 2.02x1.6 valves
Crane CompuCam 2030
700-R4 Trans
4 barrel quadrajet
edelbrock performer intake
Open Element Air Filter
No Cat with flowmaster exhaust
NO MORE COMPUTER CRAP
NON computer HEI Distributer
700R4 Lockup kit
Hypertech Thermomaster Chip installed in a nonworking computer

- Soon to be installed
Edelbrock TES
Stall convertor

 

i just had my cat removed yesterday to test that theory. my cat was squeeky clean, it had only a few months on it, im gonna reinstall it for smog if at all possible. i still have this stupid problem. although i did notice that the problem goes away if i shut the car down and restart it. wierd......

 

I will put 10 bucks that its your ignition module. As I posted in another post, the siminar I went to yesterday informed me that when vehicles top out at a certain speed(usually 60 or 70) and cant go any higher, and they wont rev past 2 or 3K its 4 out of 6 times the ignition module. You can still have a bad module and your vehicle run. You may have messed the module up when u had the cap off. Take it to Advanced Auto Parts and they will test it for free. Just my .02

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Bright red 87 GTA with I have stock 3.27 gears,2200 stall,B&M shift kit, TRW forged 9.75:1 pistons,comp cams pushrods, edelbrock valvesprings, 462 camel hump heads with 2.02in/1.60ex redrilled for angled plugs, 3 angle valve job, ported and polished, performer RPM intake, mallory fp regulator, edelbrock 750 CFM carb, hei ignition(new) with 40,000 volt coil,No cat, flowmaster 1 chamber mufflers, hedman 1 5/8 full length headers, edelbrock cam with 488/501

Best Run 1/8 mile 8.62 at 84MPH on street tires, Consistantly run 8.8. 60 foot times 2.3

 

Sounds like timing. Did you set the timing with the computer advance disconnected?

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1989 Iroc-Z 5.7 350, Blue, T-Tops

Lightly Moded:
Edelbrock Headers, Rebuilt B&M 700R-4 Tranny, Higher Stall Torque Converter, Airfoil, 3.4 w\posi, K&N's, Ported & Polished Plenum
-- Blue LED Bakelite Dash & Climate Control
- I am just some 17 Year old spending every dollar I make on my car.

 

well, i set the timing by disconnecting the four wire harness from the distributor. thats been the source of a lot of discrepancy, as everyone ive gone to disagrees but can't find a justifiable wire to disconnect. by the way, i have it set at zero degrees.

 

You disconnect the whole 4-wire connector, then set the timing.

To make sure you are getting spark advance from the ECM hook up the timing light with the advance connector STILL CONNECTED. Rev up the engine and watch the timing mark. You should see the timing mark show more advance as you rev the motor up, and then go back down when you let it go back to an idle. It should be an obvious amount of movement.

Another idea- are you secondaries getting open??? There is a lock-out that prevents the secondary throttle plates from opening on the passenger side of the carb that prevents them from opening until the choke is fully open. However, it sometimes gets stuck. Running on the primaries only will cause the engine to "nose over" real bad over 4000 RPMs.

I still don't think we're getting at the problem here but who knows?



[This message has been edited by Damon (edited November 29, 2001).]

 

On my car it is a one wire plug I am not sure about yours. Setting the timming to ) doesn't sound right. Check a shop manual to see what it is sapose to be set at.

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1989 Iroc-Z 5.7 350, Blue, T-Tops

Lightly Moded:
Edelbrock Headers, Rebuilt B&M 700R-4 Tranny, Higher Stall Torque Converter, Airfoil, 3.4 w\posi, K&N's, Ported & Polished Plenum
-- Blue LED Bakelite Dash & Climate Control
- I am just some 17 Year old spending every dollar I make on my car.