I have a 350 roller motor. The cylinder walls look pretty good (not enough of a lip to catch your fingernails on). I plan on rebuilding it as a 355 or possibly 383. What machine work would be needed/recomended to be done. I know that you have to bore it .030 over for either of those applications but what else should I have done. I want it done right. Does anyone have an estimate on cost for this work also. I am only referring to the block not the heads, I already have a pretty good idea about the heads.

Thanks

Ben

 

Have the motor checked for line bore. Decked and bored with a torque plate. You will also need some grinding to clear the 3.75 inch stroke on a 383.

 

I understand the others but what is having it checked for line bore?

Thanks

Ben

 

it basically determines if the the main saddles are on common centerlines. There is the process of checking the align bore, align honing and if you change main caps align boring. Align honing will not change the distance between the cam and crank so you don't have to worry about a shorter timing chain.

 

So is there anything else I should do. I have heard that you can have something done to your oil and coolant passages to free up some power?

Thanks for the info,

Ben

 

Well if you guys have any suggestions let me know as soon as possible because my needs just became immediate. My throttle stuck on my lg4 and it revved to about 5500. It now knocks like a mother. It is currently sitting in walmart parking lot. I have to go get it in the morning. I have another car to drive but want to drive it for as little time as possible. I really want the 383 but kind of doubt that I will be able to afford that on this kind of notice. Does anyone have any suggestions on a good rebuild kit for 355 or possibly 383. I posted a seperate topic but no one has answered me so I wondered if anyone knew about the parts from http://www.enginekits.com/383stroker.html or how about the summit kits. I need reliable parts but not necisarrily the most expensive on the market if you know what I mean. Also what kind of pistons should I use for a naturaly aspirated Iron headed mostly street motor that might see the track every once in a while.

Thanks for the help,

Ben

 

There is really no HP to be found in the cooling system as such. Some areas allow you to pickup fractional improvements but nothing major. Use a high quality WP like a stewart or edelbrock.

As far as oiling goes, the only places that you can pick up HP is in the oil pan by reducing windage. It takes several hours to properly configure a windage tray for a small block but, the results can be in the range of 10 to 15hp.

First make sure you have all the drain back holes opened as much as possible. Then start to look for an oil pan that will provide the maxmum amount of oil control for your combination (and still provide clearance). I used a moroso 20180 (but you have to remove the baffle if you run a windage tray).

 

Sorry about all of the questions but what is windage? What does the windage tray do? I have never built an engine before but I will have somone with many years experience helping me, I just want to learn what I can and figure out what I need.

Thanks

Ben

 

besides the line hone, decking the block and the over bore if you're running used rods might want to have them resized and the flash removed plus shot peened.

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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

Thanks for all of your help.

Ben

 

Windage is hp losses due to uncontrolled oil below the piston. IT can come from oil draining back on the crank and slowing it down or back on the cam. You need to keep the oil in the pan to know what is going on with it.

If we are also talking rod work, you want to have the center to center lengths checked and resized on the bigend if the rod has a lot of mileage. Plus new rod bolts.