I Put My Distributer back In tonight. I found #1 TDC and turned The Oil Pump so the distibuter would drop in pointing to the #1 plug. To get it to run I would have to turn the distributer So the vacuum advance was pointing strait at the valve cover. I didnt have enough adjustment so I decided to move the wires one space. After I moved the wires the vacuum advance would hit the Manifold When the timing was one.

Im Thinking I Was one space off when I dropped the distibuter in the first time.
How many different ways will the distributer drop In?

 

it will drop in as many gear teeth there are. The oil pump could turn and throw off what alignment you had. Just sticka really long screwdriver into the distributer hole and rotate the pump to where the rotor will be properly positioned.

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'86 IROC 5-speed
305 LG4
edelbrock performer rpm intake
edelbrock 600 cfm carb
msd pro billet hei distributer
'95 3.23 rearend
hotchkis rear suspension
PST front polygraphite suspension
"speed kills. buy a f@&d, live forever."

 

never mind

[This message has been edited by firbird (edited December 03, 2001).]

 

many!

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89 firebird formula


360 10:1compression (350 .060 over)/fully balnced and blueprinted
comp cams xe262 cam
performer rpm intake/port matched to heads
#1405edlebrock 600
sportsman 2 heads 64cc 2.02/1.60 valves 200cc intake runner/cnc pocket ported
msd 6al/msd8.5 super condutor wires
h.e.i. proform 50,000 volt vac. advance ditributor
700r-4 with 3.08 first gear and 3.73 7 5/8 rear end.
b trans shift kit(will kill shifts...suck dong!!)
shorty heddman hedders with custom 3" pipe y-pipe back(no damn cat!) with 40 series flowmaster!
griffin daul1" core rad.cutom fabrication to fit(but no cutting )


future mods: 406 roller REALLY REALLY REALLY RADICAL!!!!!.with lots of NOS

 

Many is good.

One of my problems is the aircleaner hits the distibuter If the distributer isnt perfect.

 

You want the distributor to be positioned in a sort of neutral position to allow rotation for timing purposes. The rotor itself can be in as many positions as on the camshaft gear teeth and distributor gear teeth.

#1 is usually set up at the left front on the distributor but can be on any position on the cap.

Put #1 cylinder at TDC by removing the spark plug and bumping the engine over until you feel the compression coming out. Check the timing marks and rotate the engine to get it as close to TDC or even better, your initial timing. If your initial timing is 10 degrees then rotate the balancer to the 10 degree mark (if it goes that high).

Pull the distributor cap off and look where the rotor is. If it isn't close then your distributor is out a tooth or so. If it is close then pull the rotor off and look at the magnetic pickup points. Rotate the distributor until they line up. Your distributor is now set and the engine is timed close enough that it should fire up. Reinstall the rotor, cap and wires and fire it up. Recheck the timing after the engine has warmed up.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block

Best ET on a time slip: 11.447 altitude corrected to 10.99
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.42 altitude corrected to 124.86
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 493
Best 60 foot: 1.586

Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

Thanks everybody for the help,

Stephen 87 IROC, That is the best description, I have read, Of how to Install a Distributer. I was not aware of pulling the rotor, to line up the points.

While were at it I have another question.
How do you check your total timing. I have a digital timing light That you just set the total timing you want and then line up the harmonic balancer line.
Is there a better or more accurate way?