I had my 383 built by them and no trouble so far, but I wasnt sure what they were all doing. But for my GF's 355 car , we are having the block bored 30 over with torque plate, align hone for use with arp studs. He said something about grinding in and around the oil filter housing area for more flow also. He said deck was good and that it would just need a "deck to clean" job. Should we have it zero'ed out? Also using spiral locks on the pistons instead of snap rings. He said they were better.. Internally balanced and also havin the front oil plug holes taped instead of the pressed in ones. I also told him to degree the cam too. We went with Wiseco pistons and Lunati Pro Mod rods since we both got them at a really good deal. Sticking with the stock 100K + crank. He shot peened it and mag it and it came out perfect. He also said it showed NO signes of wear and would clean up with a good polish. Should i have it knife edged? Whats do you gus recommend?

 

The mouth of the oil supply hole is commonly radiused to improve flow. Tapping the front oil galley holes for pipe plugs is pretty common too. If you want, you can also have some very small holes drilled in the plugs to increase oiling to the timing set. Opinions vary on whether it should be a single hole in the center plug or a hole in each of the outer plugs. Trash screens on the oil return holes are also a good idea. Another great trick is using petcocks instead of pipe plugs in the block drain holes, although you'll only be able to do it one one side if you need a knock sensor.

You could zero the deck to improve compression and quench if you want, but it's probably not that essential on a street build. The more you take off the less room you have available to clean it up on the next rebuild. Probably no point modifying a stock crank either, just polish the journals and use it as-is.