car won't start after head gasket job, fuel pump runs for about 30 seconds every time I try and start it, what is causing this?

 

My guess would be high oil pressure. The auxilliary oil pressure switch for the fuel pump will provide power to the pump at anything over 4 PSIG oil pressure. Unless you have somehow restricted an oil passage in your repair work (unlikely with just head replacement) it is normal. If the oil viscosity is higher, or you plugged in the switch and it hadn't been connected prior to the head work, that might explain the "change" in pump operation.

 

Does it run for 30 seconds when you turn the key to the "on" position or when you actually start the engine?

What's with the no-start part?

 

I'd guess OPSU as well. On my 1992, the OPSU went bad and the pump ran - always! But, I couldn't hear it, and spent weeks trying to figure out why my battery went dead every 3 days - turns out I was circulating fuel all day, all night, key in or not!

 

I did replace the oil pressure sending unit because the old one did not work, it works at the gauge now. The pump runs for 30 seconds after trying to start it with the key turned to off or on, Vader what do I do about it now? The oil was also milky when I drained it and I had poured some over the rockers when putting it back together. I have new oil in it. Right now the car won't start after head gasket, I have been working on dizzy issue and also this fuel pump running.

 

I tried again, pump still running on, any other ideas how to get it to not run for so long?

 

I wouldn't be too concerned with the fuel pump right now. Run on is supposed to occur as long as there is oil pressure. I know it probably doesn't get quite as cool there, but around here I can get my half-truck to run the pump for at least 30 seconds after shut down if I only start the engine and don't allow it to get fully warmed. I'm using 10W30 Mobil 1, and it's 3° here right now. Once it's warmed, normal run on of the pump is only about 5-10 seconds in cooler weather like this.

As for your failure to start, make sure the EST is bypassed. If there is any spark at all, you need to verify the timing. If there is no spark, you need to dig further.

 

I did a search, and everyone else knows what EST stands for, but I have no idea Is it one of the plug ins on the dist? Also should I just have a plug out near metal and crank it to check for spark?

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...ngtiming.shtml

tan wire = EST

and yes.

 

Keep all the plugs IN the engine if you plan to crank and check for spark, unless you like a flamable environment and sparks going off in your hand.

Use a spare plug.

Maybe you put the distributor in wrong, or one of the other million other things that can go wrong in a no-start condition.

 

dist. was off 180, so I have that in right now, car will start up but won't run, fuel pump runs and runs every time I try to start, I really don't know which wire is the est, is it the one with a connector that pugs in to the remote coil? Could the timing have anything to do with it, how can I set timing if it won't run

 

Your motor starts but won't run, you have spark, no need to check for it. Your timing is probably off , you may need to rotate the dizzy alittle in either direction before the motor will run without stalling.

Find the est wire (est = electronic spark timing). This is a tan wire with a black connector. Follow the wire harness near the a/c unit, the est wire will be sticking up through the protective plastic cover on the wire harness. Disconnect it , set up your timing light,
start the car and adjust timing to about 6 degrees before tdc. You may need to clean the timing pointer off so you can read the numbers.

 

all right, is it the first or second picture, the second has a tan wire with a black stripe that plugs into a black harness with another black wire, the first one is white? or tan with a gray connector

 

here is the second pic

 

not either of those, look all the way over to the left where the a/c unit is. its a round black connector about 2" long with one wire on either side.

 

thanks, I found it, unplugged it. been trying to start it and been rotating dizzy both ways still won't stay running , fuel pump still keeps running, could it be because I only have 1/4 tank? I am really ready to hear this thing run again...

 

Sounds like your dizzy is still off alittle. When the engine does run, is it smooth or does it cough and sputter and shake alot?

A 1/4 tank is more than enough, your fuel pump does shut off after a time, doesn't it?

 

it starts pretty smooth, then dies, if I try to give it gas it dies, fuel pump runs for about 30 seconds each time, I thought it could only fit in a cetain way, either totally off like I had it or right, is there more adjustment than can be made?

 

oh yes. you could be off by a tooth or two. maybe even more. there is no such thing as only going together one or 2 ways with the dizzy.