Hi, I replaced all of my sensors full tune up, all ignition new and still have a problem.

This is what my car does.
Its slow off a start, and than speeds up fast.
If I slow down to about 20mph and give it gas the car is just not responding to the pedal. It goes, but not with the same intensity. Than if I go down on it, it will downshift and speed up.
When I powerbrake the car I can not get past 1000rpms with the gas all the way down, in any gear.
When i shift it into park, the car will revv up to about 15-1700rpm and than drop to about 1200 1000rpms.
New ECM just put in and not much difference, but I can feel a bit of difference.

I need a direction where to go and what to do. If you know what causes any of these symptoms please help me out and let me know.
I have a fuel pump waiting to go in, so we'll see what happens with that.
However if anything was wrong with the fuel pump than it should have died 3-4 months ago when this started happening.

HELP

 

anyone!

 

Sounds like either a timing or fuel problem. Your idle speed flare, when you shift to park, is caused by the IAC attempting to keep the idle speed up with an engine that is not putting out the power it should. My first geuss would be timing. Followed by fuel pressure!

 

Well, those are the things I thought of but my timing is set at 4advance and the engine seems to be happy there.
Fuel preassure is something I did not check, but how can the car run with low preassure for over 4 months??? Its puzzling.

 

SIMPLE, a partially plugged strainer, plugged filter, bad regulator, weak pump, etc.

 

Ok, filter is new, TBI rebuilt with a new preassure regulator!

So it boils down to bad pump, partially clogged strainer. Maybe the FPR spring, but I dobut it!

Its been soo cold around here for a while now, so I have had no time to do the pump.
Maybe tommorow if the weather is ok.

Thanks.

I'll see what happens after the replacement.

 

the problem is you are guessing. get the right tools and check things out befor replacing (a simple running fuel psi test can save you so much time) just because the sensors are new does not mean they are even good (I can't tell you how many out of the box parts are junk) but finding the specific problem first saves time money.

 

Besides sensor problems, what kind of tq converter do you have?

-Jim

 

TQ is stock.
Ok, new 02, MSD coil, MSD cap and rotor, pluggs, pluggwires, distributor, IAC, TPS, MAP,CTS, new ECM, rebuilt TBI, new FPR.

I relocated my coil from the manifold to the A/C delted box and the car is actually running worse now. I got code 23, but I fixed it.

THere is a hiss coming straight from the TBI bores. I would give it gas than the hiss would follow it really fast and than stop. Like TBI is getting more air in or so. When this starts happening the car performs like crap.
Also, for first few minutes it drives pretty damn good! Than its downhill from there and I can hear the hiss.
I listend and I checked for vacum leaks, and the only hiss there is is coming from the TBI top of it. The bores.

I still find it hard to belive that I can ride on a bad pump for 4months.

I don;t know what to do...

 

is it a 305 tbi or 350 tbi?

also did you hookup a fuel pressure gauge and see what it's reading?? Rev the motor slowly and look for fluctuations in the psi. The pump may be fine at idle but not under load. also any trouble codes? if you jump the terminals on the aldl are you still getting a code 13. You may have a bad ecu

 

305 tbi

And it was a code 23 for the air temperature sensor. I fixed it already.
ANd its a brand new ACdelco ECM, just put it in yesterday!

No I could not find a preassure gauge/checker at any autopart stores around me. Like 6f'n stores.
I wish I knew somebody with one!

I looked at the cone and the consistancy as I revv, and the cone does not fluctuate or anything.

Maybe some fuel system cleaner would help..

 

My old CrossFire (TBI) eng was very sensitive to fuel press. Even being a half pound low on fuel press was noticeable. I ran like that that for a looong time. Beg, borrow, or steal a fuel press tester.

 

Well, heres how it goes.
I already have a brand new AC delco TPI pump with a new strainer right next to me now. So I will just replace it!!!
We'll see if that fixes the situation!

 

Wont a TPI pump be hard on the FPR?

They are designed to operate at a higher flow and pressure...

 

yeah a TPI pump would be no good on a TBI car, TPI is @40psi TBI is way way lower. Post on the TBI board to be sure.

-Jim

 

yes he is right, since you have a tbi, a carb, the pressure is going to be a lot lower than a tpi, fuel injection. make sure if you can borrow or buy a tester, make sure that it is for a carb to give you an accurate reading

 

Fuel pressure is a function of how much the regulator lets back to the tank, not the pump itself. So, a TPI pump isn't going to cause any problems with a TBI system.

 

Oh, I already read whole bunch of threads, and TPI pump will work perfect with the FPR. There are a lot of people on the TBI board that are running the TPI pump without a problem.
Since I already have the pump there is really no point in investing in the equipment to test it.
I already went to JY and check the camaros and birds there and I found few with the access holes done. So I practiced on one there and I think thats the way I am gonna go.

Thanks. I'll let you know what happens.

 

The reason for investing in the test equipment is so you'll know whether all the work you're about to do is going to make any difference.

I am no advocate of cutting up the car body, but even if that is "easier" than dropping the tank to replace the pump (I'd argue that it is not), it's a lot harder than finding out whether or not the fuel pressure is the issue.

 

Do you wanna come down and help me to do it right??? (not sarcastic at all)

 

Not particularly. But, I may be able to come over with my fuel pressure gage (although I know next to nothing about the particulars of TBI).

 

Check ur pm

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by xlwhellraiser
[B]I relocated my coil from the manifold to the A/C delted box and the car is actually running worse now. I got code 23, but I fixed it.

Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the coil get its ground from being mounted on the intake manifold?

 

Thats what I thought after I moved it. So I went JY and took some connectors. However, I drove it for a while and the car was fine. With same symptoms and the coil was not nearly as warm. Which is why I moved it in the first place.

 

Now that I look at the coil I don't think that its getting the ground from the intake. Its all plastic around the coil. The tip is the only metal thing sticking out. I am thinking that its not!

 

http://www.worldisround.com/articles/12533/photo14.html



This may help if you really want to cut a whole in your floor.
.

 

There is a cable that runs from the drivers side of the TBI unit to the passenger side of the tranny that tells the Tranny the position of the Throttle. AFAIK this is to tell the tranny to down shift when you open up the throtle. At least that is my educated guess. If this cable is damaged or no longer attached this may be a reason for your problems. Worth a quick shot to check it out.

If i get a chance i will locate some pictures and send them.

Oh BTW the tranny side of this cable is a PITA to get to with out lowering the Tranny at least a few inches.

The best way to check it is to remove it from the connection at the throttle plate (be carefull it is plastic. to release it pull the cable towards the front of the engine not out to the side) on the drivers side of the TBI unit and pull on it to feel if it has tension and then make sure it pulls back. It is "spring loaded" so it should go back to at least idle position.

I could be way off but IMO its worth a five minute check.

 

Would that make me idle funny??

I reset the cable, and everytime I moved it the shift points were moved! Do you think that if the cable is off the transmission would still shift???

I will check it, but I doubt thats it.
Thanks though

 

There is one and ONLY one way to set the TV cable on a 700r4, IF you want your transmission to live!!!! Depress the adjustment tab, slide the cable all the way to the rear of the car toward the firewall, now release the Tab, Open the TBI all the way by hand, you will hear a ZIPP, IT is now set, LEAVE IT ALONE!!!! Do not use the TV cable to control shift points, it does much more than that. If the line pressure fails to rise the instant you go off-idle you will burn the clutches!

 

Oh I know man. The only reason I moved it around was beacause I thought that the cable came off.! Its set the right way, but instead of pulling the throttle down I flooerd the pedal all the way down. So now when I floor it, its response is very good.

To let the car take off right as it used to I have to let the car start moving a bit, and than when I floor it, it actually moves the front end up. I used to be able to do this from idle before but it aint happening anymore.

Also, I get stuck no matter what gear, at 1000rpms when I try to do a burnout.
Since my ignition is new and it worked untill this happened it must be a fuel pump, but we'll see.