So I decide to get SLP headers. The y-pipe doesnt work with the milodon oil pan.

I banged the oil pan a little, and ovaled out the y-pipe. fits now, but the dipstick I think is rubbing against the windage tray (part of the pan).

Headers leak like nothing else.

Steering shaft rubs the header. I try moving column over. No luck. remove header, and dent primary.

Put back on with new gaskets. (metal laminate, 1.350" x 1.500"). Still leak/tick.

Tune is way off. car runs soo rich, the cat turns the exhaust into white smoke, and the smoke is soo full of fuel it burns your eyeballs and makes you gask for air! Plug laptop in. When I reinstalled windows, I forgot to put the bin definitions back on, so I couldn't retune.

Oh, and the motor has a really light, sometimes intermittant knock. It's not as loud as a rod or crank bearing, but louder than a lifter. I don't know if the crank is tapping the windage tray, or if a bearing is about to go south.

Oh, and the oil pan leaks now.

Anyone wanna buy my car before I torch it?

-- Joe

 

when the y-pipe hit the oil pan is when i would have given up and either got another set of headers, or bought a new oil pan...sounds like you jimmy-rigged some things and now things don't line up or seal properly...i wouldn't have done that....

 

I woulda bought a new oil pan in a heart beat if I could swap it in the car. This oil pan was a nightmare enough getting it to snake around the pickup on the engine stand (cuz of the built in tray), it aint coming out on the lift.

The headers are SLP, but regardless of that, it wasn't an f-body oil pan, so it didnt matter. My hedmans hit it too, so I made my own hedman y-pipe, but the SLP pipe is ceramic coated so I didnt wanna cut it up.

When the motor makes the knocking sound, I feel it in the dipstick but no other place, so I'm guessing the crank is taping the windage tray ever so lightly. So thats gotta come off.. I really wish there was an easy way to do it on the lift. I dont want to take the motor out.

-- Joe

 

i understand how that goes...got my brand new motor in the car only to take it back out after running only 20mins cause i screwed some stuff up...

 

Hey Joe give me $25 and I will take it off your hands

 

I drove my newly rebuilt HI PRO 350 with 700 miles on it 2000 miles home and I had to replace an intake gasket and a high pressure steering hose. Not too bad but it could have been worse.

 

mine still has 0 miles on the new motor...20mins of break-in time only...

 

I guess I'll yank the motor out tomorrow, and put a stock pan on it. I hope I have one lying around some where.

Anyone have any idea offhand where I can get a leakdown tester over the counter? I'm curious if my skip is a ring issue. Compression test passes, and tonight I pumped up the coolant system to 25psi and it didnt go down. Released pressure, than ran car to near operating temp and the need doesnt bounce, or exceed 10-12psi really. So I guess the block / head gasket is ok in terms of coolant sealing.

-- Joe

 

try pulling the oilstick out with the engine running if the tick quits the oilstick itself is hitting the crank ,i ran into this prob. on a 91 350 engine ,tube had gotten bent where it goes in the block hit windage tray ,bent oilstick into the crank.hope this helps jimmy

 

Thats too funny

I'm laughing at u anethese lol

Only cause the same damn thing happened to me when I swapped the 383(Milidon deep pan) in, went to bolt up the exhaust(of course its the last thing lol) and guess what. It dont fit no more.

That fried me alsmot as much as shelling out for a new mandrel bent crossover to fit it right and not choke the engine.

I would definitely try pulling the dipstick out and/or pulling the whole tube out from the engine and sealing it temporarily.

I had it happen to me and a few friends, so cross your fingers and check all the dumb stuff out good for you yank it again.

later
Jeremy

 

Actually, the other day I fired it up, and it started making a CRAZY sound. It was the dipstick hitting the crank. I've verrified with the dipstick out it still makes the knocking noise, so I think its the windage tray. I flattened out the curved part of the oil pan with a huge hammer, so I'm sure the windage tray is just barely touching the crank.

Besides that, the pan warped and it's leaking now out of the front, so it needs to come off anyway. I remember when I first got the SLP's a month or two ago, I read a post we're you were complaining of the same problem and I was like "c'mon. gimme a break".

-- Joe

 

found a nice stock size pan on ebay,i think it was thru racer's outlet.2 oil control gates,windage tray,and a crank scraper welded on !got it for like $36 but when they found out what they sold it for they raised the price!i think they're about $50 now.nice pan though!
Eric B