cylinders...
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From: michigan
Car: 84 Camaro
Engine: 350
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Axle/Gears: 3.42 spool on the way
cylinders...
im puttin in my piston and rods and there is a little bit or oil and degreaser in the cylinders? im going to clean them out the best i can but will little amounts ruin my engine?
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
You need to clean that block with a mild detergent and scrub it until your arm almost falls off.
Then you need to rinse it off with all the water in the Atlantic Ocean.
Then you need to blow dry it with enough air pressure to fill the Goodyear Blimp.
Then, after all that, you need to wash it again until your arm DOES fall off.... rinse it off with all the water in the Pacific Ocean, then blow dry it with enough air pressure to move Mt. Everest.
Then coat all machined surfaces with oil to prevent them from rusting because they will begin to rust right away.
Oil on the cylinder walls is a good thing. Degreaser is very bad.
Then you need to rinse it off with all the water in the Atlantic Ocean.
Then you need to blow dry it with enough air pressure to fill the Goodyear Blimp.
Then, after all that, you need to wash it again until your arm DOES fall off.... rinse it off with all the water in the Pacific Ocean, then blow dry it with enough air pressure to move Mt. Everest.
Then coat all machined surfaces with oil to prevent them from rusting because they will begin to rust right away.
Oil on the cylinder walls is a good thing. Degreaser is very bad.
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Originally posted by muteboy49
looks like i gotta pull the 4 i got in back out...ahhhhhhhhh
looks like i gotta pull the 4 i got in back out...ahhhhhhhhh
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
I wouldn't call leaving the crank in "rebuilding", but regardless of what you've done up until now, you have to pull the crank and the main bearings before you wash the block.
And use assembly lube when you put it all back together.
Keep all main caps positioned correctly, put them back where they came from, along with the bearings. Everything needs to be put back exactly where it came from and exactly how it came out.
And use assembly lube when you put it all back together.
Keep all main caps positioned correctly, put them back where they came from, along with the bearings. Everything needs to be put back exactly where it came from and exactly how it came out.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
If you're rebuilding you should have had it spotlessly cleaned as AJ_92RS describes before starting reassembly.
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From: michigan
Car: 84 Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: dont have one yet
Axle/Gears: 3.42 spool on the way
wait let me rephrase that lol. its a new build i just put the crank in the block is clean already and yes i used assembly lube
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
if I remember your previous thread you're just re-ringing right? no machine work at all?
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
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Engine: Sb2.2 406
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Originally posted by AJ_92RS
You need to clean that block with a mild detergent and scrub it until your arm almost falls off.
Then you need to rinse it off with all the water in the Atlantic Ocean.
Then you need to blow dry it with enough air pressure to fill the Goodyear Blimp.
Then, after all that, you need to wash it again until your arm DOES fall off.... rinse it off with all the water in the Pacific Ocean, then blow dry it with enough air pressure to move Mt. Everest.
You need to clean that block with a mild detergent and scrub it until your arm almost falls off.
Then you need to rinse it off with all the water in the Atlantic Ocean.
Then you need to blow dry it with enough air pressure to fill the Goodyear Blimp.
Then, after all that, you need to wash it again until your arm DOES fall off.... rinse it off with all the water in the Pacific Ocean, then blow dry it with enough air pressure to move Mt. Everest.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
no... didn't you pay attention ? got the ocean nearby? 
ARE you just re-ringing? are you not getting machine work? I wasn't sure if that was you....
if that's the case, you are deglazing it also right? so wash that junk off (diesel, or whaever you used...), then oil the cylinder walls and assemble. Also use assembly lube for the other bits.

ARE you just re-ringing? are you not getting machine work? I wasn't sure if that was you....
if that's the case, you are deglazing it also right? so wash that junk off (diesel, or whaever you used...), then oil the cylinder walls and assemble. Also use assembly lube for the other bits.
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From: michigan
Car: 84 Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: dont have one yet
Axle/Gears: 3.42 spool on the way
yes i did not have machine work. my block is already clean. and yes i have honed and will rehone the cylinders then put oil in the cylinders and re assemble it.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
It would be a good idea to clean the whole block again after honing to make sure that absolutely no abrasive particles are left hiding somewhere.
Rebuilding usually involves cleaning multiple times.
Rebuilding usually involves cleaning multiple times.
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi w/Disc
Some people do the block wash in a car wash pit. That's cool, too. Just be sure to dry off the block AS SOON AS HUMANLY POSSIBLE when cleaning at the car wash. Also, oil down the block before even driving home, then wrap it in plastic until you're ready to build. Do not even try to drive the clean block home until after it's oiled down. A nice orange rust can form in less than 2 minutes on clean, wet iron. I've had it happen, only not to a block.
Last edited by PhLaXuS; Jan 10, 2006 at 09:36 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: michigan
Car: 84 Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: dont have one yet
Axle/Gears: 3.42 spool on the way
ok pistons in and all that with oil on the cylinders. i put a garbage bag over the block. how long before the cylinders start rusting? i dont know when ill get around to working on my heads
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi w/Disc
As long as you keep oil on all bare surfaces, it will never rust. You can try coating the cylinder walls with oil and then plastering the inside of the cylinders with plastic wrap. The plastic wrap will hold the oil in place and not let it drain away from the cylinder surfaces.
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From: colorado
Car: 1992 Trans/am convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 drum WS6
My 350 has been sitting on my porch for over 10 months and there is no spot of rust on the block.
Heads on the other hand were not soo lucky.
Heads on the other hand were not soo lucky.
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi w/Disc
Sorry...I meant machined surfaces. Bare should have rusted, but the machined ones are what matters because the slightest layer of rust can ruin the close tolerances.
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