I've been trying to figure out how to set the timing properly for about a week or two now, and I still can't seem to figure it out.

Today I spent five hours doing random tasks (such as removing spark plugs, v-belts, wires, ect.) to get the engine set up to set the timing just right. I got the rotor pointing just shy right of pointing directly at the #1 cylinder, and manually rotated the crank timing mark to match the "0" degree indicator on the harmonic balancer to where it was exactly where it needed to be.

After reconnecting everything, I try to start the car up, and it just countinually cranks but never fires. I get out of the car, just start tinkering with the distributor and turn it about 1/8" counterclockwise. It seemed to be more willing to start, but would stall every time once again. I turn it slightly further counterclockwise again, this time it starts up and seems fine, but I turn it off again and then crank it back up to make sure. It starts back up and the RPMs seem a little high.

But anyway, basically what I was wondering was if this sounded like everything is working like it should (minus the timing being off)? Why would the distributor need turning if I lined the rotor up to the #1 cylinder like everyone suggests? And what four-pin connector is the emissions label under the hood referring to? The only connectors I see are at the right side of the cap, and it's two single-wire connectors next to each other in front of a two-wire connector. Is this what I need to disconnect to set base timing?

 

Setting timing with your electronic advance still connected, with the car running, will freak the hell out of your computer I'm sure. I dont know if yours is different but my old 3.1 had a single-wire connector on the passenger fender, it was a brown wire. Should only be a single wire deal, since all youre doing to disable the electronic advance is breaking a connection.

Mark where your rotor points at #1, on your intake mani or something, with a ruler if possible for accuracy. Make sure the motor is at #1 TDC, compression stroke. Turn the engine over by hand, and using the marks on the balancer, keep going until it reads your desired base timing, lined up with the indicator. Put the cap on the dist, and turn it until it lines up with the #1 mark you drew earlier. Should have your approx. base timing set then, +/- maybe 2 degrees.

 

Try using a timing light, it will take you a lot less time. Then you can figure out if its your timing thats bad or something else.

 

I'm pretty sure that single tan wire with the black stripe is an EFI thing only, because I looked all over my engine bay trying to find it, and then came here and read that the carb'd cars don't have that.

In any case, I'm pretty sure I have everything set up to the point where I can set it with a timing light, I just need to know if the "4-pin connector" is the set of wires that plug into the right side of the distributor cap. I'm almost 100% it is, but I want to be sure.

 

I am not claiming to be any kind of authority on carbed engines, but if I remember right the carbed version of the EST wire is a vacuum line to the distributor. Just be sure to plug both ends.

 

That is non-computer controlled distributors. Mine is computer controlled.

 

I have an 85 z28 with an lg4 and to set the timing on my car I had to disconect the est plug with four wires on the distibutor. When you do that the car will not want to run so you have to set the idle up to the spec on the label under the hood. Then you set the timing , I set mine at 6 degees advanced and it is like I put a new motor in. But to get back to setting the timing , once you set it where you want it you will plug the est back in , readjust your idle and reset the check engine light by removing the negative battery cable for ten minutes or so.

 

My LO3 takes quite a few crancks to start at 0 degrees. Advancing it helped tremendously.
Its worth looking into!