I found a similar post that described my problem quite well. I dregged it up from tha past. Unfortunately, I did not get much of a response but the writer of the original post did.

Anyone have any ideas in this forum that could have caused my problem. Like I mentioned in the post below - it started after I splashed the front part of the engine with water while filling the Rad.

Previous post:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=332312


Any ideas?

 

No TPI wizards on this board?

 

Hey, do I need to shave my legs to get an answer on this board?

This used to be a great source to find an answer to your problems. I left and come back to find out that I must do (or be) someone special to get my question answered.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=347613

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=332312

 

First, your problem was not quite the same. You have a TPI. The old thread you replied in was for a TBI system. While many things are the same, there can be some differences that could contribute to the problem you described.

Second, some people might have mistaken you for "smiley21" who isn't very well liked in some circles - Mainly "frowner10" through "frowner86" and that bunch.

One responder suggested testing fuel pressure. I'd agree that would be a good start. Incorrect pressure can cause a poor open loop operation, while in closed loop the ECM will correct as much as it can for incorrect pressure. The same happens with vacuum leaks.

Another posted suggested checking the ignition system.

Both of those are sound advice. I don't see how you can consider that being ignored.

 

Thank you for the response. No I am by far the smiley21 - I have offered much assistance here in the past - as a moderator may be able to see. I guess - unless it can be publicly noted - my name is ruined without doing anything.

Anyway. as to the responses - they were not for me - note one user quoted the original post i dragged up from the past.

As to my problem, It has a new fuel pump, new tank - no problems at top end RPM range (fuel presure is also noticeable here). The second post you mentioned suggested a tuneup (rather than ignition system) and it may or may not have been directed to my problem.

The whole top end of the motor was re-wired.

The key point of my problem is that it started after I blasted the front of the motor with water - WHY? - What could I have hit that blew it out? Is there a sensor up there that could cause this effect? I have tried a different MAF - but the water didnt reach that height.

 

BTW Vader. I do remember you as one of the great wizards of this board.

You and Trickster for electronics

 

Is it wet inside the distributor cap? You may want to use a can of compressed air or something to make sure it's all dry...

 

check the distributor cap mine did something similiar. I had 2 points inside that were damaged pretty bad. So i replaced the cap and rotor button and no more problems

 

Sensors mounted toward the front of the engine would be the CTS, MAF, TPS, and if you were to have one, the Cold Start control. It is also possible that water somehow affected the A.I.R. diverter valve and is holding it open. There is also a remote possiblity that the air filter element got wet. That will restrict air flow significantly, but I can't understand why that would improve with the engine warming up.


I'm not certain if your legs need a shave or not. I know I don't want to be the one to make that determination.

 

In the process of resealing the TPI, did you service the injectors? Check the FPR? Did you test or replace the MAT while the plenum was removed?

Moreover, are there any error codes present if you scan the ECM?

 

Thank you for the replies:
1. Since the infamous smiley21 was a joke - I need to update my profile DOH!

2. I have not checked the Dist. since it is so far back - I did not expect it would have got hit by the water. I have been running this car handycapped like this for over 8 months now - so I would hope it dried up by now. But I will check as it is a legitimate point.

3. I have checked the MAF - I will check the other 2 sensors and I will need to do some research to find out if it has a "Cold Start" control ( it does have the infamous 9th Injector).

4. What is the FPR? and MAT?

5. No codes are generated - it is a wiring nightmare I have been cleaning up as I go. Somone put an 87 "Painless" wiring harness on it and did not route the wires correctly. IE. Computer is sitting on top of the shock tower.

6. I would have loved to do the injectors at the same time - but I needed to use the car

7. Shaving my legs didnt make a difference. I got responses before I shaved them.

 

FPR - Fuel Pressure Regulator

MAT - Manifold Air Temperature sensor.

Niether of those are near the front of the engine, but may contribute to your problem.

The lack of error codes would indicate that the sensors are at least withing an acceptable range.

the fact that it runs normally when warmed and in closed loop woudl point to a fuel delivery or mixture problem more than an ignition problem. However, it is always good to verify a sound ignition when dealing with rogue problems.

If you have the 9th injector, you have (or at least should have) a cold start control. It is located next to the CTS on the front coolant corossover on the intake base. If the cold start control or wiring are firing the 9th injector, the mixture would be very rich when in open loop mode and the ECM would try to compensate for that in closed loop mode. An easy way to check is to unplug the 9th injector once the engine is running. If operation doesn't change, it probably isn't being operated when it shouldn't. That doesn't mean it isn't leaking, but the control side should be good.

 

THX - I got a lot to check out tomorrow.