Alright folks, about two days ago I was out driving, only had three little bars on my fuel gauge (just got paid), was on my way to the gas station, going about 45 mph, and all the sudden the car stopped accelerating, (foot still on the gas) it's like I took my foot off the gas pedal (but I didnt) and then put my foot on it again, I figured this happened because I was so low on fuel, doesnt happen the rest of the day.

The next night I was coming home, and it did it again. (Full Gas Tank)

This morning and this evening I was driving and my car started stalling while driving, I look at my speedometer and the numbers are flickering between 150/70/56/80, just a bunch of random numbers, (Digital Cluster) The speedo was switching between MPH and Kmh also. While this was going on, i was franticly pressing the gas pedal to the floor and back, and when I pushed the pedal, the car started to jerk and sounded bogged down, then all the sudden it stopped and it ran like normal, speedo and all.

So, I went to autozone and tried to find out what was wrong, they said they had seen this kind of thing happen before, and that it was my Throttle Position Sensor, a 60$ part.

This has happened on three different occasions, it only happens for a couple of seconds, while driving, then stops.

I just installed new speakers front and back, but that shouldnt have anything to do with it should it?

Any suggestions?

 

Well i cant imagine the TPS causing your cluster to jump around like that....one thing you can do is test the TPS yourself with a DVOM(voltmeter). The TPS is a three wire device. One wire(gray i believe) is a 5 volt input. another is the signal wire(blue i think) and last a ground(should be black).
Check the black wire and be sure it is grounded. Check the gray wire and be sure it has 5 volts to it (KEY ON).
If that checks out...put the black lead of the volt meter on the black ground...and put the red lead of the voltmeter on the blue (signal) wire.
With the key on/engine off...and the throttle fully closed it should read .5 volts.
Open the throttle all the way.....it should read 4.9-5.0 volts.
If that all checks out, close the throttle, then while keeping an eye on the voltmeter, open the throttle very slowly and smooth.....the voltage should gradually increase alll the way to 5 volt at wide open throttle. If at any time while opennig the throttle (SLOWLY AND SMOOTH) the voltmeter reads open or OL or 0....the TPS is defective. If it all checks out....the TPS is fine. It helps to have a couple of T pins when testing voltages...slide the T pin along side the wire into the plug....dont strip or cut or stab wires.
The TPS plug has to be plugged in while doing this..

I dont think your issue is a TPS...it sound more like a bad ground somewhere...check your ground wires...check your ECM grounds...I think youll find something there...

 

Nobody else has any thoughts on what this might be?

 

Alright folks, went to Autozone to see if they could figure out was was wrong with my car.

My car has started to stumble horribly while driving and has now gotten to the point of dying on me sometimes when I stop at a red light or something.

You can get the full details here: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=348603

Since I only got one response I decided to go the process of elimination route.

At Autozone I had them check the Alternator and Battery, they both turned out to be good. But then we discovered another problem.

Turns out one of my spark plug wires are shooting out a spark a good two inches outward from the wire itself, so now I gotta replace a whole set of wires. I learned that's why my car has been running so rough lately, cylinder misfiring and whatnot.

Another problem, after we took out the battery and put it back in, I started the car, then turned on the headlights, I noticed that the radio and the heat/AC lights all shut off, but I could still hear music and air was still blowing! I could change the volume and station just fine but the clock wasnt even on,it was all dark, and I could change the heat and stuff just fine too.

When I turned the headlights off, everything popped right back on! but when I turn them on again, it all goes dim again, is this a blown fuse or a short circuit? Will it do the same to an aftermarket radio?

Radio and AC/Heat controls lit up fine before I took the battery out, but after the battery was put back in is when this crap started.

Finally, when I started the car once again, the oil pressure immediately dropped below 30 all the way to 0, the car then died on me and my SES light came on, it continued to die on me until we finally got it home.

Low oil? Pressure sender unit busted cutting off the engine?
Dont know what's causing this.

I dont know what to do

 

You have a connection problem(s). Unless the AutoZone you frequent has ASE Certified Techicians with an Electrical/Electronic Systems endorsement, they may not be able to help you. Load the suspect circuits, and check for voltage differential around connection points, fusible links, etcetera.

You have a connection problem(s), and it/they could be anywhere. Since you recently removed and installed the battery, and the symptoms changed after that, I'd suggest you start by checking the grounds from the battery to the chassis, and the positive power lead to the power node on teh left fender. And that is just a start.

 

Definatley a short or bad connection somewhere. By your first post I'd almost be 100% sure that it was at your ECM/Block grounds on the back of the engine. But after your second post...after your replaced your battery, it could be anywhere. Vader's right. Start at your battery ground. Work your way to the battery connections themselves, then to your fusible links. Work all around your charging system. Check the grounds to the back of your block. Look around your engine bay for melted wires. Jiggle connections. You should find it.

 

I would inpect the conditions of the cables as well. Look for any cracked insulation and corosion.