Lately the car hasn't been performing as well as it should. Some hesitation, no low end power (I can't spin the tires like I used to) and this morning the car wouldn't even start. I finally got it to start as I was pumping the gas peddle. And it was the only thing I could do to stop of from dying. Well, I gave up and went to work thinking the fuel pump died. Well just now I went out to try it again and it started up with no problems no hesitation. I actually started it 3 or 4 times to be sure. Every time it started right on cue. So I took it for a drive, but the hesitation is more pronounced nowespecially in idle, if I rev it. I changed the fuel filter 6 months ago and only put on 3K miles since then. Vacuum lines are all connected.

Does this sound like a bad pump? Or is it something else in the fuel system? Would a bad fuel pump cause the bad performance? Does the fuel pump start to go bad at the the beginning and end of WOT? Meaning it will hesitate and not spin the tires like it should, but eventually go, but towards the shift point it will kinda ease off eventhough my foot is planted?

Please help.

Thanks!!!

 

Tried the fuel filter? I know when my TBI pump died, it gave very little warning. I was on the road about an hour into a 2 hour trip, and it cut out on me. I restarted it, ran fine, then tried to cut out on the road, like it was running out of gas. About 20 minutes of this acting as I was out of gas (and in the middle of nowhere), and then it just died, and never restarted. I had finally made it to the edge of the next town, and a gas station, and it was totally dead, but at least in the parking lot. I had to get someone to come get me, and return the next weekend to get it back.

I used an electric fuel pump from a 1989 Dodge Conquest, and cut it inline on the fenderwell under the hood, connected wire to hot-in-run, and she fired up and drove home - sucking fuel through the old dead pump. I drove it daily like this for a month before I had time to get the new pump installed. If you fear the pump, get an old electric pump that you can connect inline and keep it in the trunk with some hose, connectors and clamps, and wire - then you'll be set if/when it goes out.

But, I ask about the filter because, my car acted this way when I had the "rigged" Conquest pump attached, when it was sucking through the dead pump, thus a restriction in flow. In your case, the restriction might be in the fuel filter.

 

when was the last time u did a full tuneup? fuel injector cleaning?

any codes showing?

fuel pumps usually dont give u warning. at least not in my experience.

 

Already did the filter.

llvll, no codes at all. It just started w/i the last 2 weeks. I'm sure it needs a tuneup. So the pump will not gradually stop working?

 

u never know with cars. both pumps ive replaced on mine have died while the car was off. tried to start it and nothing. luckily it was close to either my house or workplace.

i'd do a full tune up first. or at least start with the plugs. check under the hood for any loose connections/sensors, broken wires, throttle body blades free of carbon buildup, all the basic stuff first.

 

I've had fuel pumps slowly go bad on two of my F-bodies. The problem manifests itself at higher throttles. Pressing the "gas" pedal will not help in the case of a bad fuel pump because what you are really adding is air, which the lack of fuel cannot keep up with and you will run lean. Basically, I don't think the pump is your problem, but if you want to be sure get a fuel pressure tester.

 

Now, I thought a bit about it after it started fine again this morning. I remember how it felt with bad gasoline. Very underpowered and wouldn't downshift. This feels the exact same way. I will see if the pump gives me more problems in the meantime, but will wait for the bad gas to get out.

Another thing I'm hearing is a ticking. It doesn't sound like an engine knock, but an exhaust leak at the front of the passenger side of the motor. How can I test to make sure it's an exhaust leak and not knock?

If the motor is toast, the search for an LS1 motor is on.

 

BIG SCREWDRIVER! Or, a stethescope - will tell you mucho. Big screwdriver (long length) you can put the plastic end to your ear, and place the metal tip anywhere on motor - even noises you can't hear you'll hear, as the vibrations through the screwdriver vibrate your eardrum. You can set it on a valve cover where a rocker is, or on the exhaust manifold at each port, etc. and listen - and pinpoint many noises easily. As with anything - BE CAREFUL where you stick it! LOL

 

Check the codes anyhow . Sometimes a code will set , but no SES light . I had my dads 305 TBI do this and , it was the CTS sensor .

 

Yea (like the bible yea) and the Starion/Conquest lives on...


I loved mine.... Lousy Florida emissions testing that went away 2 months after I had to sell it because it didn't have a cat and I couldn't pass emissions....