are there any clearances i need to check before installing a stud girdle? also- do i need to order longer screw in studs for the rockers? is a rocker stud girdle even needed for 6500rpms, a cc306 cam, 1.6 rockers, and 3/8 studs?

 

All you need are the proper poly locks (taller) and adequate clearance under the valve covers really. However, in your case, it's probably not worth it. I would do the 7/16" studs before the stud girdle.

 

i was kind of thinking 7/16 would have been the way to go. however- i found a hell of a deal on a set of 3/8 rockers and bought them. my heads are already machined for 3/8's studs. so- my theory was it would be cheaper and more or less just as effective to buy a stud girdle rather than paying to have the heads machined, selling the other rockers, and buying new rockers.

 

taller valve covers
poly locks



look into BTE's stud girdle, far cheaper then the rest, and good quality.

It'll help you, but won't provide huge gains in the lower end of RPMs.


your heads are machined for 7/16 NC threads, if it's got 3/8"NF or 7/16" NF threads above, your heads don't know the difference.
(however, the pricey-er rockers is what would kill ya)

 

i don't follow

 

you've had your heads machined for screw in studs right?
those threads are 7/16"NC threads. A tapped hole.

Now if you put in a collared rocker stud, (a " 3/8" stud), it has a 7/16"NC base, then gets skinnier, and has a 3/8"fine thread at the top. Then you put on a 3/8" rocker, and 3/8" rocker nuts (poly locks, whatever.)

OR

you buy 7/16" rocker studs, same 7/16"coarse thread rocker stud base, but it doesn't get skinnier (to be 3/8" above the collar), it stays 7/16", just has fine threads above the collar.

ie, you don't have to remachine your heads, just thought i'd make sure you know that. However, 7/16" rockers are much more expensive, so you're still in the same boat.

 

i gotcha. make's sense. i wasn't aware of that. i thought the hole in the heads was either 3/8" or 7/16". learn something new every day. either way- you are right- i would have to step up rockers. i think i will just get a girdle and call it good. much easier and quite a bit less expensive- not to mention the fact that it's debatable as to if i even need the girdle- let alone larger studs.

 

7/16" studs are the same price as 3/8", at least ARP's are. Teh cost to get 7/16" rocker is where the expense part would come in.

 

IHI was giving me some info on his setup;
I think he's got 3/8" studs, and a BTE stud girdle. 11.0 second car I think, with his 383.
BTE stud girdle, not the cheapo U bolt style, is only $59. Every other stud girdle I could find was $140-$220ish. U bolt style as low as $110. Really good price.
CC306 eh? do you already have it? If you are getting stud girdles, you could go to a solid roller cam.... Just a thought.

 

already have the cam and the lifters. thought about going solid roller- but the extra rpm's won't do me a lot of good. to make use of that extra rpm- i would need to spend more money on port work on my heads- not to mention the added cost of solid roller conversion. besides i don't know if i should be turning too many rpms on a scat 9000 series crank. i am just hoping for any kind of 11.x pass. i think i will be able to do it. HSR, CC306, Pro1 Heads with a little port work, beehive springs, afr rev kit, 383cu., 3.73 rear, cheater slicks, qa1's, moroso trick springs- all in my s10- which doesn't weigh much of anything.

 

does the bte unit come with new/longer adjustable poly locks?

 

not sure, I wouldn't think so, but email them and ask.

 

My heads have the 7/16" studs and that is correct either a 3/8" or 7/16" will thread into the head as the base threaded area is the same diameter. If your going to run a high spring pressure solid roller 7/16" is the way to go no doubt, but if your using a flat tappet either hyd or solid and a reasonably tame hyd roller the 3/8" stud will be plenty.

Stud girdles are sold by themselves so you must buy taller poly locks seperately. BTE carries all of this for a reasonable price to make it a one stop shop. Just let the sales rep know you need the taller poly locks for a sbc and not a bbc, we ordered teh wrong one and reiceved bbc locks...WAAY too tall to fit under my tal cast valve covers. sent 'em back and got the right ones.

DO NOT uses any girdle with the dated U bolt system. Major PITA when setting vlaves. BTE and many other manufacturers offer self containted internally spring loaded girdles so you only have 4 bolts to back off-1 bolt per set of valves.

Price for girdle is for a pair to do both heads, price for poly nuts is EACH.
http://bteracing.com/OnlineCatalog/P...tID=1448894948

 

girdle is $59, polylocks are $60. Good deal

"Comes with 12-point polylocks for easy adjustment" hmm, now that would be too good to be true...

 

yeah- i was thinking that

 

We broke our fancy valve lash tool with the built in allen wrench so I've always just put the box end of the 9/16" wrench on the poly nut for adjustment. It does get kind of tight on driver side by pwr brk booster, but you can manage.

Think it's a 7/32" allen wrench for lock and it's 9/16" for nut.

When i set mine I get it close to final adjustiment, lock down allen screw, and then just use the wrench to creep up on it. helps to set everything tight so there's less chance of it backing off. Just need to get a padded wrench handle since sometimes I set'em a lil too tight before final creeping stages