Pin in head studs? screw-in head studs?
#1
Pin in head studs? screw-in head studs?
can you do your own pin in head studs? or tap for the screw-ins, some one said to weld them in, i dont think that will work, how strong are pin in head studs? im going for cheap
#2
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Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Pinning is very easy. When I had my old 416's, I pinned both heads for about $12-15 IIRC. I used a 3/32" bit and a slightly larger pin, it was like .095" or .097".
You're drilling through Iron and the studs themselves so use of drilling oil would be wise.
You're drilling through Iron and the studs themselves so use of drilling oil would be wise.
#3
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i've done both, i like screw in a lot better. you wouldn't want to weld them in and who ever told you that you ought to quit listening to anythng they have to say engine related.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
Originally posted by ede
i've done both, i like screw in a lot better. you wouldn't want to weld them in and who ever told you that you ought to quit listening to anythng they have to say engine related.
i've done both, i like screw in a lot better. you wouldn't want to weld them in and who ever told you that you ought to quit listening to anythng they have to say engine related.
Get the screw in studs, just a nice stronger setup really. Yes you can do it your self . I think you can buy a kit to do it at home .
#5
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Car: 87 & 89 Iroc's
Engine: 5.0 - 5.7
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Originally posted by D's89IROCZ
NOOOO DOUBT EH !!!!
Get the screw in studs, just a nice stronger setup really. Yes you can do it your self . I think you can buy a kit to do it at home .
NOOOO DOUBT EH !!!!
Get the screw in studs, just a nice stronger setup really. Yes you can do it your self . I think you can buy a kit to do it at home .
#6
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Unless your running a full race roller with 700lbs spring pressure the pinned studs will out live ya. Thats all ya need. Especially if "cheap" is a prerequsite.
#7
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Mr gasket makes a stud pinning kit, comes with a 'special' drill bit, and 16 pins. I'd rather buy it from the hardware store, in case I lose one of the pins while doing it...
I tried doing it, with some el cheapo plain HSS drill bits, they got dull fast. You can sharpen them as you go, but I figured it was more work then it was worth, and just got the MR gasket 1076 (non collared screw in studs).
normally with screw in studs, (collared style), you need to mill down the rocker stud bosses, run guide plates, then you need hardened pushrods.
pinning the studs eliminates all that excess work, and with the 1076, you just have to pull the studs, and tap it. Much easier. I made myself a tapping guide, to use the 1076, and a tapered tap was worth it's weight in gold.
I tried doing it, with some el cheapo plain HSS drill bits, they got dull fast. You can sharpen them as you go, but I figured it was more work then it was worth, and just got the MR gasket 1076 (non collared screw in studs).
normally with screw in studs, (collared style), you need to mill down the rocker stud bosses, run guide plates, then you need hardened pushrods.
pinning the studs eliminates all that excess work, and with the 1076, you just have to pull the studs, and tap it. Much easier. I made myself a tapping guide, to use the 1076, and a tapered tap was worth it's weight in gold.
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Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
Ehh, I heard too many storied of the boss breaking off while trying to remove the stud. I just pinned mine and have been working perfectly with the Comp 986 springs and LPE216
#10
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
no, pinning the studs should cost ~$5. Mr gasket screw ins are about $35. This is assuming you have drill bits at home, and have a tap at home, and don't need a tapping guide. Otherwise the studs cost even more.
collared ones are slighty more then the mrgasket ones, but it's the other bits that drive up the price there.
collared ones are slighty more then the mrgasket ones, but it's the other bits that drive up the price there.
#12
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
here's an F-bird paint pic.
I think I snapped a pic of one of my heads drilled, i'll see if I can find it.
I think I snapped a pic of one of my heads drilled, i'll see if I can find it.
#14
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
looking at your car, i'd assume you had already done this....
just curious, what heads? And/or what is your best time with that car?
just curious, what heads? And/or what is your best time with that car?
#15
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well best time with the car was 11.80s on a 150 shot on a 416 headed 305 motor with a .454/.454 cam in it and 230/230 duration i believe. just put in new springs in the heads and guides/seals and ran it. Now i'm putting together a 355, and unsure if i'll have funds for the dart heads I wanted to buy so i'm looking at porting out some L98 heads until mid-summer swapping them out. Seems like the budget way of doing it. Although I might just toss on some factory vortecs with a smaller isky cam like .450 lift out of a circle track catalog since I saw F'Bird 88 post it made 410 HP on an engine dyno.
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