Ok i got a new starter for my camaro i needed one for a 168 tooth flexplate so i got a starter for a 74 corvette put the starter on grinds real bad motor barley turns like its geting no power to the starter but used different batteries and the same. volts go way down when i try to start it. all connections are tight it might just be beacuse of it grinding still cant figure out what it is. used shims still nothing is the starter gear only suposed to be half way on the flexplate. the pics are with the thickest shim that you get. i used the smallest one to the biggest one i never tryed using 2 together.

 

If the starter never engages the flex plate, then shims will only make it worse. Take them all out.

I'm guessing this is the first time you've tried starting it. Let me guess some more: you just got this motor, and you got a REAL good deal on it for no apparent reason, maybe even a running bare block (one that didn't need machine work, probably good used but useable bores) that somebody took the internals out of and sold you just the block, and you just built it up with another crank and all that?

If so, welcome to The Problem.

Tell us more about this motor and its history, and maybe I can tell you what to do next.

 

no i got the motor from a freind complete but rings were bad i just needed somthing to rebuild about a year ago i started working on it stock crank rods new pistons bored .30 hot tanked ya its a new rebuilt motor and yes its the first time im trying to start it. the starter turns the flexplate it just grinds. With no shims it dosent grind as bad and turns a little faster but not much.

 

OK, so we can establish right away then, that the starter is too far away from the crank; since shimming (moving it farther away) makes it worse. Sounds more familiar all the time.

Are you use REAL STARTER BOLTS? (Hint: They're different from ordinary bolts...)

 

ya befor i used one that wasent a starter bolt and didnt turn at all so today i went and picked a new one up and now it turns should i get another new one for the other side or will the old one be ok i noticed that the kurnuld edged bellow the threads is all worn down on the old one.

 

Definitely get NEW REAL starter bolts. It really does make a difference. That knurled place makes it like a dowel pin, to positively locate the starter to the block.

You should be able to get them in the "Help" section at your local parts store; even AZ, Poop Boys, CSK, etc.

Try that first, see if it's acceptable.

 

just got new starter bolts still the same this is going to **** me off.

 

How's the motor turn without using the starter? i.e. if you carefully try and rotate it with a screwdriver on the flexplate?

If the motor is very very very hard to turn then your starter will behave the same way and bog the heck down, draw WAY too much current, kill the battery heat up the positive wire, etc. Might want to try a new cable, might want to find out why your motor is oh so very hard to rotate.

 

Sure is beginning to sound like a case of The Problem....

Is this a mid-70s block?

 

Did you engage the starter gear onto the flex plate for the pics or is that how it always is? How easy was the engine to rotate while you were building it?

 

yes its a 75 block i belive. i could turn the motor over with about 25 foot pounds i can grab one of the converter bolts and turn it. the starter in the pics is with it engaged. when it grinds does it meen its to close to the flexplate or to far away.

 

You have The Problem. No doubt about it any more.

It grinds because it's too far away.

The reason it's too far away, is because the block is machined wrong. That's what The Problem is. About a third of all Chevy blocks - big, small, and in-line 6s too I think - built between about 71 and about 79, have It.

The starter bolt holes are drilled too far from the crank. The factory messed up the block; and this is what happens.

You need a different starter. You could try another 3510 (the one you've got.... the "Corvette" starter is the same as an Impala, or a Truck, or a Nova starter...) but it probably won't do any good.

The part # that will fix it is 4347. That part # was introduced in the mid 70s to cure this issue that was evidently being experienced by some large fleet customers. If you just search that number on www.partsamerica.com it will come up. It moves the actual starter motor shaft, about 1/4" closer to the crank.

It takes different bolts from the ones you now have; one long and one short.

People will tell you all about this that or the other cure that "ought" to fix it. None of them work; at least not over the long term.

 

thats prolly what it is beacuse i just went out with a paper clip and i could prolly put 3 in there with no shims. thanks. would a auto place have that or would i have to buy online. or could i just get a mini starter would that work.

 

Is this how they fixed it?


GETaPED : Recoil starter assy. (G230RC,G260RC,GP290RS) [4347] - $33.96


Just kidding, I was curious enough to do a yahoo search "4347 starter", and this was the first link.

 

would a mini starter work or would i for sure have to get the 4347 one thanks

 

Dunno, never tried one.

I know the 4347 works though. I have ...... let's just say, several experiences with it.

 

does anyone know if our cars use straight shims or the bent ones. I need to buy some, my starter sometimes doesn't engage, just grinds...any ideas? should i add shims? anyone got a pic of the shims.? thnx

 

if you have the staggerd bolt hole starter you need the bent ones but if you have the staright across bolt hole pattern you need the straight ones.

 

My block was machined wrong, and I couldnt get the start close enough to the crank. 15 mins later with a file and all was good. Use GM starter bolts and nothing else. I just filed the mounting surface on the starter until it was flush with the starter housing. All my problems have been gone and it starts nice and quite.

 

cool. thanks...i'll buy both and return one, i just thought that our cars all used the same type,..mine is an 87 GTA..do you think i hve to shim it up a little more,..think that'll solve it?

 

Which vehicles uses 4347?

 

Might have better luck posting a new thread.
this shows applications

https://www.obbstartersandalternator...50-p-2949.html

 

None.

Ever.

It appeared in replacement parts catalogs around 74-75, as listed for cryptic non-existent applications like 72 Checker Marathon with 454 and Powerglide. By about 78 we all knew it was the go-to for motors built onto cursed blocks with The Problem.

Just buy it by part # and get THE RIGHT BOLTS. NOT standard ordinary bolts and don't try to outsmart yourself by "applications".