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help me remove a broken oil filter

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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 09:19 PM
  #1  
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From: Cinnaminson, NJ
Car: 90 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
help me remove a broken oil filter

i was showing my friend how to remove his oil filter during an oil change and he ended up tearing the filter in half with the screw driver. now all thats left of the filter is where it attaches to the car and you can see the 6 filter holes in the top from the bottom. the problem is it's on so damn tight i cant turn it by hand or with filter removers (i got that stap one and the straps just tore). are there any tricks you guys know of to get this filter off or have any of you experienced this problem. we worked on it for like 2 hours today and cant get it to budge
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 09:55 PM
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From: Tulsa, OK
Try using a hammer and punch near the edge to get a bite into the filter and gradually spin it off.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 12:00 AM
  #3  
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From: Dayton, OH 45431
Car: 91 Camaro Z28
Engine: 5.0 TPI (LB9)
Transmission: 4L60
Originally Posted by bfox88
he ended up tearing the filter in half with the screw driver

Why was a screwdriver involved in the first place?

But yea, try what he said, get a punch and just try to tap it out a little bit at a time.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 03:37 AM
  #4  
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From: Yellowknife, NWT, Canada
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
This is why they make an oil filter wrench!

Ill 3rd the idea of the punch, just be careful you dont end up smacking the mating surface for the rubber seal or that motors going to have a permanent leak...
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 08:23 AM
  #5  
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It's probably a good thing you weren't showing your friend how to change coil springs with a can opener, duct tape, and a 9V battery. At least it's only an oil filter.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 08:46 AM
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Car: 04 Silverado
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Originally Posted by Vader
It's probably a good thing you weren't showing your friend how to change coil springs with a can opener, duct tape, and a 9V battery. At least it's only an oil filter.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 08:53 AM
  #7  
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From: Southern IL
Car: 88 GTA "Cocaine"
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
vader, I've been trying to get the springs out. what do you think is the best
9 volt battery to use?
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 02:43 PM
  #8  
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From: Oak Ridge, TN
Car: 86 Z-28 Police Interceptor
Engine: 305 but building a 350
Transmission: 700r4 with shift kit
try rigging up something like a 4x4 hub socket, the ones with the 4 or 5b prongs sticking out. you might be able to get the prongs to line up with the holes in the oil filter
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 02:44 PM
  #9  
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From: Yellowknife, NWT, Canada
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Originally Posted by jamon8
vader, I've been trying to get the springs out. what do you think is the best
9 volt battery to use?

Duracell for sure!

Its not just a battery, its duracell!!!
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 08:23 PM
  #10  
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The old screwdriver through the oil filter used to work back before they started making oil filters out of such flimsy metal. And it was always third or fourth resort (first being gorilla arming it off, second being an actual oil filter wrench).
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 09:04 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Vader
It's probably a good thing you weren't showing your friend how to change coil springs with a can opener, duct tape, and a 9V battery. At least it's only an oil filter.
You forgot the damn paperclip!! You have to have the paperclip!!


And the screwdriver through the oil filter was a last resort. A good strap wrench (ie $$) will get it off so long as the metal edges don't cut into it. five7kid had a pic of one posted up a whie ago.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 09:54 PM
  #12  
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From: Southern IL
Car: 88 GTA "Cocaine"
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
you know I do happen to have an extra fly swatter!

Maybe that will help.

some guy on a headlight post used a hot glue stick to replace the headlight motor bushings.

True story
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 10:02 PM
  #13  
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
maybe your friend (or whoever changed the oil last) is missing out a few critical tech bits:
- lube the new gasket
- hand tighten only
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 09:16 PM
  #14  
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From: Vermont
Car: '86 Vette
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.11
I've had to replace filters on brand new (Cummins) diesels (painted with the engine block). They were on so tight, a chisel, hammer and ALOT of swearing to get it turning

I don't know who thought up the "stab-it with a screwdriver" idea. But I've NEVER seen it used successfully (and I'm older than dirt)

If I have the room, I reach for a set of Channel Lock Pliers (the two foot ones that "don't mind a challenge" )

Last edited by DanZ51; Apr 4, 2006 at 06:57 AM.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 09:53 PM
  #15  
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
He he I use the screwdriver method every now and then on a stubborn filter. I just make sure the screwdriver goes back through the other side.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 10:48 PM
  #16  
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From: Michigan
Car: 1984 Camaro Berlinetta
Engine: 355
Transmission: Th-350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I have to stab my oil filter with a screwdriver on my dd(91 bonne), i've tried getting a filter wrench on definitely not happening, so as my last and only resort being that its impossible to get a good grip on it with your hand. WORKS wonderfully every single time.
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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 01:59 AM
  #17  
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From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
Screwdriver just tears the filter tin apart.

I punch it with a screw driver and follow thru with a large punch or drift, than its enough to actually take it off without twisting the filter to nothing ness :-)

Still prefer my spring cups and filter wrenches though or specific filter cups.

U work on cars long enough, you find a way to make it work regardless of how hard the retard before u put it on.

later
Jeremy
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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 01:00 PM
  #18  
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From: Cinnaminson, NJ
Car: 90 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
i got it off finally. i put a scredriver into one of the holes in the top of the filter and tapped it with a hammer for awhile till it broke loose slightly, the person who put it on last must have been a gorilla and obviously didnt lube the rubber seal.
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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 02:18 PM
  #19  
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Maybe you should get one of those filters with the bolt on the bottom for removing the filter.
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