Torque specs for a 305 motor?
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
Torque specs for a 305 motor?
Does anyone have information regarding the torque specs or tightening sequecne for rockers arms? Also, I have aftermarket 1.6 rockers, would the torque be the same as if they were stock?
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
you're still going to tighten to 0 preload, then 1/2 turn or so. So yea, same as stock. also rotate the motor over a few times by hand before you go to start it, just to make the sure pushrod doesn't hit the end of the slot in the heads.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 708
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
Sorry to sound dumb about this, but I'm not exactly sure what 0 preload means...also, someone else told me that i should let the engine run for a while and warm up before i try to tighten the rockers...opps, i guess i forgot to mention that I'm doing this because one of my lifters is tapping and i think its because of a loose aftermarket rocker arm...
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
use a stethoscope (the $15 will pay itself off very soon), and listen on your valve covers, it'll help you find it easiest.
that tapping sound can easily (EASILY) be mistaken with an exhaust leak.
basically, make sure your lifter is on the base circle, sure fire way to do this, is if your exhaust valve on a cylinder is open, then the intake is on the base circle. and vice versa. So when the lifter is on the base circle, grab your pushrod, and move it up and down, or rotate it, and tighten your lifter down, until you feel resistance in the pushrod (ie, the rocker is touching it), that's 0 preload, ie, no slack. Then add 1/2 turn.
that tapping sound can easily (EASILY) be mistaken with an exhaust leak.
basically, make sure your lifter is on the base circle, sure fire way to do this, is if your exhaust valve on a cylinder is open, then the intake is on the base circle. and vice versa. So when the lifter is on the base circle, grab your pushrod, and move it up and down, or rotate it, and tighten your lifter down, until you feel resistance in the pushrod (ie, the rocker is touching it), that's 0 preload, ie, no slack. Then add 1/2 turn.
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