Cliffnotes: installed head new head gaskets. Afterwards, car runs horrible. Very choppy, will die unless I give it gas.

The timing was set back to the stock 6* but still is the same. Checked for codes and got 12, 15, & 42.

3 things are broken or unplugged:

1) is the sensor on the passenger head, the connection is broken. Is the coolant temp sensor

2) The vacuum to the EGR under the plenum

3) The sensor below the TB going into the lower intake manifold is leaking.

I will connect all of those asap, but can't do anything about it for another few days.

As for the codes, would any of these cause a horrible running condition?
-Code 12 says everything is AOK, well everything is not ok.
-Code 15 says the coolant temp sensor isn't working (the wire plug is broken so that is correct.)
-Code 42 says EST isn't working. (We adjusted the timing and disconnected this causing the code to pop up.)

So what is the deal with code 12 and would the code 15 mess the motor up that bad? I disconnected the battery for like 15 minutes to reset everything but it didn't help.

HELP??!!!

 

code 12 is the diagnostics code
just means the ALDL is functioning properly

Fix those aforementioned trouble spots and get to checking the obvious... timing, firing order, etc.

 

i have a similar problem except i took intake off and replaced it after doing some work and now it runs like A$$ i throw code 15 and 23 and my choke light stays on and i get like 8mpg

 

I will be rotating the plugs on the distributor, maybe they are on wrong. Then I will check to see if the wires I cut, are doing their job. I have the stock wires to test with. If no, then it's down to see if the plugs are all ok. Maybe the head gasket didn't fix and coolant is fouling them. I would check the oil, but there was still sludge in the oil pan and I need an oil change once it runs good.

Any other things I can check for, besides fix those little things above?

IF there is misfires, why am I not getting a code set, or do the older cars not have a misfire code?

 

I dont think it does have a code for misfires, but i'll try to find out for ya

 

No car without a crank or cam position sensor will detect a misfire

 

Token, it's been a long 4 weeks, and my brain is jelly. Are you saying that there will be no codes read if the the car is missing something, or these cars don't have a misfire code?

 

The cars don't have crank or cam sensors
The only way to find a misfire is to feel it on these cars. I wouldn't rule it out, but I would investigate something else beforehand. When I did my first cam swap, my valves were set too tight, and the car wouldn't run. No compression. Make sure you did everything right the first time. I'd suggest doing a compression test just to rule out what I just said, really. They're like $15 for a kit.

 

Well I did all of those 3 things, plugged in CTS, EGR valve, and ICTS. I also found out that #8 plug was broke. I drive it around and it felt weak. But that is partially because sitting so long I'm sure. But after about 2 minutes of driving the motor starts dying whenever I slow down.

I know everyone says the valve lash needs to be corrected and it does. I've done just about everything else, besides tighten the headers down again, and it's till dying on me. Would too tight of valve lash cause it to die?

 

"BigWhiteGTP Well I did all of those 3 things, plugged in CTS, EGR valve, and ICTS. I also found out that #8 plug was broke. I drive it around and it felt weak. But that is partially because sitting so long I'm sure. But after about 2 minutes of driving the motor starts dying whenever I slow down.

I know everyone says the valve lash needs to be corrected and it does. I've done just about everything else, besides tighten the headers down again, and it's till dying on me. Would too tight of valve lash cause it to die?"


yes dont aske me how i know!

 

Well, I did loosen the valve lash and it did drive better. Timing is still off, or there are more misfires or both. I will buy a timing light and check. I got an SES light and I will code it tomorrow afternoon.

 

Codes that popped up are 12, 15, and the new ones are 22 and 45.

22 is low TPS voltage.

45 is rich o2 condition. Could this and code 15 (low Intake coolant temp) be in correlation to each other? Because the temp is registered so low the comp is overcompensating by richening it. Or is it just getting used to headers?