This post will show my ignorance of engines.

I recently bought a 1988 camaro from a kid that was having trouble passing emissions. I think, in an attempt to pass emissions, he removed or unhooked some engine components. I want to get this thing running correctly but I don't know exactly what is missing so I don't know what I need to get.

If anyone can identify any of the following please let me know:


This hose comes out of the firewall, branches in two and then is left just hanging there. What is it?






What are these two electrical connectors that are just hanging there?





This is a threaded hole in the air cleaner, is something supposed to be connected here?




Also, is there supposed to be some kind of ring or spacer that fits between the air cleaner and the TBI? My air cleaner just loosely sits on the TBI because I can't tighten the wing nut all the way down because there is a gap between the air cleaner and the TBI.

 

The hoses that lead to nothing look like they should lead to an Air Managemnet Diverter Valve or a Canister purge valve. These are emission components. Both of these parts can be found at a local parts store and range from $40-$120. As far as the wires, they might also go to one of these valves for metering. I am not sure what the bolt on the air filter base is, but it just looks like a spacer. Hope this helps. Good Luck!

 

looks like its got headers...that tube in the first pic is part of the diverter valve...you don't need it for the car to run properly, but you might not be able top pass emmissons, maybe if you took it out they won't notice that its gone...i had the same air cleaner that you have, but i can't remember if anything goes in it...i don't think anything ges there...but thee should be some kind of ensor plug that goes into the air cleaner...i unhokked all of that a while back and replaced mine with a dual snorkel...check around the air cleaner for any unplugged wires...

 

Thanks for the replies so far. That will at least give me a starting point when I reference my manual.

The bolt on the air cleaner is basically just a hole. It just opens up to the bottom side of the air cleaner. The fact that it is a threaded hole is what leads me to believe that something is supposed to be connected there.

Anyone else have any thoughts on the electrical connections or the reason my air cleaner just kind of wobbles on top of the TBI.

 

Does it still wobble when the wingnut is tight?..is the TBI ring loose at all? (the plate that the air cleaner rests on)

 

There is a ring that sits on top of the TBI unit - it's about 3/4 inch tall.

The hole in the air cleaner needs plugged until you find what's supposed to go there - there should be a sensor that detects idle air temperature, but I've never seen a threaded one. plug/screw something into the hole to keep from getting dirt into the TBI.

The hose was from the AIR system - look to see if there is a smog pump - it's under the A/C compressor, as part of the serpintine belt system - about the size of an alternator with a serpintine pulley on it. If it's missing, you may not pass the inspection. If it's there, try routing some radiator hose from that connection and attach to the smog pump with zip ties or something to pass the visual.

BUT - I'm assuming the smog pump is missing - 'cause the two wires you have circled plug into the AIR diverter valve, which is a square box with round things on the side (looks like Princess Leah's hair do in Star Wars) and connects directly to the smog pump with a metal tube - the smog pump pumps air through the tube, into the diverter, and when conditions are right, uses this airflow to recirculate emissions gases from the cat back through the exhaust manifolds (which you don't have anymore - I see headers!)

Is that tin foil on the plug wires? I'd get rid of that if it is - we don't want plugs arcing when trying to pass emissions - we want all the spark to ignite all the fuel, so we get everything burned up instead of coming out the tailpipe and into the sniffer.

Do you have emissions inspections on this year car? If so, without the smog pump, and with those headers, you may not pass - but it won't cost much to find out. If only safety inspection, then a small shop (not a chain - but like a used tire shop) may pass it without even looking under hood.

 

I don't have a ring that sits on the TBI. I guess that's why it wobbles around, anyone know where I could pick one up?

Also, thanks for the info on the smog pump, I'll check and see if the smog pump is missing.

Since the day I bought the car the service engine soon light will come on shortly after I begin driving. When I check the code I get a 32, which means the EGR valve is bad. But I've tested the egr valve and it is functioning and I put in a new egr solenoid and the light still comes on. I'm hoping that by replacing all the missing parts that it will fix the problem.

 

I checked for the smog pump and it still appears to be there. there isn't anything hooked up to it though. Can I just remove it?

Any ideas on the egr code problem (from the above post)?

Also, could the threaded hole in the air cleaner be for the intake air temperature sensor?

 

I beleive the EGR system and the AIR system (smog pump) are all in the same stuff - the EGR opens and lets exhaust gases recirculate via the smog pump and AIR tubes. Assuming this is correct, you'd get an EGr code because those two connectors are not connected to anything, and the ECM can sense that. So, basically you need the "Princess Leah" box I mentioned - but there is no where to connect the output, since those headers are do not have the AIR tubes.

Whether you "have" to have any of this depends on your inspection and emissions regs. If you have to pass a tailpipe sniff - chances are they'll look for these things under the hood, even if you could tune for passing emissions, they might fail for loss of proper equipment.

Find out about the emissions regs for your year car - many states are abandoning emissions testing for pre 1996 vehicles as there just aren't many out there anymore. We can reconstruct if necessary, but it would be easier to just go without it if we can pass inspections, since reconstruction means getting different ($300) headers, the "Princess Leah" box (anyone can chime in and tell me what the real name for this thing is lol), and maybe reconstruct the recirulating tube to the cat converter.

 

I went to autozone and found some air cleaner risers. I put that on and now the air cleaner has no more wobble. I was amazed but it actually helped the engine run smoother, it even sounds different.

I don't have to pass any emissions standards where I live. I was just trying to get everthing that had been removed put back in the engine hoping that it would correct the egr problem and that "service engine soon" light would go off. If I don't need any of that emissions stuff, can it all be taken out and still somehow get the warning light to go off.

 

I'll just confirm a few things for you that others have brought up-

1. The threaded fitting in the air cleaner base is where the IAT (Intake Air Temp) Sensor is supposed to go. I have never seen a threaded fitting like that put in it's place as the IAT uses it's own clip to stay put. I'll bet if you're throwing a code shortly after startup it's becuase of a missing IAT (you may have misread or incorrectly cross-referenced your ECM trouble code?). EGR code won't show up until you drive around for a while usually. IAT being missing will trip it much faster. There's a 2-wire oval-shaped weatherpack connector for the IAT and it pops out of the wiring harness near the TB. The IAT sensor itself has the female side of that type of connector that it plugs into. A new IAT sensor should run you about $12 at the auto parts store. I recommend you get one and install it.

2. Those hoses just hanging out in the breeze and the 2 connectors you have pictured are for your air injection system diverter valve (which has apparently been removed already). The remaining hoses related to that system obviously have no place to plug into with your non-emissions headers, so they removed some of them and left some of them just hanging in the breeze. If you want to remove those hoses you can- they're not doing anything any more. If you want to remove the air pump unit itself you will need to get a different serpentine belt and alter it's routing on the front end of the engine. FORTUNATELY.... there's a tech article on this website that tells you exactly how to do it- it works, I've done it myself.

3. EGR system. Has nothing to do with the air injection system- they're separate from eachother and have different functions.

4. TBI spacer ring- it's about 1/" tall. You can get one off a junkyard car pretty easy- GM used them on almost all their TBI engines, regardless of make, model or engine size. A 1" spacer for a 4bbl carb such as you already have, would probably work just as well. If the wingnut that holds the lid on is down about 1/2 way on the air cleaner stud threads when tightened then your spacer ring is about the right height.

 

What he said.

 

Yep, what he said too.

If no emissions, just remove that smog pump at your convenience - the tech article mentioned will show you the belt routing and tell you what belt to ask for at the parts store.

The IAT sensor - like said, find one and plug it in - if you can't fit it into that threaded hole in the air cleaner housing, plug that threaded hole so you don't suck in trash, and either make a new hole for the IAT with a drill bit, or simply let the IAT sensor be somewhere close to the air cleaner - all it wants is a temp reading of the air going into the TBI.

On the SES light - pull the codes (tech article for this too), and see if there is anything other than EGR and IAT codes - this will clue you in to anything else to worry about on the car. After everything has been resolved that has a code for it, disconnect battery for a few minutes, this resets the codes. Then I'd say get behind the instrument panel, and remove the SES light bulb from the panel - you can always use the paperclip and check codes anytime to see what's up (other than what you already know).

 

First of all, thanks again to everyone for all the good info.

I decided to purchase a new IAT sensor but before I did that I checked to see if I could find the electical connections and make sure they were still in the car. I found a wire hanging down on the left side of the distributor and when I pulled it up there was already an IAT sensor connected. It had just been hanging down there this whole time. Now I have to test it to make sure it works.

Also, I was reading another thread about emissions testing in IL. I don't have emissions testing where I live and apparently never will (https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/mid-...s-testing.html). So, I intend to remove the smog pump and egr system. Any pointers on doing either of these things?

Lastly, if I remove the egr system will that "SES" light ever go off?

 

the SES light will need to have the egr disabled inthe PROM to ever shut off with no EGR.