Valley Vent...is it ok to use BRASS barbs?
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 350,Dart Heads,Weiand In,Roller Cam
Transmission: 2400-Stall, 700R4 w/ Kit
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.42 disc (I wish)
Valley Vent...is it ok to use BRASS barbs?
I picked up 8 Lowes $0.96 1/4" brass barbs (you know to adapt 1/4 pipe thread to rubber hose) for lifter valley vents. I figure it will save me $10 plus $8 shipping from summit.
I am just wondering about the brass being able to handle heat and expansion. I'm guessing just RED loctite them in and I should have problems?
Any input? I will fedex a cookie to you if you find it on google.
I am just wondering about the brass being able to handle heat and expansion. I'm guessing just RED loctite them in and I should have problems?
Any input? I will fedex a cookie to you if you find it on google.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 290
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From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 350,Dart Heads,Weiand In,Roller Cam
Transmission: 2400-Stall, 700R4 w/ Kit
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.42 disc (I wish)
You cleanup/bore out the two big drains on the sides and you plug up the center eight. Less oil on the crank, less rotating mass, a tiny bit more hp. I'll take a few horses and rpms for $10.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The brass can handle the heat. Not sure about the Loctite. I'd either use epoxy or nothing.
Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
I know that's why race motor builders do it (one of the reasons anyway). And often they will plug the front ones, that drain on the timing chain; and leave only the back ones open. But, why are YOU doing it? It's not really appropriate for a street motor, if that's what you're building. For example, a TPI motor will never see the kind of RPMs where it will make any detectable difference.
You know of course too, that the cam uses drainback oil.... what are you going to do to replace that?
And last but not least, that's about a pound of brass you're adding to your motor.
Which is one reason for the aluminum standpipes that racing parts people use.
You know of course too, that the cam uses drainback oil.... what are you going to do to replace that?
And last but not least, that's about a pound of brass you're adding to your motor.
Which is one reason for the aluminum standpipes that racing parts people use. Supreme Member
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
stopping oil from draining onto your cam, timing chain or crank, sounds like a bad idea.... Is it just slowing down the flow to that, or stopping oiling where it's not needed or something?
are you also modifying your distributor (slot), to help oil the cam? Since you're doing all the little things?
are you also modifying your distributor (slot), to help oil the cam? Since you're doing all the little things?
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 290
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From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 350,Dart Heads,Weiand In,Roller Cam
Transmission: 2400-Stall, 700R4 w/ Kit
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.42 disc (I wish)
Each lifter is going to get oil, i'm also running a roller cam, so excess is waste. The crankshaft also gets oil to the pins, which intern flys off all over the place like on cylinder walls, so excess is waste.
Its a $10 investment GEEZ.
I guess its like putting a spoiler on a rice rocket...doesn't make you go faster, but this is much cooler then stupid wings.
Its a $10 investment GEEZ.
I guess its like putting a spoiler on a rice rocket...doesn't make you go faster, but this is much cooler then stupid wings.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Lifters always get oil. There's a passage that runs from front to rear of the block, goes right through the middle of them.
However, there's almost NEVER enough oil that feeds to the cam/lifter junction. This is particularly a problem under street motor operating conditions; idling and such. Roller cams are no different from flats in that regard. Except that you not only have the cam/lifter friction to worry about, but also the lifter roller on its axle. Those puppies NEED the oil. And they DON'T get it from the lifter feed; unless you're running Isky Red Zones or Crower HIPPO lifters. Those are the only ones that oil the axle directly. Both are solids only AFAIK, no hydraulics, if that's what you're running.
If this is a street motor, I'd recommend against it. It's not an "investment"; it's a waste, and may do more harm than good. It's really only useful for motors that spend basically their entire life above 6000 RPMs.
However, there's almost NEVER enough oil that feeds to the cam/lifter junction. This is particularly a problem under street motor operating conditions; idling and such. Roller cams are no different from flats in that regard. Except that you not only have the cam/lifter friction to worry about, but also the lifter roller on its axle. Those puppies NEED the oil. And they DON'T get it from the lifter feed; unless you're running Isky Red Zones or Crower HIPPO lifters. Those are the only ones that oil the axle directly. Both are solids only AFAIK, no hydraulics, if that's what you're running.
If this is a street motor, I'd recommend against it. It's not an "investment"; it's a waste, and may do more harm than good. It's really only useful for motors that spend basically their entire life above 6000 RPMs.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 290
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From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 350,Dart Heads,Weiand In,Roller Cam
Transmission: 2400-Stall, 700R4 w/ Kit
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.42 disc (I wish)
I want ventilation and oil back in the pan asap, not dilly dallying on the crankshaft. Besides, this is my toy car, I don't care about longevity, I want to kill mustangs (I know you can agree with one thing
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