Broken Spark Plug Threaded Part Still There
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 12
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From: Grand Forks , ND
Car: 1983 Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.93
Broken Spark Plug Threaded Part Still There
Anyone have any great ideas on how to remove a spark plug that broke off when I was trying to remove it? It snapped right behind the nut, leaving the threaded part still in the hole. I Tried one of those square easy outs that say they are more for thin-walled nuts--it won't budge. I could probably use a cheater bar on the wrench, but not sure what else would break. It's the #6 cylinder on an '83 T/A W/305. Thanks in advnace for any advice offered.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Grand Forks , ND
Car: 1983 Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.93
Went to the local machine shop, and this old guy recommended "FREE ALL" said, and I quote "it is the best thing since sliced bread". Does it compare to the other products--anyone else heard of it. Well, I bought some, and sprayed the crap out of it--hasn't helped yet.
I had one break off in a 4cyl alum. head once. One word of advice: don't let your problem become worst case scenerio and break an EZ out in the head. If I were you, I would consider calling around, seeing if maybe a local shop might take on the task.
I'm not sure how best you should handle this, but I suggest not to torque the EZ out too much, to avoid a compounded problem.
I'm not sure how best you should handle this, but I suggest not to torque the EZ out too much, to avoid a compounded problem.
Do you mean like this?

Find a set of Champion plugs and that won't happen again. Use antiseize compound on the plug threads to help prevent that.
After allowing the penetrating oil to soak in and work, try an extractor. You may have the best luck with a straight-flute extractor, since a reverse sprial type (like the typical E-Z Out) will expand the thin plug shell and make it even harder to turn. Make sure the engine is rotated so that the piston in that cylinder is not near the top of stroke before you go sticking an extractor in there.

Find a set of Champion plugs and that won't happen again. Use antiseize compound on the plug threads to help prevent that.
After allowing the penetrating oil to soak in and work, try an extractor. You may have the best luck with a straight-flute extractor, since a reverse sprial type (like the typical E-Z Out) will expand the thin plug shell and make it even harder to turn. Make sure the engine is rotated so that the piston in that cylinder is not near the top of stroke before you go sticking an extractor in there.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Grand Forks , ND
Car: 1983 Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.93
Vader; the one that broke off is a champion. I did buy the square extractor as well. Right now I'm letting it soak. The car is new to me, so I didn't put the plugs in, or I would have used anti-sieze.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Grand Forks , ND
Car: 1983 Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.93
Thanks for the tips everyone--I got it. Persistance, a whole bunch of penatrating spray, and some skinned knuckles; didn't have to pull the head though.
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,093
Likes: 126
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally Posted by Vader
That plug must have been in there since 19-something. Usually, the plated plugs don't do that unless they haven't been changed in 5 years or more.
Anyway, ez-out and a torch gets the plugs out in no time. no damages.
-- Joe
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