I just ordered my parts for my goodwrench 350 build up. I don't have the time or money to start with a new short block so i will just use the gw's bottom end. It is a 4-bolt with pm rods so for what i want it will work fine.
I am gonna keep my holley 600 since it will not be seing no really high rpm's.
This is what i ordered..
Pro- comp al. heads 190cc 2.02-1.60. I am going to gasket match it to fit holley intake.
Comp xe 274
head bolts.
full roller rockers 1.5
gasket set- v. cover,head,oil pan fuel pump, water pump,& timing cover
cam button and block protector
full roller chain with new cover
pushrods after i check length.
pushrod length checker.
oil pump primer.
balancer remover/installer
coated hooker shorties after break-in
rotella t and gm break-in additive
New GM complete serpentine setup from summit.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...ts=false&N=115
anyone used this/\/\/\/\/\
I'm gonna order a cowl hood as soon as i decide whether i want fiberglass or steel so i can use a bigger air cleaner.
Did i miss anything.
I am gonna keep my holley 600 since it will not be seing no really high rpm's.
This is what i ordered..
Pro- comp al. heads 190cc 2.02-1.60. I am going to gasket match it to fit holley intake.
Comp xe 274
head bolts.
full roller rockers 1.5
gasket set- v. cover,head,oil pan fuel pump, water pump,& timing cover
cam button and block protector
full roller chain with new cover
pushrods after i check length.
pushrod length checker.
oil pump primer.
balancer remover/installer
coated hooker shorties after break-in
rotella t and gm break-in additive
New GM complete serpentine setup from summit.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...ts=false&N=115
anyone used this/\/\/\/\/\
I'm gonna order a cowl hood as soon as i decide whether i want fiberglass or steel so i can use a bigger air cleaner.
Did i miss anything.
Supreme Member
Sonix
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Sep 20, 2016
shouldn't need a cam button with a xe274 (flat tappet right?)
heads are assembled?
how's your oil pump? if it's not quite new, i'd put a new one in, an M55 is like $16, they're so dirt cheap i'd replace it even if I didn't want to
in which case i'd also use a high pressure spring (mrg 16?) and steel oil pump shaft.
can't think of anything else off the top of my head....
heads are assembled?
how's your oil pump? if it's not quite new, i'd put a new one in, an M55 is like $16, they're so dirt cheap i'd replace it even if I didn't want to
in which case i'd also use a high pressure spring (mrg 16?) and steel oil pump shaft.can't think of anything else off the top of my head....
Heads are assembled. Your right i don't need the button. The engine has less than 20,000 on it and has a high volume oil pump. I thought about changing it but i do not want to completely remove the oil pan.
any suggestions on timing when i fire it up for break in? I want to make sure i take all of the pre cautions so i don't screw up the cam. This is my first major project with a liquid cooled engine. I have rebuilt several air cooled vw's.
any suggestions on timing when i fire it up for break in? I want to make sure i take all of the pre cautions so i don't screw up the cam. This is my first major project with a liquid cooled engine. I have rebuilt several air cooled vw's.
Supreme Member
Sonix
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Sep 20, 2016
I *just* posted how to set timing on a new motor, check the other thread here, I forget what it was about....
set it around 15* BTDC for start up, and pour 1/3cup of gas into your carb. It'll fire right up, then hold it at 2000RPM for 20 minutes. go up 500RPM for a minute, etc, until 3500RPM, then back down to 2000RPM. Change oil, start back up and start tuning!
(unless something leaks or catches on fire, which is inevitable.)
set it around 15* BTDC for start up, and pour 1/3cup of gas into your carb. It'll fire right up, then hold it at 2000RPM for 20 minutes. go up 500RPM for a minute, etc, until 3500RPM, then back down to 2000RPM. Change oil, start back up and start tuning!
(unless something leaks or catches on fire, which is inevitable.)