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balancer bolt broke

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Old May 22, 2006 | 10:55 PM
  #1  
85blackberlinet's Avatar
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From: St. louis
Car: 85 berlinetta
Engine: none
Transmission: 700r4very soon t5
balancer bolt broke

got a newer style block ready to go i used that bolt with no bearing tight to spin the 350 got it in the car when i went to back it out it snapped got any ideas (c4 or pipe bomb is my thought)lol
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Old May 23, 2006 | 12:41 AM
  #2  
Apeiron's Avatar
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Drill it out, tap it for the next larger size, and never turn the engine by the balancer bolt again.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 11:17 AM
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From: Philly, PA
If the threads are OK you just need to get the old bolt out and screw another one in.

And never turn the engine with the balancer bolt again.

That ain't what it's there for.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 11:49 AM
  #4  
85blackberlinet's Avatar
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From: St. louis
Car: 85 berlinetta
Engine: none
Transmission: 700r4very soon t5
as far as turning it that way i have done it so many diff motors this time i used a spectra (autozone ill)not a stock hardened bolt
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Old May 23, 2006 | 01:41 PM
  #5  
Apeiron's Avatar
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
It's never a good idea, hardened bolt or not. A weak bolt will snap off in the crank. A strong one will strip the threads. It won't happen every time of course, but just once is enough to make you regret it.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 02:05 PM
  #6  
Damon's Avatar
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From: Philly, PA
What Apeiron said. The crank in a stock motor is just cast iron and the threads on that bolt are very fine threads- easily stripped out with too much torque. The bolt was designed with fine threads so it would never vibrate loose while the motor is running even if only modestly torqed down, but that works against you when you try to use it to turn the motor over. All of a sudden the wrench goes mushy in your hand and you are in for a very un-fun drill-n-tap or helicoil operation.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 09:48 PM
  #7  
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From: Evansville, Wisconsin
Car: 91' Pontiac Firebird
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
Up until the late 60's, SBC's didnt even use a balancer bolt. The balancer was just pressed on. Since drilling will be a major PITA, you could remove the balancer, clean everything really well, cover the surfaces in Locktite "Bearing Retainer" and reinstall it. It will probably last the life of the crank.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 09:52 PM
  #8  
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
How would most people press on the balancer without using the threads? Please don't say with a hammer.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 10:02 PM
  #9  
CamarosRUS's Avatar
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
I know using the balancer bolt is a bad idea to turn the motor over with but its the only way I can. I have a starter switch but the majority of the time my kill switch is off so thats a no go.

Anytime I use the balancer bolt to turn the motor over I have all 8 plugs out of the motor. While still not ideal is this acceptable since all the plugs are out, the motor turns over rather easily.

Oh, I also have an ARP balancer bolt and I read tonight the tool to turn the crank with will not fit over the ARP balancer bolt...
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Old May 23, 2006 | 10:04 PM
  #10  
Apeiron's Avatar
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Which tool is that? You could use long bolts and bushings to space the tool out from the face of the balancer, or just remove the balancer bolt even.

Last edited by Apeiron; May 23, 2006 at 10:08 PM.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 10:12 PM
  #11  
Token's Avatar
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally Posted by Apeiron
How would most people press on the balancer without using the threads? Please don't say with a hammer.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 10:12 PM
  #12  
CamarosRUS's Avatar
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ing-valve.html

Is it still extremly bad to turn it via the bolt with all plugs out?
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Old May 23, 2006 | 10:15 PM
  #13  
Apeiron's Avatar
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Well you should be able to turn it over easily enough with the plugs out that there wouldnt' be much chance of damaging anything. I find it easier to take the pulley off than to take the plugs out though.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 10:23 PM
  #14  
CamarosRUS's Avatar
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
Yea I have pretty easy access to all mine and with me fouling out so many lately I've gotten good at removing/installing them. It's just a PITA to have to pull the balancer bolt and the three pulley bolts to install the turnning tool...plugs or crank pulley and balancer bolt (which also means the belt. I have a custom setup so its not as easy as turning the tensioner with a ratchet).

I guess 6 is one and half a dozen is the other though if I don't strip the bolt.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 10:26 PM
  #15  
Apeiron's Avatar
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
What are you whining about? I've got V-belts.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 10:29 PM
  #16  
CamarosRUS's Avatar
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
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Old May 23, 2006 | 11:34 PM
  #17  
80Sierra's Avatar
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From: Alberta, Canada
Car: 80 GMC K35
Engine: TPI 355
Transmission: NV4500
Axle/Gears: 4.10
In the future, turn the engine by the bolt on the alternator pulley! Far easier to fix that!

If you are unable to get the bolt out, and wind up having to drill it out, drill and tab it for a 454 balancer bolt. Thats what I did when I made the same mistake
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Old May 23, 2006 | 11:56 PM
  #18  
8Mike9's Avatar
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From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Once you get it out, IIRC it's a 7/16th bolt, true it up with a bit, and tap for 1/2 inch.



Not to quote anyone, but it wasn't until the early/mid 60's that you had a bolt on there.

Yes, pounded many a 235 L6 balancer on as well as 265's and a few 283's.

I must be old.
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Old May 24, 2006 | 12:57 AM
  #19  
CamarosRUS's Avatar
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
80sierra...were you plugs in or out when you snapped yours?
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Old May 24, 2006 | 02:47 PM
  #20  
CamarosRUS's Avatar
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
Just wanted to let everyone know I searched on here ("Balancer torque" in titles only) and got the TQ spec as 70 ft lbs for the bolt. I tried it out on the bolt with my TQ wrench and all my plugs out and it wasn't anywhere the 70 ft lbs. So, I think I'll stick with using the bolt until I get sick of pulling all the plugs!
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Old May 24, 2006 | 10:51 PM
  #21  
Coach Hawk's Avatar
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From: Evansville, Wisconsin
Car: 91' Pontiac Firebird
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
Originally Posted by Apeiron
How would most people press on the balancer without using the threads? Please don't say with a hammer.
With a hammer If your concerned about dents and dings, use a 2x4 between the balancer and the hammer.
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Old May 25, 2006 | 12:16 PM
  #22  
85blackberlinet's Avatar
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From: St. louis
Car: 85 berlinetta
Engine: none
Transmission: 700r4very soon t5
Originally Posted by 80Sierra
In the future, turn the engine by the bolt on the alternator pulley! Far easier to fix that!

If you are unable to get the bolt out, and wind up having to drill it out, drill and tab it for a 454 balancer bolt. Thats what I did when I made the same mistake
thanks i thought i was the only one for a while how long did it take you
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