i weighed my car at dump, 3540..............input it, it zeroed out, said go, i went through all the gears to redline.................first run it said 88 hp, second 117 hp and third 145hp...........................wtf? my bike has 100hp................so what am i doing wrong, does this thing have to warm up or somethin?

 

Did you level the g-tech first?
what were your quarter mile times?
did you take your own weight into account?

 

yes, .00 its level yes? i didnt do any 1/4 mile readings, yes i weighed the car with me in it .............................maybe rolling out onto the road is part of the problem? am i correct in thinking you have to go from a complete stop, through first and second only then slow down quickly? cause i was rolling out into the road (gravel), then going thru all 4 gears and not slowing down quickly..................

 

145rwhp with the wind resistance is probably pretty close for a stock 305TBI.

 

I agree it probably is pretty close 145hp. You need to be at a dead stop then input your wight and make sure it is zeroed. Start when it says go and keep going until it shows your results, if that's what you did your car has 145hp to the ground! The incline of the road will have a big effect on your results. wind resistance will too

 

keep going till it shows results? ! it says you have to slow to under 30 or go over 120 for it to display final number..................i got to about 100 then had to back down for traffic


basically , if i want to know true hp i need to find a dyno eh? im having a chip made to replace my hypertech , so i wanted to see if the gtech would show that i picked up anything

 

oops, haven't used that hp feature in like 3yrs cause i don't like it, i checked my instructions and it jogged my memory but yeah a dyno is more accurate, If you just want to see if you picked up any more power it should show up as long as u use the same road and same temp, (you make more power when it's colder)

 

In the Gtech manual there is a procedure to do when trying to get consistent HP readings. On page 67 in the "more info" section it. It measures net HP, all hp avaiable to accelerate the vehicle after drivetrain loss. This is your true HP apparently, I wasnt happy either. Although my car is torquey..

 

page 67? ive had this on a shelf in my garage for maybe 6 years or so , my manual only has 11 pages

 

Do you have the Gtech pro ss? Well that is the one that I have, Ill write up what it says i guess...

"The Gtech does not measure engine horsepower at the crank which is what the automobile manufactures and magizines typically report.
The Gtech does not measure wheel horspower either (a dyno measures wheel horsepower) As you may know, wheel horsepower auctually measures lower then engine horsepower since it includes drivetrain loss, the rolling resistance of the tires on the road and other factors.
The Gtech measures net horsepower, which reads even lower then wheel horsepower. The Gtechs net Horsepower value is a measurement of all the horsepower that is avaiable to accelerate your vehicle after all powerlosses have been subtracted.
As an example, on a dyno, the vehicle is not experiencing any aerodynamic drag because it is not auctually moving through the air- it is stationary on rollers.
However in the "real world" your vehicle has to contend with issures such as aero drag.
Suppose that two vehicles with idential engines, drivetrains and tires go to the same dyno. One vehcile has been modified to minimize aerodynamic drag. They both go to the dyno in town and measure identically.
On the Gtech, the vehicle that is more aerodynamic will measure at a higher net HP because it loses less power due to aerodynamic drag at the track.
The driving technique for HP and TQ measurements differs from the technique for obtaining the best 1/4 mile results.
We will describe the technique here and then provide some supporting information afterwards.
1) Stage the Gtech just as you would for a 1/4 mile run. Wait for the launch when ready message.
2) At a moderate RPM value, start your vehicle briskly off the line, enough to trigger the Gtech and start its clock. Dont launch as hard as you would for the 1/4 mile. For example if your redline is 6000RPM launch at 1500-2000RPM.
3) Shift out of 1st gear before you are halfway to your vehciles redline. So if the redline is 6000rpm shift to 2nd before you reach 3000rpm in first gear. Be sure to letoff the throttle between shifts i.e., while the clutch is not fully engaged and be sure to shift smoothly and avoid jerks.
4) As soon as 2nd gear is fully engaged floor the accelerator. Keep the pedal to the metal untill your vehicles redline.
5) This allows you to cover a very wide RPM range in 2nd gear at full throttle. Dont worry about the fact that you arent in the sweet spot of your powerband when you first shift into 2nd, thats the point, we are measureing the power over the whole RPM range.
6) Once you reach your upper RPM value in 2nd gear, shift into 3rd and accelerate brielfy. This doesnt have to be a full throttle since we are using 2nd gear for our hp measurement.
7) At this point you can press the OK to stop teh Gtech from measuring or just coast.
8) now view the dyno plot. "


They give reasons as well as to why do all the stuff that i typd up but it is like another 2 pages and that was alot of typing, hope this helped.

 

this is from when they first came out, just gtech pro i think, thanx for info, the little pamphlet tells me nothing in that detail..........

 

170ish stock FWHP minus 15% drivetrain losses(which is generous for a 700R4, 20-25% is closer to actual) is 145 at the wheels.

 

well the tranny was redone by level10, i can smoke em through first and second all the way thru and chirp in third.................maybe my idea of over 250 hp was a dream.....................a 305tbi with everything done except cam and heads is 170 hp ish? any ways , its quick enuff for me at this point , i only take it out and beat on it when i get the urge, and never on a hot day,it spends most of the time in my garage , which i think is a good thing ,

i sacrifice hondas