Broken bolt/water neck. Help.
#1
Broken bolt/water neck. Help.
Spent some money and recieved a new set of injectors, went to remove water neck from manifold and broke the bolt head off. Used an easy out tool and broke that off in the bolt. Now I cant drill down any more because the remover tool is made out of hardend metal....Any advice ? Any trick ? Would it be incredibly unwise to run w/o thermostat and just seal that sucker down ? I still have one bolt hole thats good and clean.
Who knew that replacing the injectors would lead to this mess. Man!!
Mike.
Who knew that replacing the injectors would lead to this mess. Man!!
Mike.
Last edited by Z28Mike; 06-25-2006 at 10:37 PM.
#3
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
is it flush, or below? Or do you have a bit sticking up?
I had that happen with my stock manifold, I drilled it out, and re-tapped it. I'd do that if you can, use a carbide drill bit, it's hard enough to drill through your EZ-out.
There's also a trick to disolving iron, without harming aluminum... Chemical / electrical reaction. I forget it now, but search on that.
I had that happen with my stock manifold, I drilled it out, and re-tapped it. I'd do that if you can, use a carbide drill bit, it's hard enough to drill through your EZ-out.
There's also a trick to disolving iron, without harming aluminum... Chemical / electrical reaction. I forget it now, but search on that.
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Car: Tree Huggers
Engine: Do Not
Transmission: Appreciate Me.
Find someone good with a welder.
The term for the electrical 'trick' is electrolysis. (You can do all sorts of things with that.) Anodize it and you have a solution and a nice finish.
The term for the electrical 'trick' is electrolysis. (You can do all sorts of things with that.) Anodize it and you have a solution and a nice finish.
#5
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I thought there was a chemical involved in the electrolysis as well... Aluminum sulfate or something? This makes it dissolve the ferrous, even if it's not rusted (as I would do with my electrolysis rust removing bath...)
#6
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Car: Tree Huggers
Engine: Do Not
Transmission: Appreciate Me.
It's usually some sort of acid based electrolyte iirc. You can actually make a patina, plate, add rust, etc. with electrolysis depending on what you are using for metal, anode and cathode etc.
'Slick' is the term I've heard before when relaying some of that info. 'Geek' or 'Nerd' has come up a time or three as well... but I usually point them in Vader's or RB's direction then.
There used to be a site that showed how to coat steel with SS electrolytically. Wish I still had the link. Good read iirc.
'Slick' is the term I've heard before when relaying some of that info. 'Geek' or 'Nerd' has come up a time or three as well... but I usually point them in Vader's or RB's direction then.
There used to be a site that showed how to coat steel with SS electrolytically. Wish I still had the link. Good read iirc.
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#9
Thanks for your help guys, I spent about an hour on it last night with a dremel and a diamond tip bit. Ate it out good. On another note while replacing my injectors last night I noticed that a vacuum hose coming off the charcoal container was cut all the way through, it looks like it had been routed behind the alternator. I looked at the autozone vaccum diagram and it didnt help. All it showed for the hose was a dotted line going to nowhere. Im grasping for straws gentlemen. Ive relpaced my fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, injectors, tps, egr, O2, and my car is still running like crap.
PUUURs Like a kitten at Idle. Runs like a 3 legged dog whenever some load is aplied. Between 2200-2600 rpm the engine seems to bog/not fire, after 2600 rpms the engine runs ok,,,,but when I get on it kinda heavy itll do the same thing it was doing at 2200-2600 rpms,,,,,kinda bog down.
PUUURs Like a kitten at Idle. Runs like a 3 legged dog whenever some load is aplied. Between 2200-2600 rpm the engine seems to bog/not fire, after 2600 rpms the engine runs ok,,,,but when I get on it kinda heavy itll do the same thing it was doing at 2200-2600 rpms,,,,,kinda bog down.
#10
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
hmm, if you're fishing for help on those problems, you'll have to cough up more info on your car. Year, induction, etc etc etc.
Got the bolt out though eh? Right on.
Got the bolt out though eh? Right on.
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Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: yep the bolt is gone
pulling any codes ?
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Sucks, i was just trying to replace my thremo and the damn bolts wernt coming off gave it a lil elbow and snap the bolt head came off what should i buy at the store, i got a drill, like a carbide maybe? i dont have ez out but i dont think i wana try it, whut size should i get ?? ty for help ahead of time
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Sucks, i was just trying to replace my thremo and the damn bolts wernt coming off gave it a lil elbow and snap the bolt head came off what should i buy at the store, i got a drill, like a carbide maybe? i dont have ez out but i dont think i wana try it, whut size should i get ?? ty for help ahead of time
Last edited by rough; 09-08-2007 at 03:37 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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