I just built a 383 with Trickflow heads and a Comp 230/236 .544/.555 112 LSA cam.

Originally I wasn't running a PCV valve (two breathers on one cover and nothing on the other) and think it is defenitly best to do so now. I just grabbed a valve from the isle at Autozone but wondered if a random guess might be way off. I want to have the correct one before I put a hole in my cover.
I'm going to "T" it in with the brake booster line.

With no baffels I'll have a ton of oil in my intake but it must be for the best...

 

i'd get a baffled gasket for the PCV valve, i know big end products makes one. also, you shouldnt "T" it with the brake booster as the PCV valve is a constant vacuum loss and can upset brakes, since the vacuum might not always be there.

 

bump

Anyone else have anything to add about what PCV valve to use or about "T"ing it with the brake booster?

 

Just get a stock replacement PCV valve with the proper gromet. Another NO to T ing in with the brake booster line. People will come in here saying they've done it with no ill effects but I've tried it and it does make the pedal harder.

 

My valve covers had a 1.25" hole on each cover, with a baffle below it. I installed the covers so the holes were forward (they are not in the center, but somewhat offset).
Each cover, I put in a grommet, 1.25"->.75" IIRC. Passenger side got a cool looking K&N filter, drivers side got a stock style PCV, and some 3/8" rubber line, going to the front base of my q-jet carb.

If you have no big vacuum lines ports on the carb, you can use a smaller line, I think it'd do the same thing, then just run a small vacuum line to a PCV with a smaller nipple on it. Or you can drill your intake manifold, and put a fitting in. Remember, you're adding a bunch more airflow, at idle, and at all RPMs, so you'll have to re-adjust idle speed, and probably jet richer (you're getting more air, so...)
It'll probably help you get more air to your carb at idle, so you don't have to keep the plates wayyyy open to get it to idle

 

Definately run the brake booster on a seperate line.

The PCV line will never have enough vac to operate the booster properly since all its doing is sucking air from the crankcase.

Hook the booster directly to manifold vac, dont use any T's at all on that line, just for safety's sake. You dont want to loose brakes because some stupid T broke or whatever else is running on the line broke and it starts sucking air!

 

Where can I get a baffle at Steve??

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. I have one more vacuum port on my manifold (this is a HSR btw, no carb...yet) but putting a fitting there kind of prevents me from rotation my dizzy so I was looking for a way around it.

I want to run a baffled grommet but I honestly think it would be too tall and would hit my rockers. Its pretty close as it even with my taller valve covers.

Google search baffled grommet 91CamaroRS305

 

You'll find that your Power brakes work the same reguardless of whether you "T"
into the PB vacuum supply line or somewhere else on the intake manifold.
The amount of available manifold vacuum will be the same either way.

Be sure you're running enough initial timing at idle to maximize available manifold vacuum. Give it as much initial timing as the starter will take.

I've run my PCV sourced off the PB vacuum line ("T'ed") using much bigger cams than you're using ( less available manifold vacuum) and still had operational brakes. I'v tried it both ways. Same result.

Be sure your vacuum hose connections are not leaking vacuum. You'd be amazed what a few hose clamps can do.

You can install a common clear plastic type paper element fuel filter in the PCV line to catch any oil that might travel up the PCV hose and get in the intake manifold. When/if the filter/oil trap gets full, replace it, or drill a small hole in the case and drain out the oil periodicly.

 

best would be an inline PCV "Oil Separator"

 

any local speed shop should be able to order it for you

 

Where do i get one of those at?? Looks nifty and useful if it isnt to much moola

 

You can find it on this page HillBank MotorSports

 

WOW $70.....I think I will try and make one for that price. Probably rig something up with an old inline glass fuel filter ran verticle to let the oil settle bac down into the thing.....wow $70, seems like a rip off.

 

BEWARE, this thing isn't a cure-all. I have virtually no blowby (running a breather on ONLY ONE valvecover, no PCV system, it does not smoke at all even on rev, and it doesnt push the dipstick out or anything), yet my PCV system was sucking monster oil. My manifold vacuum even sucks cause my cam is pretty lumpy.

I tried moving the lines around to no avail. This part kept a lot of the oil out, but not all of it. I still wound out with 2 fouled plugs and oil-soaked intake ports. Killed my power and kept me constantly chasing misfires.

Many people have used these with success, even on boosted motors where blowby is a bigger concern, but I think I'm one of the rare ones that for no apparent reason, it didn't work. Just figured I'd forewarn.

 

Understood Nixon1, I just need something to suck the pressure out, on a heavy rev the space behind my car gets all foggy cause of blow-by

 

I might take a look at the fuel filter idea.

Well, I'd rather "T" it into the brake booster for cleanliness. Anyone else care to commet? If I don't have enough brakes and don't crash the car I'm only out a section of 3/8" hose.

 

Thats sounds like a good idea, but I don't have enough vacuum because of the cam I am running to use power brakes.....hence why I switched over to a manual master cylinder.

 

I don't like the idea of putting a "T" into the same line as the brake booster. Forget vacuum, it's the thought of intentionally passing a lot of oil vapors into the same line as the brake booster. How long do you think it would take before that oil starts to collect inside the booster and possibly cause problems? I don't know but I've never felt the need to find out.

Maybe drill and tap somewhere else on the intake to put in a fitting? It's just aluminum, fer' cryin' out loud! Not like there aren't a million places you could put it on a StealthRam.

Baffled grommets aren't as good as a factory-style baffle in the valve cover. Much better than non-baffled grommets, but not near as good as the factory-style solution. Both the factory baffle and the baffled grommet will clear MOST rockers arms. Because of where they are located in the valve cover they fit BETWEEN the rocker arms, not above them.

 

My whole situation with putting a baffle in my V/C is that there is no room between the poly locks and the V/C roof, and the holes in the V/C are right about the rocker studs....so I need an alternate solution.

 

As far as the oil in the booster...since the vacuum pulls away from the booster I don't think you would ever see oil in the booster.

 

Since there is 2 of these threads I will post this here for those that are lookign thru this one only. It was some idea I came up with that seems to work.

I used a GM power brake filter (which us designed to keep fluid from going either into the engine or booster) with some 3/8" emissions hose to the PCV. Figure I get the addition of a way to vent crankcase pressure AND a filter to somewhat keep oil out of the engine. I still intend to install baffles, BUT until I can do so I need a way to get the pressure out of the engine and reduce the ill effects of crankcase pressure.

Here are some pics, I hooked it up to the nipple where the brake booster hose would go to, but since I have manual brakes I don't need the hook up.

Pic 1


Pic 2


I apologize for the crappy pics, it was taken on a camera phone. I will get better pics when I can.

BTW it was NAPA part 675-5136.

 

pretty slick

 

mike...purchase a baffled PCV grommet from a speed shop. or when you head down here we can order you one the same way.

 

i will get one when i have money to spend....the parts were free today and i needed something for this weekend....going Sunday to GLD, you free to come out??

 

Back from the dead. Can anyone else comment on what pcv valve would be good for my custom motor. I know there are differences and I've read that a wrong valve can cause problems.

I plan to try a baffled grommet and throw a glass filter inline with it.

I would also like some more opinions on "t"ing it into the brake booster...

 

Damon gave a good reason why not to do it and I agree with him. On my trucks 383 I use a PCV valve with a lower operating range (vacuum) then stock. It's been a long time since I put it in and I dont quite rememer the formula for figuring what valve is needed. You can look at the bottem of the valve and there is a number stamped on it example 6.5. This means It operates to 6.5in of vacuum. If you cam is fairly nasty you may want a 4.5 since it will operate with lower vacuum.