what all could it be?
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Chickasha, Oklahoma (central OK)
Car: 90 mustang LX
Engine: 5.0-302
Transmission: t-5
Axle/Gears: 8.8 w/3.08's with a trac-lock
what all could it be?
i am going to buy a 91 rs camaro with a 305, it doesn't smoke at start-up but after it sets probably a minute it puts out blue smoke, i figure it probably has bad rings but, i have thought about putting some sea-foam or GM top-end cleaner or whatever it is in it. anyways they say it loses alot of power after driving a while, so i figure it might also need head gaskets, but i also have some other thoughts of why, anyways what all could it be?
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 580
Likes: 0
From: CHICAGO
Car: 89 FORMULA 350
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 BOLT/ 3.27 GEARS
It could be a number of things adding up to make it run bad. But overall it sounds like the motor could use a rebuild. I would stray away from this car. But if the price is right... Go for it!
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Chickasha, Oklahoma (central OK)
Car: 90 mustang LX
Engine: 5.0-302
Transmission: t-5
Axle/Gears: 8.8 w/3.08's with a trac-lock
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Chickasha, Oklahoma (central OK)
Car: 90 mustang LX
Engine: 5.0-302
Transmission: t-5
Axle/Gears: 8.8 w/3.08's with a trac-lock
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Chickasha, Oklahoma (central OK)
Car: 90 mustang LX
Engine: 5.0-302
Transmission: t-5
Axle/Gears: 8.8 w/3.08's with a trac-lock
Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
From: buffalo
Car: 85 camaro
Engine: 327
Transmission: 350, 6200 stall, w/ brake
Axle/Gears: soon to be strange 5.14
some times after you rebuild the heads, its only worse because now youve boosted the compression up. if your going to pull the heads off, better be safe and go after those rings as well
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,003
Likes: 2,486
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Buy the car if you really want it.
Change the valve guide seals, that will most likely fix the oil burning problem.
The usual reason for "losing power" when the car heats up, is that the intake air temp sensor reports very hot air to the ECM, which then cuts back both fuel and timing. Simply relocating the IAT sensor often makes a DRASTIC difference to this behavior.
Don't worry about head gaskets, at least nothing you've said about the car so far, has ANYTHING WHATSOEVER to do with those being defective.
Change the valve guide seals, that will most likely fix the oil burning problem.
The usual reason for "losing power" when the car heats up, is that the intake air temp sensor reports very hot air to the ECM, which then cuts back both fuel and timing. Simply relocating the IAT sensor often makes a DRASTIC difference to this behavior.
Don't worry about head gaskets, at least nothing you've said about the car so far, has ANYTHING WHATSOEVER to do with those being defective.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Chickasha, Oklahoma (central OK)
Car: 90 mustang LX
Engine: 5.0-302
Transmission: t-5
Axle/Gears: 8.8 w/3.08's with a trac-lock
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Chickasha, Oklahoma (central OK)
Car: 90 mustang LX
Engine: 5.0-302
Transmission: t-5
Axle/Gears: 8.8 w/3.08's with a trac-lock
Buy the car if you really want it.
Change the valve guide seals, that will most likely fix the oil burning problem.
The usual reason for "losing power" when the car heats up, is that the intake air temp sensor reports very hot air to the ECM, which then cuts back both fuel and timing. Simply relocating the IAT sensor often makes a DRASTIC difference to this behavior.
Don't worry about head gaskets, at least nothing you've said about the car so far, has ANYTHING WHATSOEVER to do with those being defective.
Change the valve guide seals, that will most likely fix the oil burning problem.
The usual reason for "losing power" when the car heats up, is that the intake air temp sensor reports very hot air to the ECM, which then cuts back both fuel and timing. Simply relocating the IAT sensor often makes a DRASTIC difference to this behavior.
Don't worry about head gaskets, at least nothing you've said about the car so far, has ANYTHING WHATSOEVER to do with those being defective.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,812
Likes: 0
From: 62656
Car: 1991 S10 pickup 2700lbs
Engine: 4.3L Z TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 7.625"
if it only puffs blue for a couple seconds or so and thne is perfectly fine then really i would not evne worry about it, this is an extremely common occurance on highermileage engines, if you pay attention out in public watching older chevies being started up you will find that at least half of them do this, or more, nothing out of the ordinary unless its a documented lower miles vehicle taken VERY well care of,
cold air being sucked into the intake is the best for performance,
not hot
cold is more dense and holds more fuel charge
and there also happened to be more oxygen in the denser air- than equal volume of warmer air
basic physics
this is why dual snorkel air intake systems were made and ram air and so forth,
good luck
cold air being sucked into the intake is the best for performance,
not hot
cold is more dense and holds more fuel charge
and there also happened to be more oxygen in the denser air- than equal volume of warmer air
basic physics
this is why dual snorkel air intake systems were made and ram air and so forth,
good luck
Last edited by Randy82WS7; Aug 21, 2006 at 02:56 PM.






