Tech / General Engine Is your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!

Whats better for a street car single or dual manifold

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-05-2006, 03:48 PM
  #1  
Supreme Member

Thread Starter
 
84 z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 1,801
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
Car: 1984 z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 4.11
Whats better for a street car single or dual manifold

Whats the intake to use on the street. single or dual plane manifold.
My 355 power band is 2500 to 6500 with a 3000 stall.
Give me some of your input on what to use.
Old 10-05-2006, 04:10 PM
  #2  
TGO Supporter

 
Air_Adam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Posts: 9,067
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
It really depends on the manifold and the engine, as well as the rest of the car's setup (What trans? What rear end gears?). I've used both styles on my 350 and both were perfectly streetable.

Now, that said, a dual plane intake manifold is generally better suited for use on the street, as they work better at low to mid-range RPMs. Single plane intakes are generally designed around all out racing and high RPMs, with little concern for low speed driveability. But there are single planes out there that seem to work just fine on the street. I had an Edelbrock Torker, which is a single plane, on my 350 for quite a while and I liked it. Had lots of power at all RPM, but the Performer RPM I replaced it with seemed to be somewhat better at all RPM over the Toker (though to be fair, the Torker is a 40 year old design).

What exactly is your combo? Whats your engine build, your trans, your rear gears...?
Old 10-05-2006, 06:17 PM
  #3  
Member
 
ROCITUP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: WILMINGTON (L.A.) ,CA
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
YOU CAN ALWAYS RUN A DUAL PLANE INTAKE AND GRIND THE DIVIDE DOWN....OL' SCHOOL TIP. BUT DUAL PLANES OFTEN CREATE FASTER VELOCITY INTAKE CHARGE......HELPS THE ENGINE PUMP AIR IN/OUT FASTER.
Old 10-05-2006, 08:09 PM
  #4  
Member
 
sixpackmtrspts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: upland, ca
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
the edelbrock performer rpm air gap is a great manifold to use.
Old 10-06-2006, 08:58 AM
  #5  
Supreme Member

Thread Starter
 
84 z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 1,801
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
Car: 1984 z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 4.11
you can check out my engine combo on a thread I just posted its for the horsepower est.
for a tranny i have a new 700r4 with a 3000 stall
and a 10 bolt with 4.10 gears.
Old 10-06-2006, 01:32 PM
  #6  
Member
 
AtomicTruck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Doghouse
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: Pro Stadium Tough Truck
Engine: Buick V6 272 cu in
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: Broken most of the time
a 3000 stall converter is not really a "street" converter. If you are really going to use that converter you might as well use the single plane intake. Most single plane intakes will surpass dual plane at about 3600 rpm. (there are exceptions to this so don't crucify me on this)

Are you really planning on driving around town between 3000 rpm and ??? rpm. The higher the stall the less efficient it is and the more heat it will produce. You will need a very good tranny cooler to keep form melting it down.
Old 10-09-2006, 08:24 AM
  #7  
Supreme Member

Thread Starter
 
84 z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 1,801
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
Car: 1984 z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 4.11
the cam i have is a lunati bracket master II cam so i had to run the 3000 stall converter. And right now I have a weiand stealth manifold on it and its for idle to 7000rpm. Im just wondering if thats good enough for the motor or should i get something better. I just dont want it to idle like crap but still have a good power band.
Old 10-09-2006, 09:20 AM
  #8  
Member
 
AtomicTruck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Doghouse
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: Pro Stadium Tough Truck
Engine: Buick V6 272 cu in
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: Broken most of the time
The more duration you have, the worse (lopy-ity-lope) the idle. What are your cam specs? If you have a wild cam it will not idle at low rpm...
Old 10-09-2006, 10:30 AM
  #9  
Supreme Member

Thread Starter
 
84 z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 1,801
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
Car: 1984 z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 4.11
.

Last edited by 84 z28; 01-30-2011 at 07:27 PM.
Old 10-09-2006, 04:33 PM
  #10  
Supreme Member

iTrader: (1)
 
Sonix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
That's not a street car motor build, that's a track build - which would probably benefit from a high rise single plane like the victor JR.

The performer RPM is a high rise dual plane, best of both worlds (explains it's insane success). It would probably work ok, but you'd suffer a tad on power at the top end.
That's a top end motor, so your low end is going to be poor no matter what manifold you choose, might as well match it to the motor - single plane.
Old 10-09-2006, 05:31 PM
  #11  
Member
 
rjt76's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: maine
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: 1986 iroc z
Engine: vortec 383
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 moser 12 bolt true trac
Is this a joke? you are in big trouble with that cam on the street let alone the intake.
Old 10-09-2006, 06:33 PM
  #12  
Moderator

iTrader: (14)
 
five7kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Littleton, CO USA
Posts: 43,169
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes on 34 Posts
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
"advertised dur at .050" is a contradiction in terms. It's either the advertised duration, or the .050" duration (which is actually the duration from .050" lift to .050" lift). I suspect it's advertised, and that it's an old-school grind with a low LSA. Probably means that idle quality will be near-nil, and street manners questionable at best. And, the dual plane will give you the best idle quality and street manners possible.

The Stealth and RPM are competing for the same market. If you have one, getting the other will not represent an improvement.

On the other hand, there appears to be those in this discussion that don't understand stall speed. Having a converter that stalls at 3000 RPMs does not mean that the engine is always above 3000 RPMs. A 3000 stall converter actually sounds like a good match for that cam and the Stealth intake.
Old 10-09-2006, 07:09 PM
  #13  
Supreme Member

 
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,111
Received 52 Likes on 49 Posts
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Consider that Lunati .515" cam a "hot street racer" cam.
I believe its 246@.050" ground on 108 LSA.
Degree the cam in and advance it to a 102 intake C/L.
That would be 6deg adv from "straight up"
Will need a minimum of a 3000stall and the 4.10's.
Will need a modified ignition advance curve ith lots of initial advacne at idle. Might as well lock out the mechanical advance. 36 @idle 36 at high rpm.
retain the vacuum advance and use it too.
I'd use the dual plane with a split spacer. Will have a rough-racy idle at about 900rpm. Will drive fine on the street once warmed up. Don;t expect good fuel mileage.
Needs a 10:1 cr or more.

Degreeing in the cam and verifying the intake C/L is critical to making it work well on a street car.

I searched back in your other posts and noticed you're useing the Dart Iron Eagle 180's.
Out of the box they are a very well manufactured head, but don't flow worth a $%#^. Intake flow is a modest 208 cfm @28". Dart advertizes 222. Not even close.
But can be made into a real good cylinder head with full porting. I'm in the middle of doing a set of these now. Expecting 250+cfm and a finished port size of 190cc's +/-. The valve guide boss is the biggest obstical to good flow with these heads. Exhaust port is the same. Mostly guide boss profiling. the rest of the port is good and only needs cleanup and maybe raise the port roof a little to match a 1205 felpro gasket.
Seems these heads were designed/intended to be ported in the first place.
Follow these mods and you'll have a rockin' street racer.
You have the right intake manifold. A 1" split spacer like the HVH Super Sucker for dual planes is recommended.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 10-09-2006 at 07:39 PM.
Old 10-09-2006, 07:29 PM
  #14  
Member
 
Ironmahn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bucyrus, Ohio
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Originally Posted by 84 z28
the cam i have is a lunati bracket master II cam so i had to run the 3000 stall converter. And right now I have a weiand stealth manifold on it and its for idle to 7000rpm. Im just wondering if thats good enough for the motor or should i get something better.
I hope you are running some good heads with that combo, if so your good to go... and have fun!!
Old 10-10-2006, 09:02 AM
  #15  
Supreme Member

Thread Starter
 
84 z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 1,801
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
Car: 1984 z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 4.11
Can you give me a part# for that split spacer your talking about so I can see it. i was just about to get a barry grant 1 inch combo spacer is the a big diff ?
----------
How do you figure im in big trouble ?? I wanted a small block pushing 400 hp and thats about what I got.

Last edited by 84 z28; 10-10-2006 at 09:05 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 10-11-2006, 02:56 PM
  #16  
Supreme Member

 
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,111
Received 52 Likes on 49 Posts
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
ST4150-2


1” tall Street Sweeper Spacer for 4150 series carburetors. Fits Performer and Stealth manifolds

N/A

N/A


$112.00

ST4150-4


1” tall Street Sweeper on dual plane intakes. Fits Performer RPM, Brodix HV 1016, Dart Kool Kan, and RPM Air Gap manifolds

N/A

N/A


$112.00
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
onefreakz
Exhaust
12
05-14-2018 12:15 PM
CRFred
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
9
02-07-2016 11:39 PM
Reborn756
Tech / General Engine
142
09-04-2015 03:42 AM
transaero
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
2
08-31-2015 01:14 AM
z28addict8490
Interior
6
08-07-2015 08:48 PM



Quick Reply: Whats better for a street car single or dual manifold



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:37 PM.