Does anyone know, if I pull my motor mount bolts and lift the engine will it go high enough, before the tranny hits the tunnel, so that I can pull the pan to put a new pump in it. Thanks for any replies.

 

The consensus is yes. You'll probably want to remove the dist as well, so it doesn't crunch on the firewall.
I however, couldn't make it happen, my T10 bellhousing hit the tunnel, and I was jacking up the car, long before I could remove my pan. Apparently you can also rotate the engine over so the throws are "up", making this more possible as well.
Let me know if you figure out a way to make it happen, I think i'm going to be replacing my pan soon.

 

Thanks for the input. I may also pull the tranny crossmember and lower the tranny to make more room. The dizzy is already out of it. I am going to try it tomorrow and get ready for edgewater on saturday.

 

you mean remove the trans altogether?

Bit of a hassle - remove driveshaft, remove torque arm mount, shifter, reinstall alignment is brutal, etc...
oh, mostly though, the motors going to want to rock backwards (read: fall), if you remove the tranny. So if the tranny isn't there, and you remove the motor mount bolts to jack it up, you've got that 600lb engine balancing on that 2" hydraulic jack pad. That would make me soil myself, if I was under the car jacking it up.

 

I unbolted my motor mounts and lifted the engine a bit to replace my pump and pan. When I did this I had to rotate the motor a little so the pan would clear the crank in the front. I also agree with removing the dizzy.

 

Before you start, if your engine has the 1:30 o'clock timing tab, point the timing mark on the harmonic balancer straight down. This will put the balancing weights up in the block. Not doing this simple step is what makes people pull their hair out.

 

From what I recall, on the T-5 you can't pull the pan with the motor and the tranny in the car. Automatics I think you can.

 

Thanks for the topic, because Im in the same boat.
I accidently damaged my pan with a jack, and I fear
my crank assembly will hit the damaged pan.

1989 Trans AM.. L98 w/ 700r4..

Basically for me.. If I understand correctly, are the
steps I should take?? Feel free to add

1. Place car on jack stands

2. Remove Distributor

3. Unbolt left/right motor mount bolts

4. Remove Y-pipe, and let the exhaust dangle

5. Rotate motor till the harmonic balancer "mark
line" is facing down to the floor, so the counter
weights do not interfere with pan removal

6. Use 2x4 and jack and slowly jack engine up
using the balancer or crank pulley.

7. Remove pan /Replace in same fashion.

Will the oil pump interfere? Or can I get around
that? Again, Its a L98 car with 700-r4 tranny

 

If the pan & pump are fairly stock it won't be a problem. Just lower the back of the pan a lot before trying to pull it back.
That's about all there is to it. Most folks that can't get them off don't realize that the big balancer weights fighting them can be rotated up in the block. The two rods on the crank throw fit thru the opening in the front of the pan much easier.
Anyway, just be glad it isn't a "pre-1970" engine. The front of the oil pan has an even smaller opening. (showing his age)

 

The car has the stock pan, I have a aftermarket Y-pipe
and headers.. The Y-pipe is easily removable in 5-10mins..

Also, The car has a stock oil pump, nothing special. So Its not necessary to remove the pump with the oil pan hanging? That is comforting news!

Im kind of glad I dented my pan, My rear seal was
leaking.. I did a quick job of sealing the pan up when I built the motor,and It sat for a long time.. which most likley promoted the leak.

Ill post up my results tommarow, Thanks !!

 

It is done and it cleared great. No problems. I did not even have to pull the filter or headers. Only the starter.

 

I love you

I had to walk away due to a stubborn Y-pipe
(see more in the Exhaust Forum) I walked away
from the job tonight.. Tommarow I will get it done.

Where did u position the balancer marker?
straight down correct? I positioned mine at
the floor.

Thanks again for treading the way!!!

 

no prob. i pointed mine to the floor as well. it is not to bad really. luckily i have open headers, so no y-pipe to deal with.

 

Ah yes! The awesome tone of open headers!

Anytime I hear that, It reminds of the lake.. all the
jet boats zippin' around

Im am very relieved that you got it done without a
hassle and you installed a new oil pump! I just need
to swap the damaged pan with a new one.. Which
should be simple enough.

Was it tough sealing the pan up from underneath?
Anything else trouble you?

 

No, luckily I have a one piece oil pan gasket, which is what you should have if you block is newer than an 87, and it stayed on the block. Also, how many miles are on your motor, You may want to consider putting a new pump and pickup in it while you are there. It will ease your mind. Just dont use a high volume with a stock pan.

 

Okay, follow along closely. The new pump is in and it still will not prime. I have talked to several other people today and they all told me the same thing. Under the rear main cap there is four holes. Two are for the main bolts and one is for the pump drive shaft. The forth is supposed to have a plug in it from the factory and when machine shops work on the motors they have to pull these out just like the rest of the plugs. I have been told that the way mine is acting, it sounds like the machine shop did not put this plug back in. I am going to pull the pan AGAIN to see if it is in there. There is also a chance it is either to deep or to shallow. Does anyone know what I am talking about and if so, do you know how deep this has to be in the block. I am going to run a set of calipers down in some of the other blocks I have laying around but I did not know if someone had an exact distance. Thanks

 

Thanks for your concern, But there is 9.8 miles exactly on
the crank. The motor is freshly rebuilt, and It has optimum
oil pressure..

Im sorry, I dont have any details about the oil pump
shaft and the distance it travels.. I didnt install my
pump, I had a knowledgable friend do it.

Best of Luck, hope you get it figured out

 

do a search I know for a fact "sofakingdom" has posted a good picture of that plug, in the last few months. Also a description of how far down it goes.

Now, what do you mean it doesn't prime? The oil pump is submerged, it's self priming in an SBC application.

 

if you fire it or spin it with a drill there is no pressure on the gauge or at the filter. none at the rockers either.

 

Hopefully someone can shine some light on
your difficulties, Ive never had a problem with
oil pressure in my car.. Ive never had to trouble shoot oil pump issues before.

On the Happier note, I thank everyone for
the great Info and especially 355GTA for
diving in and providing some input on
my oil pan woes..

My oil pan came out very easy, I didnt
have to wrestle with it or fight it at all.
Also, Supervisor42.. You saved us alot
of trouble with that tip..

I love you for it !!

 

Well, i figured it out and fixed the problem. It was the plug under the rear main. It was less then a 1/4 of the way in. I ran it in and buttoned it back up AGAIN and ran the drill on it and she took off to 60 psi. VERY NICE. Thanks for all the help.

 

Sure hope you're female.

I've learned a lot of lessons the hard way.
It's only humane to keep others from needless wailing & gnashing of teeth.

 

This weekend I went to change my pan and this thread was a good heads up while working on it. I almost finished, but I had ordered the wrong oil pickup. The universal 350 (10067353) comes with the bigger 3/4" oil pickup, if anyone cares.

I just wanted to add that I have a T5, and while I had to jack the engine up quite a bit 5"+, I WAS able to get the pan out and install a 6qt Moroso. Also don't forget to rotate the timing mark down to get the balance weights out of the way as mentioned earlier.

 

Awesome !!

Im glad the thread was a help, as it was to
me at the time. Its funny, That was awhile ago..

9.8miles on my motor!
Im just about to hit 1200 now

Good luck!

 

i replaced my oilpan by jacking the motor up as well as jacking the tranny up a little bit. I have a 5 speed so yes u can take it out without having to remove the whole motor. It took a little under 4 hours to do it all

 

Motto: If you want to know the easiest way to do something, ask the laziest guy.
For some reason, I seem to have a lot of answers...

 

Sorry to bump this from the dead, but I have done all the steps and my pan still isn't coming out. I am getting very frustrated. Anything I can do? This is the 4th day and the oil pan still isn't out.

 

You do have the torque converter cover off right?
You did actually pull the dizzy and starter right?
Unless there is something unusual about the front crossmember, the oil pan and pump, or the "tunnel" that the tranny is in it should come out.
You could try unbolting the transmission mount and raising the rear of transmission but be carefull, the engine/trans assembly will be only supported by 2 points and could "flop" over to the side.

 

I didnt have to remove the starter, though it might help.

Again, mine too was hitting the teeth of the flexplate
slightly, and I had to work it out with some persistance.

How much does it need to be drop/pulled down for
it to clear the teeth of the flexplate?

If it was anything like mine, I thought it was impossible..

But it wasnt