82 TA LG4. No start condition. I'm baffled. I have spark and gas. I have spark, checked the coil, ignition module, pickup, distributor cap. I have gas getting into carb (see it spray in when open the butterfly and hit the throttle). but it just cranks and doesn't start.

What else should I be looking for. I just don't get it. I have everything I need to start. Gas, spark and the choke closes fully when it attempts to start cold.

Please any advice on where to go next?

Thanks
Dean

 

You've checked the spark, as in with a spark tester? Or crank it over with a plug removed, holding the plug to the block, and watch for a visible spark?

Gas was easy to test, you've got it, moving on.
Did you flood the car? I mean, if you haven't changed anything on the car since you last drove it....

The only other thing is timing, spark and valve. Timing chain failure, dist bolt slipped, etc.
So, fess up, what did you do to it recently?

 

Thanks for the reply. Yes tested spark with spark tester and it is strong.

Gas is visible squirting in the carb when I open the butterfly and hit the throttle.

Honestly the only thing I did was reconnect a disconnected vacuum hose and it stopped running. I disconnected that same hose but it will not run still.

how can i check timing chain, valve train, etc.?

thanks

 

Timing chain check - On second thought, if you're getting spark, then your distributor is moving, so that means your cam is moving, and your timing chain couldn't have just disappeared sorta thing.
You can remove a/both valve covers, and get someone to crank over the motor. All rockers should be moving and whatnot. But since you're getting spark, this is meaningless.

It may have jumped a tooth or more on the timing chain though. Try removing the #1 spark plug, put your finger in the hole, and get someone to rotate the motor over with a 5/8" socket on the balancer bolt. You should feel the puff of air as it's getting up to TDC firing for #1. So every 2nd time going up to the timing mark, you should feel the puff of air. You'll start to feel it at about 30* before TDC, and it'll keep up blowing air, until 0*

If it's wayyy late, that might explain it.

You could also rotate the motor over to TDC #1 firing (feel the puff of air, then keep going until you get to 0* on the balancer), then pop off the distributor cap, and make sure the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire.

These probably aren't the best ways to check those things, i've never had a problem like that though. Maybe someone else will post with an easier way to check that, or something else to check.

 

The problem was the plugs! can you believe it!

I have no idea why but someone recommended I try it and it was the problem. Thanks for all your help.

SONIX - I have one final question for you regarding the choke. When it is cold, and I depress the accelelrator the choke snaps shut like it should. Problem now is that as it warms up it opens slowly and if I hit the accelerator the choke snaps back closed. Why is this happening? I cleaned the whole area with a full can of carb cleaner and it is still doing it. How exactly does the electric choke work on this car?

Thanks

 

plugs? what was wrong with them?

well, make sure the wire is connected to the choke thermostat. Also make sure it's got 12V while the car is running.

If it snaps shut, that's a good thing, means the thermostat is adjusted. It should crack open a tad (like 3/16") when you actually fire up the engine, so it can get in a bit of air. Keeps the mixture rich.
As the engine warms up, and the electrical current goes through that wire, it'll also warm up the choke thermostat, and that releases the spring pressure, letting the counterweight (choke arm), free fall.

That's the long and short of it. So if it snaps shut, thermostat is adjusted right. Current should heat it up, and release the pressure, over a few minutes or so. Tap the throttle and it should go onto the lower steps of the fast idle.

 

There were nothing visibly wrong with the plugs. Was talking to someone who really knows LG4's. When I explained the problem, first thing they said "replace the plugs" thats the problem.

I really didn't believe but I changed them and it roared up. Honestly never would have believed it.

So if the choke doesn't fully open when the car is warm you would suspect the metal within the choke assembly? That seems to be the issue. When cold, choke snaps closed. It lazily opens as it warms and when I hit the acceleartor (after about 5 minutes running) it snaps back closed. wasnt sure if it was an adjustment or the electric choke was bad.

Thanks again

 

huh, go figure, well, plugs are cheap and easy I guess

hmm, that's weird, if it's opening lazily, the thermostat is losing it's spring force, usually due to warming up (from electricity, and radiant heat). If it snaps closed again, that makes me think it still has the spring force...?

Does it eventually open, and you can drive it around?

I think either it's not connected to an electrical source, or the choke thermostat could be dead, or it's simply out of adjustment. I know that's a total cop out of an answer, but i'm trying to visualize your problem, and why that would happen...

Come to think of it, I think mine has done that, it'll lazily open, but if I blip the throttle, sometimes it comes back on, and the idle speeds up. I just adjusted my thermostat so that the force isn't so much (ie, it will not stay on choke for as long of time), and that cured it.

Check the wire for current, then adjust the choke thermostat, slightly CW. That's my guess. Perhaps another member will have better advice.