OK, a year or so ago I started a thread asking that if I removed the wiring harness to/from the ECM/sensors would the engine still run since I have a stand-alone 70's HEI and Holley carb. The general consensus was "Yes it would". Well I removed it all from the engine bay and now I have no spark.

The wiring harness that comes through the firewall from the dash is the one that has the pink and white distributor wires in it so I do not understand why it won't start since all that is still hooked up.

This has me puzzled. Any ideas?

 

Anybody?

 

Removing the harness would cut off your ignition switch from power. Which would not let power to your starter or some fuses.

 

I didn't remove the main harness, just the harness from the ecm to the sensors. The starter works and so do all of the accessories.

I think I am just going to hook up a new wire (with ballast resistor) from the fuse block that is switched from the ignition switch and be done with it.

 

I had to do that with my carbed 355.

 

Where did you end up getting the power from (on the fuse block that is) and did your guage cluster still work?

 

There is quite a few constant powers on the fuse block like hazard's or tail lights, etc... tap into one of those. however, you will want a wire that is hot when it is selected to be with the ignition right? For that I started out with a push button starter. then after I got bored of it, I tapped into the pink and black wire from the firewall.

My gauges worked. Except the tach and speedo, but I had a mech speedo and aftermarket tach. Due to the V6 to V8 Swap.

 

no resistor needed on an HEI, and i would imagine to check for 12V+ from the pink wire first, and if not then i'd check for blown fuses.

 

Well I figured it out, I am a dummazz. The plug on the distributor cap was not plugged in all the way.

Runs now, even with the ecm harness unplugged, just as all said it would.