Well, I finally decided to ditch my 305 TBI setup and go with a 350 carbed in my 1992 camaro. I was looking at a 350 motor from a 1975 monte carlo. I don't know much about this motor, but will it be a good start for me? The guys is asking 150 bucks for it. It needs a rebuild, and a carb but everything else is there.

P.S. Not owning a truck or knowing anyone with a truck, what will be the best way to get the engine out the guys yard? The only thing we have is a van.


Thanks,

Chris

 

rent one

 

get two long, strong pieces of wood and roll it up the planks into the van

 

Well a 1975 350 will be putting out absolutely no power in stock form. That was a smogger year if I'm not mistaken. But if all you want is the block ($150 isn't a bad deal for a block) then you should be fine. Is it a two bolt or four bolt? And double check the casting numbers before you buy.

 

^^^


Even if only the bare block is salvageable, 150 isnt a bad deal at all!

 

the motor is fairly complete, just needs the carb?
We talking a minivan, or a van van?
Either way, remove seats, etc, put down a tarp, and some wood to rest the motor on. you'll need a crane to get it into the van, and out of the van at the house. You'll obviously need a motor stand too.
Maybe buddy who's selling the motor has a truck, or knows a guy with a truck. Slip him an extra $20 to bring it to you, that sort of thing. That's what I did.

Should work just fine.

 

just rent a truck for the day, get a tire and strap it down, thats waht i did when i brought my 302 ford home. it was like 30 bucks, and i got a spare tire from a tire shop. it was cheep

 

That is arguably the worst possible 350 core engine that there is. It will have 882 or 624 heads, probably a 2-barrel intake, the 929 cam, and pistons that give between 8:1 and 8¼:1 compression. Lots and lots of stuff to throw away, no point in paying for any of that.

$150 is absolute top dollar for a 350 core short block, since you'll be throwing away the heads and pistons and cam. All you're getting that you can use is the block, crank & damper, rods, some hardware, and maybe some tin if it isn't all smashed.

Check your local boneyards and see if you can do better. I usually pay $50 - $100 for that. I wouldn't buy it for $150.

 

Sorry for the late post, been very busy with school.


We are talking about a mini van, I just need a way of removing it from this guys yard because ill use my schools engine crane to take it out, and put it on the schools engine stand. What I know about the block has a 4bbl intake, I believe its a 2bolt main. I was told that the block is good because it has thicker castings. I will end up throwing away the cam, heads, and maybe the pistons. I mean it did come with 155 hp from factory, but I'm just looking for a good base.

If i could get smaller cc heads won't that bump up compression?


Thanks

 

yea, smaller cc heads would raise the cr. But chances are the cyl walls are worn, and it'll need to be bored out anyway, so that means new pistons as well.
The heads are junk for a performance standpoint, so budget on replacing them anyway.

If you can remove the rear seats and everything, lay down a tarp, maybe some plywood. Bring some blocks of wood to help stand it up. Hopefully buddy has a crane, 'cuz it'll weigh around 600lbs, fully assembled like that. The bare block itself is only like 180lbs or something, 2 people can lift that, but fully assembled, I doubt it.

 

If I do have to replace pretty much everything, wouldn't it be better to just find a cheap bare block?

If i were to do it that way, what year blocks should I look for or are any blocks good that haven't been bored out yet?


Thanks

 

Yes, that's a good idea, just nab a block.
Your local machine shop might be able to set you up with one. Maybe even pre-machined, it'll cost more, but it's a step that's done, so budget accordingly.
A block is a block is a block, long as it's not cracked, you're golden. A roller block with 1 piece RMS is probably better, it's cheaper to run a roller cam that way. Think post '1988 or so.

 

When I picked up an engine, I didn't want it in my mini van so I rented an open UHaul trailer for the day, $19. The back tail gate comes out so you can move it in on a dolly by ramps, or with an engine puller. The open top allows access for a lift or crane going in or out.

John

 

Pick up a L31 Vortec long block. They are a dime a dozen here lately. They all have OD transmissions behind them and show very little bore wear, even with tons of miles on them. You get a roller cam equipped short block and probably the best GM production iron heads ever made for the 1st generation small block.

 

I think they switched to rollers in '86.

The Vortec block isn't a bad idea. But a lot of people prefer the '69 -'80 blocks because they're "beefy". Don't know if there's any truth to this or not...

 

Thanks for all of the input,

a vortec block does sound good, and maybe the best gm production iron heads sounds very good. the L31 option does sound like a good idea, what vehicles, or casting numbers do i need to know to find a block like this?


The crappy thing is, that my dads van doesnt have a hitch for a trailer. But if I cover the carpet in the van and fold the seats, it should fit in there. The only thing is that if it is the complete block, it weighs a lot so i need a conveinent way of getting it in the back.

 

find yourself a 397010 casting number block.its a 70's 350 most of them are 4 bolt mains.i got a block rods aluminum intake 4brl carb and crank for 100 bucks.so finding 1 isnt hard at all.if your goin to be building for perfomance your most likely getting it bored anyway. 30 over(.030 a total of 4.030) is most common around here.thta with 3.48 stroke crank(stock) is a 355,a all around good motor i think.even if you bump the crank to 3.750 with 30 over is a 383.350s have 5.7 inch rods btw with a std bore of 4 inch.

in my eyes a 010 block is the way to go.

im trying to decide weather to dump more money in my tbi 305 or just build the 355 tbi up. the 355 duh!

Anthony

 

an 010 block is the "vanilla" of chev 350s. 90% of 350 blocks are 010 blocks, they are nothing special at all. I have one, it's 2 bolt mains.

The blocks were no better back in the day. If anything they're better now, due to more intelligence in the casting area. More sophisticated machines, etc etc.

A newer block will be worn less, etc.

A roller block is THE way to go. Period.
Yea, '86 is probably right, but there are some TBI blocks in the beginning that were still flat tappets, and not fully provisioned. If you shoot for '90 and above, you've got a very good chance it's setup for roller.
L31 is your best bet though. Late '90s though, not a lot of those in the JY that i've found. I mean, you could get the full block, but you'd be paying like $800, compared to the $100 for the old style. But, come to think of it, you get to keep the heads, and other parts, so you're probably money ahead actually....
Good call fast355.

 

The 010 is probably the worst block out there. The newer GM vortec blocks have alot of advanced metallurgy in them to keep them from wearing as fast. They are very strong. The Vortecs have a strong nodular iron crank in them (some ZZ3s had them), Powdered Metal Connecting rods that are stronger than the old "PINK" rods, Hypereutetic pistons, roller camshaft, 9.4:1 compression, and vortec heads.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...i-buildup.html

Your best bet for a Vortec Longblock is to ask around at local GM dealers. They get a $100.00 core charge for them, nothing more, nothing less. $200.00 in exchange for a rebuildable core always gets me a return call when one comes in to be replaced. I picked up another at a local boat dealer, they had it out at the dumpster for the scrap man due to a spun bearing.